Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Things to look for in a 95 2500 CTD

[Willys]

I happened to find a 95 2500 ext. cab 4x4 auto today for sale. I have a 96, and am familiar with the 98 12v. What should I look for on the 95 that is specific for that year? I think its a 160 pump... How would it be to turn it up a hair, maybe 300 hp? What would be a typical range of selling prices for a truck of this year?



I don't know many details about the truck yet- the trans was recently rebuilt(by dodge I think), new tires, 200-250k miles.



Thanks.

 

[DieselMinded]

Here's some reading



http://www.dodgedieseldatabase.com/buyers_guide.htm



Its a work in process... .....



DM

 

[Joe G.]

The only significant differences between the '95 and '96 is the transmission governor and the'96 has a little more power. The '94 and '95 have 47RH transmissions. Later 12 valve trucks have 47RE. The RH has a fly weight governor that controls governor pressure. The RE does it with electronics that manipulate a solenoid to control governor pressure. The RE has a four land switch valve in the VB instead of the three land switch in the RH. This makes the OD and TCC lockup act a little differently.

 

[Willys]

Thanks guys, that was some help in figuring out this truck. I bought it today, so I'm sorting through a few things still. It has 4. 1 gears, which I didn't realize the first time I drove it. I'm glad to have them, 3. 54 is too high for my uses as a work truck.



Some things to look into:

-Warning lamps on dash- brake, abs, water in fuel, fuel gauge on empty, windshield washer fluid low(know how to fix MOST of these... )

-needs new valve cover gaskets- they're very leaky.

-Unsure about the KDP. There is some leakage around the front cover, but its mostly seepage- I'll find out soon enough.

-Misc. things out of adjustments.

-Sticking tailgate

-batteries leaked on fenders, needs to be cleaned up.

-I don't feel like its getting full throttle...

-vacuum line is toast from battery acid



Good stuff:

-New tires

-Trans. replaced 30k miles ago, and it shifts stronger than my '96.

-4. 10 gears.

-drives straight, with the exception of a slight pull to the right while driving

-geartrain doesn't leak much

-has the NP241HD!!



Joe G. I'm not sure what the 'land switch valves' do? I've heard the RH is a little stronger stock(shafts). I'd like to tweak the engine a little, but only a hair. Probably slide the plate or a slightly more aggressive one(after gauges ).

 

[surfbeetle]

fuel guage on empty is a bad tank sending unit. I have had my 95 since new... things that were recalled: rear brakes, ignition relay, screw holes in the back of the steering wheel, frayed throttle and cruise control cables, vacuum line for brake booster, leaky back window. There's probably more, its late and I don't remember.

 

[Willys]

fuel guage on empty is a bad tank sending unit. I have had my 95 since new... things that were recalled: rear brakes, ignition relay, screw holes in the back of the steering wheel, frayed throttle and cruise control cables, vacuum line for brake booster, leaky back window. There's probably more, its late and I don't remember.

Thanks! I'm familiar with some of those recalls/issues- but not the rear brakes, ignition relay, screw holes in the steering wheel , vacuum lines for the brake booster?



I'm researching how to fix the sending unit. I replaced mine on my 96, after having driven it several years based on the trip odometer. The replacement has lasted so far, and the original is on the shelf. I'll see if I can mod it and throw in the 95 today. Its funny how the 5 dodge/cummins trucks my family owns, ALL 5 have had the fuel sending unit go out... Some llinks for modifying the unit:



http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/fuel_sender/sender.htm

http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/fuel_sender/sender-diy.htm



I fixed the leak in my 96 brake light by making a gasket with camper shell tape. It was a temporary fix, but has worked the last several months. There are other leaks, I had quite a few. I made a detailed post on it a while back. Its a big problem with the Ram trucks, but they're not the only ones- my friends nearly new '02 Nissan Frontier had water in the brake light housing a few days after buying it. Now he shouldn't rat on my leaky dodge... :-laf



I just remembered www.dodgeram.org has the recalls/TSB listed.



http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1995-index.htm Oo.

 

[surfbeetle]

The steering wheel hole issue had to do with 94's and early 95's. If you had a keyring with alot of keys, the holes on the backside of the steering wheel could catch the keys in a turn and shut off the ignition.



The rear brakes were I believe under a TSB rather than a recall, they replaced everything with one ton units rather than the smaller 3/4 ton.



The ignition relay was a recall. The dealer would wire in some relay because of a fire hazzard.



The vacuum lines for the brake booster is a problem because oil can get into the vacuum line from the vacuum pump and cause the booster hose to collapse and no boost gets to the master cylinder. The recall installed a check valve before the hose.

 

[Joe G.]

Willys,



The difference in the switch valves has to do with how the lockup works. The 47RH will not lock up with the truck stopped if you turn on a manual lock up switch (aka mystery switch). The 47RE will kill the engine if you do that. If you are using a switch sometimes you have to lift to get the TCC to lock. That depends on RPM and governor pressure. If you are gaining speed after a stop you can turn on the switch in 3rd and nothing will happen. It will shift to lockup shortly after OD engages. If you are not using a manual lockup switch you probably won't notice any difference in behavior. Do a little experimenting if you use a switch so you know what will happen. After it locks up it behaves the same as the RE.

 

[Willys]

This is a new trans, with 30k miles on it. I'm not sure it who built it, not DC... I'll find out Monday who the builder is and what TC was used. I doubt it was a high dollar aftermarket, but I'm hoping. Do you think a lockup switch would be advisable to use on this? Right now the most I ever tow on a regular basis is about 3-4k lbs. Occasionally I'll tow heavier loads for shorter distances. Eventually I'll get a skidsteer, and then I'll upgrade the VB and TC, probably refresh the rest of the trans too. I'm not using a lockup switch in the '96 as it is still original, and I'm not sure how the TCC lining would take it. I'd like to get it built but my money tree hasn't bloomed yet.



Right now I'm trying to concentrate on the KDP- there is a lot of grease on the front case. It looks like a combination of bad cover seal and old style valve cover gaskets. Its not blowing out oil like my dad's 98 when he lost the KDP.



surfbeetle, I'm checking into the TSB's and recalls, thanks for posting that info.

 

[Joe G.]

If you have an exhaust brake then you have to have a way to lockup the TCC for braking or the exhaust brake is worthless. Smart controllers don't work with a 47RH so you have to use a switch or trick the TPS. The governor is hydraulic so electronics are not involved except for OD and TCC lockup. I use my exhaust brake a lot, but don't let mine shift with the TCC locked.

 

[Willys]

I don't have an E-brake, and won't be pulling any big hills any time soon, so I'll leave it how it is.



I need to find some parts for this soon, though. Front timing cover gasket(going to tab the KDP), 6 valve cover gaskets, timing pin seal/o-ring(for my '96), fuel heater/prefilter o-rings, fuel supply/return lines(questionable shape right now). Any good sources for these parts?(not a big fan of the 'local' cummins distributor)



Also, I washed it this weekend. There is a muddy splash mark on the lower panels of the cab. I thought it was mud until I washed it. Its concrete or mortar I think. Is there any way to remove this stuff without ruining the paint? Eventually it will get some body work and repainted, but that will still be a while.



EDIT: Also... the backup lights aren't work. Neither is the 4x4 lamp on the dash(does a 95 even have one?). I'm hoping its a connector on the transfer case or transmission. I've looked under but haven't noticed anything obvious. Anyone know offhand what color wires to look for, and where the connectors plug? Thanks!

 

[Joe G.]

Willys,



The backup light switch is in the same connector as the neutral/park starter disable switch. It's on the driver's side of the transmission just behind the shift lever. It's round with three wires. The 4X4 switch for the dash light is part of the vacuum thing on the front axle that connects the axles when it's in 4X4. You could have corroded connectors so you really need the service manual so you can trace the circuits from connector to connector. I had a corroded connector that messed up the ground to the lights in the rear.

 

[Willys]

Thanks Joe! I'll look at it some more tomorrow. I wonder how much of my dad's '98 FSM applies to my '95. Quite a bit applies to the '96.

 

[MBreyer]

Interesting discussion,



I'm on my way tomorrow to pick up a 94. We currently have a 95(gas) and an 01; neither of our current trucks will show the 4x4 light, though it dies work in both trucks...



Thanks for the info.



~Matt

 

[Fred Swanson]

The DTT smart controller does work on the 94-95's. I've installed quite a few with success. On some the TPS signal was weak, so we had to amplify it.

 

[Andy Redmond]

Willy's remove the ds battery and see if the battery hold down bolt nearest the fender pierced the wire loom. If so, most of your lights that should work and those that don't might be solved, by wiring repair.



Many that use a lower profile battery (Optima and others) forget to trim the hold down bolt off a 1/2-3/4" and will throw grounds to so many features.



Federal Mogul offers replacement parts.



You might need the wear sleeve from Cummins and the larger id seal to stop the front cover leak if the crank is badly scored. Probably a good idea to remove and locktite the gear housing bolts while the front cover is off.



The backup lamp circuit uses a black wire with a purple tracer. At the transmission, then at the connector under the ds floorpan, just behind the inner fender. . etc. .



Most of what is in a 94-97 manual is the same except minor differences as the 94-95 with the exception of the transmission and trans. wiring that Joe G pointed out to you.



The 98 should have many differences. Geno's has a good price on the older manuals. .



Good luck

Andy

 

[DBrickel]

Don't know if someone mentioned this. I skimmed the previous replys but may have missed it. There was a recall on the shock towers cracking on the 4x4s also