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The $2200 Clutch Job From Hell AKA Avoid South Bend Clutch!

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This mess all started back in Jan/Feb, when I ordered the "CON-FE" ETH clutch from South Bend Clutch. I chose this clutch because of the price (approx $950), and because of all the good

feedback SBC had received... particularly that SBC was willing to cover the labor in the event of a problem. I even told Peter this on the phone when I placed the order, and he did not refute it.



I had a local transmission shop, called Schuck's Transmission, in Dublin, California, do the installation. This is a shop that I trust, as they have done work for me in the past, and hvae also done work for a number of friends. Everybody who had dealt with them has been happy with their work.



They charged me $650 in labor. Now remember, this is the SF Bay Area. Everything here is more expensive. So the total so far is $1600.



Upon picking up the truck, the pedal effort was noticeably higher, and the clutch chattered and grabbed like mad. After driving with it for a week, I discussed it with Peter, who said something wasn't right, and to have the shop look at the fork, which he said could have been put in backwards. I took it back to the shop and they checked it out and said it was fine.



I later learned that there is NO WAY the fork can be put in wrong. It simply is not possible. Not even a monkey could install the fork improperly.



Peter decided to send me another clutch to have the shop install, since something was obviously wrong with the first one.



The shop removed the old clutch and installed the new one. The flywheel and pressure plate had blue marks all over it from overheating. The clutch disc was very shiny in spots. You

can see photos at http://www.f-body.org/rob/01ram/badclutch/



The clutch disc did not appear to be warped. The throwout bearing moved freely on the input shaft, and the input shaft was not scored or damaged in any way. The fork, as mentioned

earlier, was fine, and very obviously not installed incorrectly.



The new clutch appeared to work as advertised. Pedal pressure was normal once again, and the chatter was mostly gone. The clutch is VERY grabby and takes some getting used to.



The shop charged me $550 for the swap (I talked 'em down $100), but Peter was unwilling to help until he received the old clutch. So much for his guarantee. I spent some time discussing the situation with the various people who visited the TDR Chat Room, and despite my better judgement, I reluctantly agreed to return the old clutch to Peter. What I should ahve done was take it to various other transmission shops and even other clutch manufacturers for a second opinion. BUT, again based solely on his good reputation on TDR and his apparent willingness to do the right thing, I sent it back to SBC.



The shop and many people that I spoke to felt that the pressure plate was bad. After two weeks, Peter sent me email asking me to call so we could discuss the problem. He insisted the pressure plate was fine (no surprise there) and that it was installer error. He insisted that lack of lubrication on the input shaft was the problem, yet you can see in the photos at the URL I posted that there was lubrication used.



Nevertheless, he DID say he would take care of me, and the discussion drifted to a clutch for my Camaro. He said he'd build me one at a really great price, but I also interpreted the discussion to mean he'd still be refunding what I paid for the second labor charge.



Another two weeks passed and no checks arrived in the mail, and no credits were made to my card. I emailed him again to ask what was up.



HE said he thought his "taking care of me" would be to build me a clutch for my Camaro if I provided a core. I told him that wouldn't be happening anytime soon (budget reasons) and I could really use the money instead. He said to send him the invoice number from the original clutch order and he'd take care of it. I interpreted this to mean he would be covering the entire $550. No mention was made of any other amount.



I was unable to locate the invoice number, and Peter was also unable to locate it (so much for their filing system, huh?). After a couple of weeks, I get an email from him "offering" $200. This is after telling him at least several times that the labor charge was $550. I replied and asked where that number came from, and why he had led me to believe that he would cover the entire labor charge. I have yet to receive any further communication from Peter or SBC. This email was sent via the TDR Forum Email System, so I know it wasn't lost in transit.



The other problem is that the SBC clutch (the CON-FE or whatever the hell it's called) is so grabby that I really don't like driving my truck anymore. My girlfriend wanted to drive it last weekend, so I said sure. When she got out she said she'd never drive it again, because the clutch absolutely SUCKED. And this from a girl who refuses to drive any vehicle with an automatic transmission.



So here I am with a $2200 clutch that absolutely sucks. Now what? It's obvious by now that SBC has no intention of helping. Peter just keeps going on about how he sent me a new clutch at no charger and blah blah blah, and makes it sound like I'm being unreasonable in expecting him to cover the entire labor charge that he TWICE said he would cover. Instead he comes up with this arbitrary number that isn't even HALF of what ONE of the labor charges was. And I'm supposed to like it? I'm supposed to continue along all happy?



The point is this: The first clutch WAS defective. It's very convenient for SBC to insist that it's installer error, especially since they now have the evidence. And even if it wasn't, Peter did, in fact, say on two separate occaisons, that he would cover the second labor charge. Now he's going back on that promise. And THAT is where the problem lies.



Rob
 
rob



sorry to hear about your luck. i love my con fe, sure it's a little grabby and the pedal effort is a little tougher but it's holding more than twice the power my stock one did. there is going to be a few issues with any hi-po clutch. take out your sbc and put in a dual disc if you want to feel chatter!!



you have alot of tdr brothers in that neck of the woods and they do alot of clutches and more than likely helped you do it yourself.



of course the installer is going to blame it on the builder if they screw it up. not saying they did but if they did. if you sent it back to peter and he said it was fine i'm going to believe the guy that builds them over the guy putting it in. i would be going after the installer personally. it would be up to them to prove that the clutch had failed. $650. seems really high it took my dealer 1. 5 hrs to do the whole job.



like i said sorry to hear about your bad luck.



jim
 
Rob,



Why did you not install this clutch yourself? This way you would know it was correct.



If the clutch was causing the problem or the installation was incorrect, there is no way you will know. You took it back to the same place. You could have eliminated 50% of the equation after you received the second clutch from them. Installing the clutch yourself and still having a problem, you may have been in a better position to know the clutch or install was the problem.



Yeah, I have a SouthBend clutch and I am not defending Peter in

any way. I do not know him from the two very short conversations we had on the phone. I do know that I have only heard you complaining and no-one else about the clutches.



The Con FE clutch is going to be somewhat grabby compared to the Con O.

Could you try the Con O clutch? Mine is smooth as silk and it holds everything I have. It is still semi organic and does not chatter.

From the pictures it looks as if the clutch fork was installed properly. The open end on the one side would not allow it to be installed any way but the correct way. If it was installed backwards (end to end) the slave cylinder would not have anything to push against.

Mine has a solid end on both sides of the fork and could be installed backwards.



Don~
 
Rob,



1st: If you could only stand up to the transmission shop in person like you stand up to me over the internet, things might go a little better for you!



2nd: 950. 00

650. 00

550. 00

----------

2150. 00



This is not 2200



3rd: As for my filing cabinet, we go by Inv. # not by name. If we went by name it would take a year to find someone's inv. every time someone called. It appears you lost your receipt in a very short period of time, you might want to reorganize your filing cabinet.



4th: Talking to you, you sound a little young but I am not for sure. Any place that you buy parts from (if they provide labor) has a set rate. I have been very clear about mine from the onset with everyone. You want to interpret things in your mined so it all works out for you. I told you I thought they over charged you but I would help you out with the labor but you interpret that as paying for all of it. What if they charged $900. should I be responsible for that?



5th: My secretary will be attaching our last email conversation latter tonight or tomorrow for all to see. After saying what you said on this email about me and the TDR and all the TDR members,

you should be ashamed of yourself. But, your last words were I will call you tomorrow with the Inv. # so I could credit your credit card and I never received that call. After my brothers read your last email, they said "Peter any money you give this guy will be like throwing money out the window, nothing that you do will satisfy this guy" but I was still going to do it regardless. ROB YOU NEVER CALLED, AND DON'T BOTHER NOW!!!!



6th: and for most, about the fork, thank you Don. At the time we were not sure if the forks were the same on the 2001 as yours. As for the install, Rob you really need to get your hands on more. Anyone with any knowledge that goes to the pictures that you posted has got to wonder what all that white glob is doing at the end of the bearing retainer (was it shoved off by the bearing?) it certainly was not on the spline of the input shaft and if it was HOLLY COW!! Folks you can click on the pictures to enlarge them. I want you to take a look at the spline of the disc. Dry as a bone, and ware it is all shiny just outside the teeth is ware it seemed the problem came from (it is kind of hard to see on the picture) but it appeared that the transmission shop had a hard time lining the input shaft to the disc, it was gulled up. As for the blue marks, heat is the only way you can get a clutch to turn blue. Rob, maybe you need to take a lesson on how to drive a clutch?



Finally, what is funny is I cleaned up this so-called bad clutch, deburred the spline of the disc and sold it at a discounted price. It is working great, Hmmm, go figure.



Peter
 
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RobG I'm sorry to hear you've had such a crappy clutch experience, I'd be pretty unhappy if I was out that kind of money too.



Looking at the pictures though I would have to agree with Peter the splines look pretty dry on the disk and input shaft. I know you may have a lot of confidence in the shop you used but even the best shops can botch a job sometimes. I'm not a clutch expert and don't know how critical lube is on the splines but if they "oopsed" on something like that, then what else might they have done wrong?



Vaughn
 
How often is it that you can talk to the designer of any clutch on the phone? He!!, we are lucky to have a guy like Peter out there putting something together for us to try.

I have never dealt with any manufacturer of high performance parts knowing full well that the clutch would have to put up with high HP and TQ and offer a warranty that covers installation labor.

That is rediculous. People could loose alot of money doing that.

I know many people have had not the best of luck with the dual disk clutch from centerforce. Centerforce does not give you money to pay for labor if you dont like it. They could refund your money or exchange the thing, but paying for labor? Come on Rob, no one should have to pay for labor.



It took me and a friend a total of 6 hours to do all the removal and re-installation of my transmission. I even bead blasted all the bolts and hardware, removed all the u-joints from the rear shaft (3) and replaced them, installed the Kevlar bushing in the flywheel, removed the transfer case PTO cover to aid in the removal of all the old fluid, scraped all the silicone off the cover and resealed it, refilled the trans and transfer case and was driving the thing. This was all in a driveway on my back with no transmission jack. I used a large floor jack and elbow grease.



The little clip that holds the slave cylinder piston to the clutch fork fell into the bell housing and we had to fish that sucker out with a strong magnet. (fishing it out took about 45 minutes) Nearly had to pull the trans out again! We tied a small piece of fishing line on the clip this time around in case it fell in again.

The first attempt to stab the trans in did not work out because the clutch fork kept slipping around. Finally made a little holder for the clutch fork to hold it in place and it was a piece of cake.



I know the whole thing was done right and no shortcuts were made to get it done. I drive the thing all over the country and through some cold and harsh areas, I wanted to know it was right.



Sometimes performance upgrades can be a bit unpleasant, like I said earlier, we are lucky to have guys trying different things to help get the power to the ground.



Don~
 
Hmmm tooks to me like the install was bad.



The input shaft and throughout bearing get LITTLE OR NO GREASE when installing a clutch!

A part of that glob of grease probably got on the friction surface and caused your chatter



the clutch disk does not even look broken in.



A picture is worth a thousand words... . and in your case $1000... . looks like you should find a better shop to do clutch installs... . or better yet do it yourself
 
Peter,



Just keep up the good work. Unfortunately you can't please everyone and you'll kill yourself if you try. Make an honest effort and if that doesn't cut it for some people well... The cream always rises to the top and that other stuff usually settles to the bottom.
 
funny thing is that mcleod and everyone else would have let you know that you are number one... . and said too bad too sad. you have gotten more service than that and you are still mad. I did my install myself, the sbc rocks and yes a woman drives the truck, and it passes most other guys diesels... . well that is fwiw
 
Hey Peter, I wouldn't be too concerned about the above comments. Your product never failed, and neither will your business. I will still buy a South Bend Clutch and have mine installed by a professional garage (hopefully I can get Autowurks Diesel to do it for me). I should be calling you Peter in a couple of weeks to place an order.
 
Another South Bend Story

I had the South Bend MU 0087 Con. B Clutch it did all that it was suppost to. Yes it was grabby, Heavy, and chattered but it held. After my Vacation to the Oregon coast I was backing my trailer in my driveway and the chatter was too bad!!!!



I got a hold of Peter and he offered with out me even asking to replace the clutch and suggested the MU 0090 Con. O. I had driven Heberrams truck with the MU 2001 Con. FE in it and I was undesided for about a week. I finally went with the Con O.



I am Very Pleased with this clutch!!!!! :D :cool: :D



My old clutch had nothing wrong with it, it was working the way it was supposed to, But Peter went the extra Mile and got me fixed up.



RobG way early in this process we talked in chat and I told you it was a lack of lube and you where going to go after the install shop. This all of the sudden changed and it was all Peter fault.



Any shop worth it's beans would have done the clutch at a way reduced price if not for free to try and keep your business. The $100 off they gave you wasn't nothing. The labor of $650 is a rip off even for the bay area. $175 dollar an hour or so. So by giving you $100 off they reduced there labor rate to 150/hour. In my book you got screwed by the shop even on the first time.



It's always easier to sit at the computer and gripe(raise hell) than it is to go mono a mono.



I am sorry you had problem but going after South Bend and Peter is TOTAL BS







I LUV MY MU 0090 Con. O
 
Peter

Keep your head up.



This transaction has been BS fro the get go.



Was Rob ever happy with with his truck :confused:





Its always best not to throw parts at the problem
 
Dee,





what did your truck dyno with all those goodies on it? I want to do the governor spring kit too. I have the 3400 kit here, but I feel I should can it, and go with the 4000 one.



Don~



I guess you like your clutch... ... ... ... ... .
 
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