Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Thanks LarryB !!

[BBenz]

Well, after getting the fateful "click-click" when trying to start my 1996 with 77,000 miles I decided that I better purchase the LarryB starter contact kit. Last night I took off the starter and upon tearing it apart found that one of the original contacts was still intact and the other was practically gone. The replacement only took a couple of minutes to do.



While under the truck though, I noticed alot of diesel on the drivers side and on the transmission. Looks like I have a fuel leak which explains my need for keeping the nose down recently. I have done some searching on here for hints and most of them say to remove the brake master cylinder. My problem with that though is the fact that I have 4 wheel ABS and cannot see anyway to remove the master cylinder without taking the lines to the ABS off.



I'm a big guy weighing about 270 pounds so getting way back on the motor is no easy task for me. Where exactly do the rubber hoses attach to so that I might have a better understanding as to what I need to do? I don't mind tinkering on the truck but might be willing to pay to avoid alot of aggravation!!

 

[illflem]

You don't need to totally remove the master cylinder, just move it towards the drivers side. It looks like it won't move but it does so easily. Just two nuts and remove the large hose to the brake booster.

On trucks with hydro-boost this doesn't apply, it isn't in the way.

I also remove the fuel filter, the rear engine lift hook and the relays on the firewall to gain access. The relays are held on by one screw under the hood seal, no need to unplug them just move to the side.

Your arms will get cut up, but the job isn't too bad. Make sure the replacement hose is diesel rated and has the correct clamps.

Good source for high quality hose and fittings is www.fostertruck.com

 

[SMorneau]

I am on my third metal return line, which is between the pump and the infamous rubber line. Both times the metal line was leaking at the weld to the mounting tabs. The first time it leaked at the front tab the second time at the back tab.



The first replacement was done by Dodge at my expense about $250. The second was done by me at about $75 worth of parts from Cummins and less than an hour and a half of my time.



The leak at the back has been coming on slow and I originally thought the back of the P-pump was leaking or the throttle shaft seal. Oh well my engine is dry again and I'm getting better at not mistaking diesel fuel for oil.

 

[BBenz]

Well, I removed the master cylinder, relays and fuel filter and am no closer to getting the rubber lines replaced. I had read on here that 2' of each hose would be required which is what I got. Crawling under the truck, it appears that 1 of the hoses is less than 1' long which I recall seeing in other posts. Is it possible that there were different vintages of hose design?



My metal lines from the tank terminate next to my 5 speed and then there are braided hoses with plastic cable wraps going up to the front side of the bell housing where the rubber hoses hook onto them. The other end of the first hose terminates behind the rear engine lift hook and the other one underneath the intake manifold as has been indicated in other posts.



All I got to say is this was one p*** poor design to route the hoses this way. I am half tempted to put the starter back in, put everything back together and take it to the local Dodge garage and let them put up with the aggravation. As noted previously, I am a big guy. While it will not be much of a problem for me to get the hoses on top, I just cannot see how I am going to get the ones on top of the bell housing. It actually looks like it would be easier to remove the inner fender well and go in from that direction.



Anybody care to chime in with how they got the hoses on the bottom side while still keeping their religion?

 

[illflem]

Just lots of working by feel, patience and swearing. Heard that it's really easy to do with the transmission removed but have never had that good fortune. Some folks say they remove the starter to get at the lower end of the hoses, but my arms aren't that long.



Hose length changes with the '97 model.



Most mechanics charge around $125 per hose for replacement. Most any mechanic who works on diesels has done this repair as it is quite common.



Another alternative is to cut the tubing back towards the tank and run hose all the way to the top end. This way you eliminate the possibility of leaks in the steel lines that SMorneau spoke of and make future replacement much easier. I cut the return line a few inches from the overflow valve to make it even easier. Run the return hose towards the front for a few inches before heading back towards the tank. It will take about 12 feet of hose if you have an extended cab. You can run the hose though plastic wiring loom to protect it.