The G56: What is the size of the tool needed ...

[RVTRKN]

I like your refinements.

 

[chrisg331]

Nicely done gentlemen....any need for a bypass in the winter?

 

[truckmen]

Thank you very much for taking the time in showing this info. What is the item number for the heat exchanger?

Ralph

 

[RVTRKN]

Thank you very much for taking the time in showing this info. What is the item number for the heat exchanger?

Ralph

Is your CTD a Third gen? My heat exchanger is actually the OEM automatic heat exchanger for an auto equipped truck. The radiator for 03 through 09 trucks are the same for auto or manual, so the heat exchanger will clip on it. I can give you all the part numbers, if you PM me. This is what I'd install now if I were to do it again.
https://www.dieselperformance.com/s...ission-cooler-kit-universial-1-2in-tubing-583

Nicely done gentlemen....any need for a bypass in the winter?

I only run mine when my temps get over 180*. I use a manual switch I installed on my dash that lights up when in the on position, so I don't forget it's on. However it does have a built in bypass, because the heat exchanger is an OEM part that has it already built in.

 

[truckmen]

Is your CTD a Third gen? My heat exchanger is actually the OEM automatic heat exchanger for an auto equipped truck. The radiator for 03 through 09 trucks are the same for auto or manual, so the heat exchanger will clip on it. I can give you all the part numbers, if you PM me. This is what I'd install now if I were to do it again.
https://www.dieselperformance.com/s...ission-cooler-kit-universial-1-2in-tubing-583

I only run mine when my temps get over 180*. I use a manual switch I installed on my dash that lights up when in the on position, so I don't forget it's on. However it does have a built in bypass, because the heat exchanger is an OEM part that has it already built in.

Mine is 4th gen.

 

[RVTRKN]

Thank you very much for taking the time in showing this info. What is the item number for the heat exchanger?

Ralph

Read this thread I linked, for good info on my temps as I tested it when I finished it, it will give you most of the info your looking for. The BD cooler is what I'd go with for a 4th Gen. The last post has the part numbers. https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ooler?highlight=G56+transmission+temperatures

 

[chrisg331]

Thanks RVTRKN,

Much appreciated.

 

[Brian Criste]

I like your refinements.

Thanks for all your help along the way!

 

[MichaelOverfield]

I installed the FAS-Coolers on mine, and they are weeping a bit, so I'm soon to re-do that job. I used the supplied Mopar sealant, and was very meticulous about cleaning the surfaces. Over the years I've had similar issues with the RTV sealant only gaskets, I prefer a REAL gasket. For the re-do I have the PTO gaskets, I'll try to link them here..
I will install real gaskets (6 total, one each side of the adapter, and one on the cover). Since I'm doing it AGAIN, I did get the sight glass cover, as having some leakage, and no easy way to read level is a bit concerning. That sight glass cover Geno's sells is thick Aluminum. It is easy to drill and tap a 1/8" NPT hole for a temperature sensor. I had a sensor on the 1/4" NPT hole on the bottom of the Fas-Cooler (with adapter), but that location is problematic, unprotected from road debris, it was hit and damaged. I had not as yet completed the wiring to the temperature gauge, I have 3 sensors, 1 ea differential, and the transmission, to hook up to a single meter via selector switch. When I get that done, I'll have the ability to monitor all 3. I choose the Fas-Coolers over the other brand due to the increased fluid volume they provide. The passenger side cooler also was a TIGHT fit, and if I recall, I had to shorten the bolts a tad to get it in there. On the redo I may look at a slight tweek to the exhaust to open that up a bit. ALSO, there is a filter kit you can install with the Fas-Cooler, also available at Genos, I have this to install as well. One other thought, there is a considerable thread out there about proper fluid for the G56, Chrysler is using ATF, where most of the world uses synthetic 50Wt transmission oil in this transmission. I went with the 50wt, with a tiny amount of the ATF to make up the volume as I was a tad short on 50Wt.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/.../pto-gasket-set/55380/4304103/1990/ford/f-350

 

[Brian Criste]

My guess is that what you will find is that pulling a load at highway speed in 6th gear (say 20k +) will send the trans temp over 240*. That was my experience. The added volume by the fastcoolers may slow the rise, but the end situation is that the transmission is bolted to a 200* heater (the engine) with 1000* exhaust very close. There isn't enough cool air to keep the trans cool for long periods of time. Add a little extra heat from the gears and boom, you're at 240+*. The recirculating cooler was the only way I could see reducing heat other that a massive air scoop. I knew the cooler would work, the air scoop would have taken a ton of R&D and would come with its own problems. Now will running the trans at 240+* hurt anything? I don't know but I do know that the hotter it runs the more aluminum expands and the further the gears will separate from each which may be fine with a light load but heavy seams to cause problems. That's why I'm afraid for mine. I gross 32k with my race trailer for 1200miles at a time and I want this thing to last!

 

[MichaelOverfield]

My guess is that what you will find is that pulling a load at highway speed in 6th gear (say 20k +) will send the trans temp over 240*. That was my experience.

Good point, if I ever get a rig that heavy, I'd seriously consider additional cooling, but rig, fully loaded is maybe 13K total, not exactly the hardest work for the truck at this point, but I'll have a better read with the temp gauge hooked up to know for sure. What I can know with the FAST-Coolers alone, I have added fluid, and heat transfer area for cooling over what the OEM figured was needed.. but we do know there are ways to improve upon the OEM minimums for sure!

 

[Brian Criste]

"I ever get a rig that heavy, I'd seriously consider additional cooling, but rig, fully loaded is maybe 13K total, not exactly the hardest work for the truck at this point, but I'll have a better read with the temp gauge hooked up to know for sure." QUOTE]


You might be surprised once you get your gauge at how hot it gets even at that. Mine towing my empty dump trailer at about the total weight you are talking about will hit 240* at 70 mph on level ground in about 90 miles. It's just a slow steady climb. The higher it gets, the slower it climbs. The good news is that it did top out around there. Driving empty to Atlanta (from Central FL) with no trailer, it would get to about 230 ish but would take about 2.5 hours. This was all in about 90-93* weather. That was running about 74 mph. My guess is that the Fastcoolers will help very little but will slow the rise in temperature. I kind of figure the transmission is one big aluminum piece anyway so it is going to transfer heat about the same.
On my 06' Automatic, the Mag-Hytec double deep pan did make a little bit of difference and it certainly slowed the rise in temp a bunch. It did seem to lower operating temperature about 10-15 degrees towing (only time you could really tell on peak temp) but I attribute that more to the added depth getting the fins more into a colder air stream not near the engine or the exhaust. So there is some theory and some real world results I can attest too. Your experience may be different. Always cool to see and hear other's theories and experiences either way!

 

[RVTRKN]

"I ever get a rig that heavy, I'd seriously consider additional cooling, but rig, fully loaded is maybe 13K total, not exactly the hardest work for the truck at this point, but I'll have a better read with the temp gauge hooked up to know for sure." QUOTE]


You might be surprised once you get your gauge at how hot it gets even at that. Mine towing my empty dump trailer at about the total weight you are talking about will hit 240* at 70 mph on level ground in about 90 miles. It's just a slow steady climb. The higher it gets, the slower it climbs. The good news is that it did top out around there. Driving empty to Atlanta (from Central FL) with no trailer, it would get to about 230 ish but would take about 2.5 hours. This was all in about 90-93* weather. That was running about 74 mph. My guess is that the Fastcoolers will help very little but will slow the rise in temperature. I kind of figure the transmission is one big aluminum piece anyway so it is going to transfer heat about the same.
On my 06' Automatic, the Mag-Hytec double deep pan did make a little bit of difference and it certainly slowed the rise in temp a bunch. It did seem to lower operating temperature about 10-15 degrees towing (only time you could really tell on peak temp) but I attribute that more to the added depth getting the fins more into a colder air stream not near the engine or the exhaust. So there is some theory and some real world results I can attest too. Your experience may be different. Always cool to see and hear other's theories and experiences either way!

Good point, if I ever get a rig that heavy, I'd seriously consider additional cooling, but rig, fully loaded is maybe 13K total, not exactly the hardest work for the truck at this point, but I'll have a better read with the temp gauge hooked up to know for sure. What I can know with the FAST-Coolers alone, I have added fluid, and heat transfer area for cooling over what the OEM figured was needed.. but we do know there are ways to improve upon the OEM minimums for sure!

Are you aware your not supposed to tow in sixth gear, that will attribute to your overheating, even on flat running? For me, any grade I come to, I go to 5th until I've crested the summit. Back to unloaded temperatures, at 15K GCW my trans hit 250*+ with a 90* ambient.

 

[Brian Criste]

Are you aware your not supposed to tow in sixth gear, that will attribute to your overheating, even on flat running? For me, any grade I come to, I go to 5th until I've crested the summit. Back to unloaded temperatures, at 15K GCW my trans hit 250*+ with a 90* ambient.

I've heard tail that you aren't supposed to tow in 6th and no disrespect intended because I truly want to know, where did you read this? I have owner's manuals for my 96', 04' 06', and my 16'. I can't find anywhere where it says not to tow in 6th in any of them. Besides, that simply isn't possible with today's interstate speeds. That being said, in slow rolling hills (north Florida, North Georgia before the mountains, rolling flats of the Carolinas) I try to stay in 6th most of the time but any serious hill, I downshift before I even have to put my foot on the floor. Typically speaking, I won't put it on the floor in 6th for more than about 5 seconds under any circumstances and I won't let the RPM's go below about 1700 ish in 6th except in coast.

 

[RVTRKN]

Per Standard Transmission and Blumenthals. I'll see if I can find literature on it. This has come up in the past, and it has been discussed here before. Being that 6th is overdrive, it makes since. I know that even the stronger NV5600 can have the same issues towing heavy in 6th.

 

[Brian Criste]

Well, either way, I guess we'll see how many miles mine lasts keeping it cool.... Truck and trailer loaded is right at 32k. Ironically, the truck is 14k gvw, trailer is 18k gvw (with 3-7k axles, go figure) and none of my axles are overloaded. They are all almost at max, but not over! Obviously the combo isn't "Ram Rated" for 32k but that's obviously has more to do with the transmission choice. The Aisin 3.73 is rated for over 32k so the only difference is the trans. I guess with my cooler I'm hoping for "Max Tow Manual"! Time will tell but that thing ain't getting hot! Heat will NOT be the problem! lol

 

[RVTRKN]

Yup, you did the right thing. Even if you baby the G56 it will overheat. My truck runs at 10.5K GVW and it runs hot. I wished I knew this as brand new, otherwise !,$;: the warranty.

 

[Brian Criste]

That was kind of my decision too. I knew if it did fail under warranty a reman unit was going it. Ram wouldn't have put a brand new trans in it so who knows the true condition of the unit. I figured, there is usually nothing better than OEM original. I drove it for about 10 k miles never towing too heavy and babied it (I mean REALLY babied it) when it was even moderately heavy (24k or so). Once I felt comfortable there where no factory defects, I change to the Mobil fluid and drove for another 2k miles to make sure it was happy with that. Then I put the Southbend DD clutch and the cooler. Now at 20k, it works awesome. I'm honestly pretty excited to see what the next 200k yields!
I'm still considering deleting it but if I do, it will be cosmetically correct, quiet, and will be a near stock power tune. Again, mainly in the neighborhood of longevity. My driving is either super easy and empty with a decent amount of idle time (Florida, I ain't shutting it off and sweating like mad!), not a lot, but enough that it concerns me, or loaded extremely heavy for both work and play. 20K+ anytime it's hooked to a trailer for the most part.