thermostst

[Randy Hutton]

What does the rubber ring, "Inner Seal" do besides get into te thermostat and cause it to never close?

Randy

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95-2500-ExtCab-LB-4x4-Auto-AMSoil Air Filter, Bypass Oil Filter by others, AMSOIL and Mobil Synthetics, TST 255HP and TransGO Shift kit .

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Randy,

Its prevents coolant from leaking from between the housing and the engine lift bracket. Its also there to prevent unwanted coolant from flowing around the T-Stat. Both seals prevent leakage.

Are you talking about the rubber seal that has the shoulder, or the square cut o-ring?

I have had my T-stat housing apart many times. I have not seen any evidence that the o-ring interferes with the operation of the T-stat. It stays in place.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong?



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 02-20-2001). ]

 

[gitchesum]

I think he's talking about the rubber arond the bottom of the thermostat itself. Mine was half gone when I changed it last. Not sure what it's for

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Curtis Harris
1997 3500 Club Cab
"CASPER"
Check out the Lone Star TDR

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Oh Ok,

D/C revised the T-stat in '94 to address the overcooling problems associated with the larger capacity cooling system on the 2nd generation trucks. They said the smallest particles can hold the T-stat partially open. The smallest opening/flow of coolant of coolant to the larger radiator with the increased coolant capacity can be the culprit in overcooling.

The new t-stat, called a "soft seal" t-stat, there is a rubber coating on the t-stat edge that closes to the t-stat flange to insure it is "closed" when it is closed.


Out of TDR issue # 7 #ad


Randy, If you have bigtime overcooling problems, Take off your engine fan. I did and the truck runs no hotter or colder without the fan. I have to block the radiator 90% to get the coolant temp to 190 degrees. Temps were in the 40's here today. Radiator blocked, no fan, no problems.

If you are interested in running "fanless" see these threads first: https://www.turbodieselregister.com/ubb//Forum1/HTML/002851.html https://www.turbodieselregister.com/ubb//Forum1/HTML/003078.html

Bill R
94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust, Autometer Pyro, Boost & Water temp gauges, Bosch 215 HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7º, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit, Scotty Air, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Optima Red Tops, Geno's Exhaust Blanket, Espar Heater (won it!), Synthetic lubes throughout.



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 02-20-2001). ]

 

[ray1933]

Randy... The large rubber gasket has a small lip and it broke of the main gasket and stuck in the thermostst and would not let it close. Therfore it ran very cool all the time. It happend on a trip to Portland and I stopped at the Dodge dealer in Pendelton, OR and he said it would hurt not to finish my trip over and back. The service manager told he was sure that was the problem and it was. I changed it when I got back home. Also there is a difference in the D/C thermostst
and one you buy at a NAPA dealer, that is besides the price. The NAPA ones are 180 but will not open till it hits around 200 on the first trip of the day, after it opens the first time it cycles just right.

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95 3/4 4x4 5 Spd K&N Air Filter 106,758Ride Rite Air Overloads
10 1/2 Cabover Camper

 

[Randy Hutton]

I am talking about a thin tubular piece that was caught inside the thermostat, causing it never to close, not sure you could have ran truck hard enough to get it to heat up. wont know if i fixed it until tommorrow morning. I installed a new thermostat and left this pian in but out this time. ( I did install the large rubber part that seals the bracket and housing).
If i can figure out how to put a pic in here, i will take one tomorrow and post it.
Thanks,
Randy

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95-2500-ExtCab-LB-4x4-Auto-AMSoil Air Filter, Bypass Oil Filter by others, AMSOIL and Mobil Synthetics, TST 255HP and TransGO Shift kit .