These u-joints SUCK

[RMalone]

I'm fit to be tied, I am currently haveing ALL u-joints on my truck replaced. Fine, I have 60k and they really shouldn't ALL be going bad but I can live with it. Now my mechanic says the wheel bearings (which seem to work fine) are putting up a big fight comeing out (necessary to replace the outers) if they don't come out with a few days of oil soaking and some well placed heat they will need to be busted out (front wheel bearings=$365 per side for parts). So this could turn into a $1500+ job. And gentlemen I really hate when that kind of money doesn't buy me some HP.



The mechanic in question is a high school freind of 20yrs, and I have seen and felt the condition of the u-joints, so I don't think anyone is trying to screw me, it just sucks!



Sorry about the rant guys but I feel better now.

 

[jwilliams3]

So thats about $600 labor?



I hope you go greasable or you'll be in the same boat with the U joints in another 50k or so (if that).

 

[Slow Six]

You are right, these u joints are junk. In my case also a lack of grease. There are several posts on removing the front axles without removing the bearing assembly and risking damaging it. I followed the suggestions and changed the axle joints easily. Be sure to have anti seize to use before reassembly. When you do the search you will also see that most of us have gone to the Precision greaseables. I am hoping they will last longer than the originals. This is not a Dodge problem. Around here the Rocks and Fords are the same.

 

[rbattelle]

There are several posts on removing the front axles without removing the bearing assembly and risking damaging it.

Really? I missed that... how's it done?



-Ryan

 

[RMalone]

Well perhaps I am exagerating the labor costs for u-joint overhaul, but still $1200 is not out of line, assuming wheel bearing need to be replaced. The book calls for 5hrs on the drivers side wheel bearing and 1. 5hrs on the passenger side. I didn't ask how much labor hrs on the u-joints themselves. And I agree with the above post that chebby and furd have the same problems. According to my mech the Fords are terrible on wheel bearings. It just seems like we could expect heavy duty u-joints and wheel-bearings to go along with our heavy duty Cummins.

 

[BBRam]

I have had u-joint problems myself (rear shaft at 16k) A greasable joint may last longer? but they are not as strong due to the grease passages.

 

[Slow Six]

I may have worded my post wrong. The bearing assembly has to be removed but it does not have to be taken off the axle shaft. The whole thing can come out in one piece. It is a little more awkward to handle but avoids the problem of removing the bearing assembly from the shaft.

 

[jwilliams3]

You are not going to break a greasable U joint with normal abuse or wear.

That myth of greasable U joints being weak was started with gasser engines that have mini U joints.

Having grease passages in a joint the size of the ones that come on our 6 speed trucks does not hurt them.

In fact I have over 10 hooks to the sled with the greasables and they are as tight as day one.

 

[rbattelle]

The bearing assembly has to be removed but it does not have to be taken off the axle shaft.

Phew! Now that makes sense. I just couldn't imagine removing the axle without removing the bearing!



-Ryan

 

[BBRam]

OK JW, Define normal abuse and wear!!!!IYO. And it's not a myth, BEEN THERE DONE THAT!!! (Just my opinion from my experience)

 

[ZRacer]

At 52,000 miles I had to replace the rear joint on my truck. Bought one from NAPA-their best one for $28. 00 US. It has a grease fitting in the cap- conical V-type. So far so good.



As far as the front axle joints go mine are fine now, however a friend at work had to replace his. He ended up cutting the old ones out with a torch and replacing them with the stock joints. He didn't remove the axles from the diff. The stock Mopars will go back in easily but aftermarket ones wouldn't go back in unless you pull the shafts out of the diff. When it comes time to replace mine, I will probably try doing the same but I will drill and tap the caps for the same type of grease fitting that's on my rear joint.



If somebody needs the NAPA part # for the rear joint, let me know. I still have the reciept.