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The engine won't die!

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Intercooler question...

Another fuel pressure guage question

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I had Bob's number with me but the guy I bought from said it would not do him anygood. He whips out a box of contacts, matched mine up and away I go. He had a whole lot of different styles in that box.
 
Definitely take the old contacts in and match them- I had the starter with me. the solenoid open, but without the contacts removed. The contacts they gave me were not right and the starter wouldn't work. I figured it out- with help from this Great Site. Put the old ones in until I have time + a ride to replace them.

Frank:cool:
 
Originally posted by Don M

I do know that Cummins updated the solenoid to newer and actually better part number recently. I did the updated one and it was some big bucks. Close to three bills.



Don~



Don, I picked up my selenoid on my way to work this afternoon. Guess I'll burn some midnight oil tonight when I get home. I see the differences but note no change to the rubber boot. Did you need to use the mounting bracket that came with it?



A coworker suggested putting a heavy inline fuse in this circuit should something ever happen again. Anyone ever do this or think it is worthwhile?
 
I don't think an in-line fuse would work. When it's working correctly it draws a lot of amps. The problem happens if it does that for very long. The pull on coil is like a starter solenoid. Ok for a while, but will burn up if it stays on very long.
 
Joe, what should or could I have done then? I think I read somewhere here that if I would have left the key in the on position while I pulled the cables, I would have been okay. Or should I have pulled the selenoid cable off?
 
Pulling the big three wire connector apart would have been the thing to do. However, thinking of it while the thing is smokeing is another thing. On mine I have rigged a relay for the white wire in that connector for a couple of reason. It allows me to pre-lube the engine after an oil change before starting it and also serves as a theft delay switch. The engine won't start with the switch off. In an event like you had I could just turn off the switch on the dash. That is, if I managed to think of it. Probably wouldn't think of it and burn up the solenoid. :(
 
I think if the starter solenoid is stuck, the starter will continue to run/crank so you would have to disconnect the battery anyway. Though you might save the fuel shut off solenoid by disconnecting that first. Either way it's a hurry up situation. :eek:



My additional . 02

Larry
 
Well, I got everything back together and it runs just fine. Thanks for the help guys. After going through this, I would suggest that owners with some miles on take the part number that Bob Verhoef posted (ASP66-82767) and pick up a set of contacts to have on hand. (The guy at the shop I used said those numbers meant nothing to him, he just grabbed a big box of contacts and matched up my old ones. )



Worst part of the starter is figuring out the correct tools to use to remove it.
 
Yep, after pulling it,replacing the contacts, putting it back on, finding out I got the wrong contacts, taking it back off, putting the old contacts back in, and reinstalling it . , when I pulled it to put in the right contacts it took 15 min. Nothing like experience!:D
 
Thanks to all for the help. The local Dodge dealership sold me a new fuel solinoid relay for $59. It took 5 min. to change out and all my problems seem to be cured! I have been told that any Napa Parts dealer can sell an identical unit for $35 to $38. The happy ending to this story is that now when the key goes off, the engine dies... ... ... ... ..... Thanks again to all. (Love my truck)
 
Why can't there be another high current relay ahead of the starter relay energized by a switch on the dash which is left on unless a starter lockup occurs?

Thanks RJ
 
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