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Tell me why I'm wrong with my fuel guage idea...

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When installing my exhaust brake, I removed the fuel filter assembly so i could get to the ECM plug. Unless I've got a one-off, my filter assembly had rubber hose going into and coming out of it. Why not just install a T fitting in the rubber hose and hook the sender up to it? I couldn't care less about the condition of my fuel filter, i just want to monitor pressure between the filter and the injection pump.



What am I missing?





PS: i'm confused because i've never seen anyone suggest this, all I see is converting 6-an to 4-bz and 25-rj and other such phrases in that foreign language you fitting experts use :)
 
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I just started looking under my hood for someplace to plumb in my fuel pressure senders. On the inlet to the filter is a test port and there is another one on the inlet to the injection pump. I don't know yet what thread these are, I'll find out in a week or so when I get my gauges in, but I'm thinking these would be good places to install senders.
 
The rubber hose that you mention does not have enough room to support a "T". Get a pipe cutter and flare out the cut end and you'll do just fine. I would suggest replacing the plain banjo at the bottom of the fuel filter and install one of Ray's tapped banjo's(1/8" NPT) and you'll now have a perfect place to run a remote sender via a $3. 95 grease hose.
 
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I agree with dmurdock, sorry dresslered, I plan on installing 1/2 line (basically identical to stock configuration) once I get some of the -8AN fittings being discussed here. Not much room is needed to install a "T", and the fuel line doesn't need as much "slack" as it has, just something to dampen the vibration of the mighty Cummins.
 
Maybe I am missing something. I understood dmurdock as wanting to take post-filter measurements. On my truck there are two metal tubes (from the injection pump and from the fuel filter) attached together by a small rubber hose. There was not enough room for a "T" in this hose unless I cut the tube. I have only a rubber hose going IN to the filter.



If you are interested in running pre-filter, by all means put a "T" there. Others have done this as well.
 
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Yeah, your both right. There is rubber on both sides of the filter, but the post filter side is more of a connector for 2 metal tubes, i was just going to cut some of the tube to give me room for more rubber lines. I'm assuming the larger fittings would be beneficial at the in and out of the filter... what about the fitting at the pump?



what all do i need to replace these 3 fittings?



oh, one more thing... when i install the longer hose from the filter to the metal pump line, i was thinking of adding enough extra to zip tye it (and the t fitting) to the firewall to isolate the vibration.
 
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That goes back to my initial recommendation: Order a set of 5 oversized banjo bolts from Ray T (there are 5 fittings if you want to install all oversized). One is even tapped with an 1/8" NPT port so that you don't need a "T" at all. An alternative is to give Brandon a call, and he will make you up a kit with -AN lines (he has a complete parts list at his website).

http://www.mypage.onemain.com/Brandon&Danelle/fuellines.htm



There are many ways to go. You can install the "T" as you have suggested and leave all the rest alone.



You can intall all of Ray's oversized banjos (giving more flow).

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=18540&highlight=banjo



You can install all new oversized fittings and fuel lines as well. TXRam is obviously going with the HUGE lines.



I was just under the impression that you wanted a very simple installation. I have all of Ray's banjo's, but have only installed the single tapped one under the fuel filter (I don't believe that I have increased flow at all with this method). I do believe that since I am running a stock engine, the OEM fuel line and fittings are adequate for my use. I may later move the pump back to the tank though.
 
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