Thank you Kent Kroeker.... DW is really gone.

[Yo Hoot]

If they are a solid block (as opposed to square tubing), I'd say they could be cut down... I don't have a tool to cut that kind of part though.

The only way I would use square tubing is if one side was tapped for the mounting bolts. Clearance holes in the side that touches the frame. Then you would use the stock bolts to mount the blocks to the frame, installing the bolts inside the tube. Than new bolts to attach the sway bar bracket to the tapped holes in the block.

 

[SHyans]

$100 from Greg at DRC and a ten minute install... . hummmm... .

OR... ...

$35 from Skyjacker (plus shipping, $10?). Time to contemplate how to cut them down, if don't have the right tool, who does it?

Buy the tool? Goodie, you've got a new tool (not all bad!) but what are we up to now in "time" and actual "cost".

I spent about 2 minutes thinking about it... . now I'm on to the next item on the agenda of life.

I know there is always a great deal of satisfaction from fabricating/modifying our mods but I know +/- $50 wasn't worth my time to get ingenious.

Andy, buy the KORE and join Hoot in his peace of mind!

 

[Yo Hoot]

SHyans makes the right arguement in my opinion but if you decide to fabricate. .

I would do square tube something like this...

 

[SHyans]

A single bolt would make for an easier install. Tightening those connecting the block would be a bear.

 

[Yo Hoot]

A single bolt would make for an easier install. Tightening those connecting the block would be a bear.

I agree. Just don't like a bolt through something "squeezable" in a suspension application. You could put a couple of pieces of pipe inside that the bolts go through.



Solid aluminum block with two clearance holes (like the Kore blocks) is the best way.

 

[AndyMan]

I certainly don't disagree with the suggestions. They are welcome, I sincerely appreciate them. However, $110 + shipping isn't in the wallet at the moment. If I can shave $50 off the bill and net the same result, That's what I need to do. I am willing try the KORE blocks (they would be my preferred method), but I'm not 100% sure it would cure the problem. I'd like to think it would, I don't think anyone here would steer me wrong. I've just gotta be more confident before I throw more money at the problem.



This sounds like whining, but I'm only trying to back up my reasoning for taking a cheap way out. (shrug)...

 

[Yo Hoot]

Get four 1-1/2 long steel pipe plumbing nipples at Home Depot. Four longer bolts. Use the pipe fittings as risers. Might sound crazy but I think for a test it will be more than secure enough. Can't think of anything else except remove your Revtek spacers. That will effectively eliminate the need for the blocks. Sell the spacers on ebay and you will have more money.

 

[NVR FNSH]

The only way I can think of that the sway bar brackets might help with DW is if the sway bar geometry - end links to bar, bar to frame - is such from the factory (stock truck) that adding a leveling kit would cause the sway bar 'system' to bind when a 1"-2" leveling kit is installed. The bind may be enough to cause the suspension to 'bottom out' on the sway bar and transmit the jolt/bounce thru the frame instead of being absorbed by the coil springs.



If this were the case then disconnecting the sway should give the same results as installing the drop brackets.



Honestly, I'm grasping at straws with this one.....





Brian

 

[AndyMan]

Agreed on both of the above.



Thanks for the input.

 

[SHyans]

I certainly don't disagree with the suggestions. They are welcome, I sincerely appreciate them. However, $110 + shipping isn't in the wallet at the moment. If I can shave $50 off the bill and net the same result, That's what I need to do. I am willing try the KORE blocks (they would be my preferred method), but I'm not 100% sure it would cure the problem. I'd like to think it would, I don't think anyone here would steer me wrong. I've just gotta be more confident before I throw more money at the problem.



This sounds like whining, but I'm only trying to back up my reasoning for taking a cheap way out. (shrug)...

I hear ya... . I feel bad for you and want to help you solve this crap. I was banging my head against the wall with DW last fall... . went through a whole case of Depends before it was over. I still think it is going to rear it's ugly head again when the ball joints, track bar, ties rods all crap out again. The originals only lasted 3k miles. 7k on the replacements. (Knocking on wood)



Hoot- good point on the bar compressing. Valid point.

 

[Tim]

Take the spacers out and I bet the DW doesn't go away.

 

[SHyans]

Think happy thoughts.....

 

[DAWG-1]

Sway bar

This is just a coincidence that his DW went away when he installed spacers.



I have had Skyjacker 2 1/2" leveling kits on both my Dodge trucks since December of 1994 and my newest truck since Jan 2001. Never did I install a drop down bracket to get rid of DW.



Save your money and time.

 

[PHeadings]

I would have to agree with Dawg. The death wobble I have experienced was a toe in toe out wobble. Not controlled by the coils, shocks or sway bar. If your death wobble caused the steering wheel to go from side to side when it occurred then you had a toe in toe out wobble. Word has it that if you rub your Kore spacers enough the Pace system will appear and your wallet will end up missing.

 

[SHyans]

Word has it that if you rub your Kore spacers enough the Pace system will appear and your wallet will end up missing.

That's beautiful! :-laf

 

[TexBamBam]

I just switched tires and that cured mine... the MTR's did the trick for me.

 

[Yo Hoot]

This is just a coincidence that his DW went away when he installed spacers.



I have had Skyjacker 2 1/2" leveling kits on both my Dodge trucks since December of 1994 and my newest truck since Jan 2001. Never did I install a drop down bracket to get rid of DW.



Save your money and time.

Certainly save your money and time if you don't have any issues. DUH



Was it a coincidence that DW appeared when I raised the front? And now a coincidence that it stopped after modifying the stab bar height? These are the only things that occured so there isn't anything else I played with that made the change. I did a caster adjustment early on but that didn't cure it.



Kent also talked a lot about tires. He doesn't like the BFG's... neither do I. They're too soft in the sidewalls and they don't wear well. Also could be contributing factor but I made no change there.

 

[mdepot]

Looking at the pics above for homebrew spacers, it seems to me you could make something that would be more rugged (read safer) if you used a number of layers of steel plate. You would end up without having a hollow void under the bar like in the designs above. Plus you could easily adjust the height by adding or removing layers too.



Now if someone out there decides to use the idea and fabricate some, I want a free set.