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EGR valve and exhaust brakes

effects of altitude

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First, thanks to all who responded to my first post. All were very helpful, and all but one were positive (had one negative hit on the 24 valve). It shows me that the Ram/Cummins users believe in the product, which I needed to know going into a $30K plus purchase. I also appreciate being welcomed into the TDR group. These next few questions have been answered a bunch before I'm sure, but if you all can help with a few more things, I'll get out of your hair. The truck I buy will most likely be used with a side in truck camper so I can tow a motorcycle trailer (antique H-D, thus the ULH user name). I've pretty much have my mind set on the Cummins and 6 speed and 4X4. I take trips to the NC Outer Banks where 4x4 is highly recommended and an occational trip to the great white North.
1. Having trouble deciding between DRW (35000) and SRW (2500). Pros and cons from those in the know.
2. Gear ratio. I've made the mistake in the past getting a higher gear (lower numerically) and then when I put on larger tires I lost some of my towing power.
3. Other essential options. Things considered 'must have' , but not luxury type items.
4. What the hell does BOMBed mean? #ad
Is it just a term for aftermarket power enhancements?
Didn't mean to make this so long, but I have lots of questions. Hopefully I can meet some of you at a local gathering in the near future.
Mick

[This message has been edited by ulhpilot (edited 02-08-2001). ]

[This message has been edited by ulhpilot (edited 02-08-2001). ]

[This message has been edited by ulhpilot (edited 02-08-2001). ]
 
You didn't say what camper you have. As you can see by my sig, I have a DRW. I picked it because I planned to purchase a 11 1/2' cab over slide in. Most people who have campers and switch from a SRW to DRW are very glad they did. Others I talk to will get the DRW when the get the next truck. That includes 5th wheelers. If you have a big, heavy camper you WILL be glad you have the DRW!

I was a little nervous when I first started driving it around town with narrow lanes. And parking lots are a lot of fun. I just fit between the lines.

So far, I still have both fenders and I have gotten use to the width.

Good luck!

#ad


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2001, 3500, 2X4, QC, SLT, Auto, 3. 54 gears, camper and tow packages. Lance model 1130 camper. Rancho 9000 5 Speed shocks. BD Brake, autoloc, pressureloc. Hadley air horns. OEM bugshield w/eyebrows and dash cover. Member San Jose Ram Runners.
 
ulhpilot-

Call Chrysler and have them send you their "Camper Application Booklet". It is a Chrysler publication that has very comprehensive info on everything to do with loading the various models. Most dealers aren't aware of the publication. It is a must read if you are going to put a slide in camper on your truck. I personally like my 2500 but sure wish we could get a 3500 that has SRW like Ford has. If you are going with 4x4 and a quad cab on a 2500 you will be very limited when going with a slide in camper. You'll see what I mean when you read the booklet.

Dave.

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99 QC SB 4x4 Auto
Factory Ordered
Most Options
 
Dave,

Isn't the 2500 the same as the 3500 except for the rear axle?

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2001 2500; SLT; 4x4; QC; LWB; Auto; 3. 54 LS; 265s; Camper; Tow; Sliding Rear Window; Travel Convenience Group; Cab Clearance Lamps; Forest Green
 
Depends on if you want to be close to legal weight limits or not. With a 2500 QC 4x4 Cummins combo you have about 1800# for passengers, camper and gear.
Differences between 2500 & 3500 are axle capacity, wheels, brakes and weight limits.
The gear ratio is always a hot topic. I have 3. 50's/5sp, mildly BOMBed with stock 245 tires and pretty happy pulling a 5k trailer but I think the 4. 10 would work better if running max weight and bigger tires.

Must haves: Tow package unless you like wiring up relays and feeding wire down the frame from front to back. Heavy Duty Transfer Case if 4x4. Rear suspension group which adds the sway bar and overload spring set. And I like the Sure Grip (limited slip) axle.

Like people say "Everyone has opionions" - Well these are mine.

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'99, 2500, QC, blah, blah & blah
 
Mick, there are a ba-zillion reasons to buy either a 3/4 or 1 ton. Everyone of us can justify why we bought what we did. Some of us have owned both models and still ain't any smarter than the rest.
Think about what you plan on doing with the truck and what you plan on pulling then think about what your going to add then when you think you know what you need for a truck then double it. I'm the worst one to ask about these trucks cause I don't tow much and if I need something hauled that might scratch my truck I call one of my friends with a ford to move it for me yet I won't drive nothing but a dually!! They are the ride!!!! My wife's 2000 Caravan sits in the drive if we are going any distance and take the one ton just because of the ride comfort.
So think about it and listen to what everyone has to say then go BUY A DUALLY!!!!!! #ad
#ad
Pete

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01. 5 Loooaded up!!!!!
 
I now have a 4x4 3500 simply for the reason I was WAY over the GVW of 8800 my 97 2500 was rated for. I have a 9’10” Lance Ledgend 500 and (tow when not hauling the camper), The 2500 also was a 4x4 with a 60gal fuel tank. My empty weight was 7400 without the co-pilot. There was no problem in handling and pulling either with the 5spd 3:54 gear ratio.

I opted for the 3500 6spd High Output diesel and have been very satisfied as far as I can determine with 4700 miles of winter driving since December. I probably would go with the 4:10 if I chose the Auto but i like the 3:54 better for all around use. It gives me plenty of gitty up and go with the play toys.

I have the Camper package and tow package. I put running boards on for the co-pilot and mud flaps for the 5vr’s sake. Exhaust brake if you tow much is very useful.

I changed hitches so I could have a flat surface to load the slide in camper, and can attach the 5th wheel hitch in a couple of minutes.


The 3500 does have wide hips which interferes with your vision to the rear when backing up to a wall or objects as you can not see the rear bumper,fender,etc. Little more difficulty in airing up tires. Lot more stable on curves and rough roads when loaded with 5vr or Lance camper.
2200lbs more GVW rating!

I hope some of this rambling helps in your decision.


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Bert
2001. 5,3500 QC 4x4, HO/6spd,limited slip,BD brake,60 gal Aero tank.
 
Mick:

Everyone has already given you very
good advice!

If you are going to put in a "slide in
camper" you should probably go with the
3500 dually. Pete Peterson posted to you
about his new HO 6 speed and how good it
tows for him.

As far as axle ratio, you have already
experienced what the "wrong" ratio can
do. If you are towing alot and carrying
heavy loads the 4. 10 ratio is probably
better.

You said you "take trips to the Outer
Banks" and "to the great North" so I
would definitely opt for the 4X4 option.

I sure hope you can make it to our
"get together" on February 17th. It
looks like we may be having it at
a "Golden Corral" up your way as the
other restaurant has inadequate parking
according to Stan (ISB RAMBO).
-------------------------
John_P
 
i have a 93 4x4 duelly w/ 11' lance
even w/ that trk iam right at max weights
a 3/4 ton can handle a 9' and a 10'
but you will be over weight and in a crash
you could have more blame on you.

if you plan heavy tows go w/ a class 5
its a must!!!! hitch that is,

of med 5th wheels a 3/4 ton is ok.
my 93 susp is stock and works great
w/ 11' camper weight close to 4000lbs

bill try irv2 ? on the net
they have a lance site ,

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1993 w350 ex cab, banks,nv 4500 in
open exaust, pw Injectors are in. Big rig flaps,tach in,. Its loud and goes ok, for a 93,Ham radio Call KK6dm
has ability to communicate any where in the world. Headliner shelf
5 antenna's
 
Greeting ulhpilot,

Great to see another member here in Apex. I think you should seriously consider meeting with the NC gang this next Sat. I believe some one could help with all your questions.
Drop me a line sometime I'll do my best to help you with your truck hunting.

Try to help with some of your questions.
I thinks with a slide in, you really need the extra capacity of the 1 ton. Although I've had my 3/4 heavily loaded and never felt that that it was unsafe.
Depending on how big of tire you plan on adding you might opt for 4. 10's. I had 4. 10 on my last truck but went with 3. 55 this time, serves my purpose much better. I would only recommend 4. 10 if your getting an auto. Best bet would be 3. 55 and the HO 6speed.
One of your first mod should be an exhaust brake, I'll wouldn't tow without one.
Another suggestion instead of the slide in and pulling the trailer how about one of the toy haulers, that way you can have the best of both worlds.
Wes


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2001 Quad Cab 4x4 ETH

[This message has been edited by 1BIG44 (edited 02-10-2001). ]
 
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