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The engine won't die!

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1994 Ram 2500 4x4 stick...

several times last month the engine would continue to run with the key off. Even killing the engine with the clutch was pointless because the engine would restart. After several minutes the engine would eventually stop untill the third time this happened. The final time the fuel shut off valve burst into flames and then the engine died. A local Cummins shop replaced the valve ($450). This month it has started again... ... . What is screwing up this valve?
 
The most likely cause is the fuel solenoid relay. There are two relays on the firewall on the engine side of the master cylinder. The closest one to the master cylinder is the one you want to look at. If it restarts from a stop after you kill it then the problem may be your starter contacts sticking. The fuel shut off valve is probably ok.
 
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Ditto starter contacts, about $15. 00 instaed of $400 for a starter. Any place that rebuilds starters will have them.
 
Where are the starter contacts? My truck has sounded like the starter has not disengaged right away after starting. Is that likly to be the solenoid or the contacts you speak of.

Thanks in advance.

Frank
 
The contacts are in the soliniod which is mounted on the starter. Starter is easy to pull and then remove the rear of the solinoid and its plain to see what needs done.
 
Guess today was my turn. I was out plowing snow all morning. Came time to move the Dodge to plow around. I had not had it plugged in so being a bit cold, it died the first time around. Hit the key and got a "click". Hit the key again and it fired. I let it run about five minutes with the exhaust brake on while I cleaned off the snow. I moved it out of the way, but it would not shut off. I ran for a wrench to remove the cables. Guess I forgot to turn the key back on because by the time I had the hood open, the selenoid was smoking pretty good.



I had not heard the starter being engaged through this but when I touched the cable to the battery, I heard it spinning. I got the starter off and the contacts are pretty much shot, one more worn than the other.



So what you guys are saying, the contacts will make the starter stick?



Now the selenoid. It's pretty much toast. I called my tractor dealer who can get me one for less than 3/4 of a buck but it is not in stock. He was looking at microfich and did not have mine in front of him. Has anyone ever gotten one from a tractor dealer? I am wondering if the wiring harness is the same. They don't care if I don't take it or not but I would loose another day.



Thanks in advance.
 
I do know that Cummins updated the solenoid to newer and actually better part number recently. I did the updated one and it was some big bucks. Close to three bills.



Don~
 
If the fuel solenoid is smoking then the pull on coil is still on. The relay is probably sticking to cause that. The starter and solenoid pull on coil are all on when the key in is the start position and are supposed to let go in run. So make sure the fuel solenoid relay is replaced. It might have caused the starter problem in the first place so then when it stayed on the starter contacts got burnt up.
 
Originally posted by Don M

I do know that Cummins updated the solenoid to newer and actually better part number recently. I did the updated one and it was some big bucks. Close to three bills.



Don~
 
Trackball mouse gets me every time.

Originally posted by Don M

I do know that Cummins updated the solenoid to newer and actually better part number recently. I did the updated one and it was some big bucks. Close to three bills.



Don~



Let me try this again.



Don~ What makes the updated selenoid better? I was aware that they are pricey so when my tractor parts guy gave me a low price I figure it will never work. Have to go see him in the am.
 
Joe, I was vague on the starter contacts. I meant that they were worn from age but they did not burn up. I was going to try to test the fuel selenoid relay tomorrow. Since I will be running for parts, maybe I should just grab one.
 
I don't know how much the relay costs because mine has never failed. If the price is not too bad it would be a good idea to change the thing regardless. Starter contacts go bad all the time, but they don't usually smoke the fuel solenoid. The pull on coil is not designed to stay on very long. As soon as the truck starts the hold coil holds the solenoid pulled and the relay turns off the pull on coil. So if it's burning up that's not happening. Just about the only thing that can cause that is a bad relay.
 
If the starter solenoid sticks it backfeeds power to the pull on coil holding the shutdown open. After a short time the pull on coil can overheat. I have had this happen a few times and each time I just turned the key to the start position a couple of times and it shook the solenoid loose and then shut down as normal. Then it worked fine for a while.



I need to get to fixing that I guess. :rolleyes:
 
I tried cycling the key several times then decided to run for a wrench to pull the cables. Had the brain been working, I would have pulled the selenoid plug first. The truck was maybe ten feet from the garage so beware because that selenoid does heat up quickly.



Time and distance in mind, I bit the bullet and got a new relay from the stealer (47, ouch), the selenoid will be here tomorrow (400, big ouch). The old style would have been a mere 257. I would have emailed for a better price but can't let the truck sit.



I did go to the tractor dealer by the way. The selenoid he had was near (but not quite) identicle. The plug and the rod were slightly different. Not worth trying to modify. The price was only 175. Hey, worth a try.



Other than the contacts, the starter seems okay. I will get that back together in the morning and bench test it.
 
OK, now ya got me even more worrieder.





Anyone know where the best place to buy starter solenoid contacts is??
 
Larry, I got a set from Art's electric in Longview. They were $10. 50 +tax. Check with starter rebuild shops they should have them. When I replaced mine the line side was warn down about 50% and the load side just needed cleaned up but I replaced it anyway.

Bob Verhoef
 
Thanks Bob, There's a rebuild shop a couple of blocks from work. Do I need to take in the old parts or should they know what I need.



Larry
 
Larry, I just told them what it was for and they looked it up. The part number on the invoice is ASP66-82767 if that helps.

Bob
 
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