2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Terrible brake wear

[Strasburg]

I bought a 2000 Dodge, 5. 9 Cummins used a couple years back. The truck has been great except one glaring thing and that is the brakes. I get 5,000 miles tops on the front pads. I have changed calipers twice, put a proportioning valve from the dealer in, a new master cylinder, downshift to let the engine do the braking at times and lastly put on EGR rotors and pads where I was promised three times the wear. Didn't get 3,000 miles on those! I carry between 200 and 1000 lbs in back. I do live in hilly San Francisco, but come on 5,000 miles! Suggestions? This truck is going over the bridge if I can't figure this out.

 

[DieselDoghouse]

Have you changed the rubber brake hoses?? I have learned the hard way that the OEM hoses do not have a long life - and forget checking the outside - concealed deterioration in the bore can lead to restrictions and even flapper-valve effects. Apparently the master can push fluid forward but the return flow is restricted - prevent normal brake release even when all the other components are functioning! Thought I had a stuck front caliper until the hose finally blew out. I have had a shudder when backing up and a vibration above 80 MPH both mysteriously resolved by replacing the rear brake hose from the height-valve the manifold block (note: my year has rear drums). Just my 2¢

 

[jelag]

Does your truck have rear drum brakes... There was a group of trucks made with rear drum brakes, where little or no wear was seen on the rear shoes... .

It was later shown that by installing a larger diameter wheel cylinder on the rear... . Helps...

As I understand it... the same axle is used by GM and that truck has a larger diameter wheel cylinder...

Larger wheel cylinder means more braking power is moved to the rear axle. . and with 1000 lbs in the bed this should help...

My BIL has an early truck that we changed the wheel cylinders on and more than doubled the life of the front brakes... .

One thing you have to check to make sure the fronts aren't dragging..... set the truck on a very slight decline... and let you foot off the brake pedal... if it creeps, stop it and retry... the truck should creep... if not something like a bad hose is not allowing the fluid to return to the master and fully release the brakes. .

 

[DFerverda]

Yep with everything above, Also check the rear brake shoes, they should be touching the drum. When you adjust them up correctly, your peddle will also be shorter to apply the brakes, they will work quicker.
I was going through front brake pads until i replaced and properly adjusted the rear, and readjust every other oil change.
Dirk

 

[DieselDoghouse]

JUST REMEMBER - larger wheel cylinder means bigger appetite for fluid - meaning your pedal may now head for the floor without a master cylinder change. Lotsa guys here are satisfied with the Biggest GM cylinders - but for the above I moved from 3/4 ton the 1 ton cylinders ( 15/16 —> 1+1/16 ) and have been pleased. Ain't it fun when engineering is a compromise (always)!!

 

[WilsonF]

I used the G. M. cylinders, they have been working great for about three years now.

Floyd

 

[SRath]

Most brake shops will tell you these dodges are notorious for poor front brake hose routing that leads to uneven front brake application and residual pressures that drag your front pads. The hoses are very long and take a a very roundabout path. You could at least change them or even upgrade them to stainless steel.

 

[Strasburg]

Thanks a bunch, you guys. I'm going to look into all of the above suggestions and see what happens. At least now, I have hope. I had almost given up on this thing.

 

[JGranberry]

DieselDogHouse, good info there!!

 

[TboneMan]

Don't forget, driving style/habits can also have a major impact on brake longevity, especially as heavy as these trucks are. :-laf