The Rebuild Begins!

[Moab4x4]

I finally tore the truck apart this week! All sheet metal in front of the cowl is off. Transfer case, 518, and engine are out. (I have 9 egg cartons of nuts and bolts so far. I left the transmission on the engine and pulled them together and it worked great. (Oh yeah, it was a lot easier to pull the engine after the head was removed. )



The top end of the engine is pretty well disassembled but I got stuck. I put a small puller on the gear for the vacuum pump but it wouldn't move. Do I just add more force, or is there something I need to do to get the gear off? I assume that I just put a puller on the injection pump gear.



Question? From your experiences, what should I look for to fix as long as the truck is disassembled? Here is what I have at this point:



Fix cowl cracks, fix or replace steering gear bracket because of the crack, install guages, replace front driveshaft seal in transfer case, replace rear seal on transmission.



I recently went through the rear end, front king pins, brakes, and electrical stuff.



Items on the table, New TQ for transmission (which one?), 4" exhaust, POD's or DDP stage III's, 3200 GSK. I had to rebuild the turbo and HTT talked me into a stage II build. I'd like ~ 300 HP, mostly for fun, 4 wheel a little, sometimes haul a car on a trailer or tow a 20' travel trailer. I might occasionally tow my backhoe (14k) with it (slowly).

I'm taking lots of digital pictures as I take things apart, I hope I'm taking enough.



I would appreciate any ideas, pitfalls, things to look out for, etc. (and how to talk my wife into all the goodies. ) :-laf

 

[dpuckett]

Vacuum pump comes off from the rear of the gear housing- take out 2 bolts, and it falls out. You have to unplug the oil pressure sending unit and the p/s pump comes out with the vacuum pump.



I didnt see a KDP tab in your list.



Daniel

 

[bgilbert]

I would point my attention to the rebuild of the engine first before any of the other stuff you mentioned. That is unless someone else is rebuilding it. Turbo, injectors, gov spring, that stuff is easy and can be done later. Plus all the machine work, pistons, etc are gonna take up your $$. Inputs and outputs of the transfer case and transmission could be looked at, taken care of if needed. Upgrade the flexplate with a newer 2nd gen Cummins flexplate. I believe from a 95 is the one we want.

 

[Moab4x4]

Water in the Crank & need a cam

Motor is completely torn down now and I got a little education. :{

I blew the HG and mixed oil and water last fall and didn't have time to build it till now. I drained everything, but there was water trapped IN the crank under two main caps. Rusted crank. :{ Lesson learned. I should have filled it with fresh oil and assembled it enough to crank it over and pump the water out. Who would have guessed it? Now I have to turn the mains.



Cam has two lobes worn through the hard layer on both the cam and lifters. I guess I needed that new PDR grind anyway, right?????

How do you spell MONEY PIT?

I guess when its all over, I will know the whole truck though.



BTW Thanks Daniel, I missed the support bracket under the PS pump. It then fell apart as you said.

 

[TKingsbury]

That cam looks good compared to the last couple we have taken out of our shuttle buses at work. Picture half of the lobe gone and the lifter being concave.

Travis. .

 

[Moab4x4]

Cam Wear

So is this cam pitting from wear and use or casting flaws in the cam or lifter. I have seen pretty sorry cams from early 70's mopars and my machinist told me that many came that way from the factory. If that is so, do I really need the new cam? My lifters are slightly concave, you can see the circle on the lifter. I can adjust that out by adjusting the valves. The cam is another story. I'll mic the lobes and see how different the pitted one is to the others.

Thanks,

Ken

 

[TKingsbury]

I would replace it. Get the PDR cam, it sounds better than stock. The ones we have pulled out went in the scrap bin.

Travis. .