2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Thinking about Buying a 2nd Gen - Questions

[JFitzgerald]

My crew cab CTD conversion may be going up for sale, along with my '97 Dodge 1500 ext. cab. I'd like to replace them with a 2nd gen 2500, 4WD, extended/quad cab with manual trans. I'm familiar with the 1st gens, had a '93 W250, then this crew cab. I like the looks and interior of the 1500 I have and the room in the back seat is not bad. I bought it to keep the crew cab out of the salt, and now would rather consolidate to one newer truck. I'm thinking a 12 valve would suit me best, but am open to a 24 valve, since I like the idea of the quad cab and the 98 12 valves aren't easy to find. My price range probably falls into the '96 - '99 year range.



Just wondering what things I should watch for when looking. Thanks.

 

[rblomquist]

I'd say get a mechanical FP test set and have that and the shrader valve to go with and test any prospect's LP pressures. It's a 5 minute job (or less) on the 98. 5/99 to hook up and test right from the fuel filter canister.



You already said you're looking for a manual trans so that pretty much takes care of a huge potential problem (auto trans unknowns).



Check for weepage out of the water pump hole, and definetly check the condition of the front rotors. Odds are, the rear brakes will be like new so the life left on the front rotors is definetly an arguable issue from a haggle standpoint. It's not cheap to get the front brakes done on these trucks.



Check the manifold for loose or missing studs, signs of exhaust leakage aroudn the gaskets; if any of those are present look real hard for cracks in the manifold. You may want a little mirror thingy to look up under the manifold in the center because a lot of them crack under there 1st then spread over to the top.



A lot of infinity equipped 98. 5's and 99 had problems with the right door speaker going out, might want to check for that as well (hey, every little thing adds to your haggle standpoint).



I guess you could also check around the #6 cylinder for cracks and/or leaks in the freeze plug.



A CARFAX report and/or a maintenance history (from a dealer by VIN) may be useful as well.



Good luck.

 

[NIsaacs]

Since you are wanting a truck with a manual trans. , I would recommend the 6-spd. trucks. The 99's are hard to find, they also had some trouble with the input shaft, but in 2000 they fixed the problem with a bigger one. They also have a 13" clutch, a'nother plus. If you can, try to get the 01, HO, it is the oldest and cheepest of the HO, 6-spd's. If brute power is what you are after, then get a late model 12-valve. With an EdgeEZ, and 275 inj. the 24-V runs dang good, and has a wider, more gas like power band. I also recommend the 3. 55's over the 4. 10's. Even towing, I like to run the RPM's on the low side, and with the 6-spd the ratio's are better. Good luck in your choice





"IF IT AIN'T CUMMINS POWERED, IT AIN'T A TRUCK"





"NICK"

 

[JFitzgerald]

Thanks for the great info, guys. I think a 12V is the way I want to go, but we'll see. Since you brought up the gears, I have to ask another question. My '93 had 3. 54's. It did the job well, but was no comparison to the way my crew cab with 4. 10's pulls a load. This truck, with less fuel mods, stock timing, still an 18 cm housing and no intercooler (early '91 engine) pulls much stronger. Pulling about 13-14K (gooseneck trailer and load) it just never seems to be working very hard, even in the hills in southern IN. The 3. 54's would be better for my daily driving, but I wonder if I'd be sorry when I'm towing. Maybe the P-pumped 12V would make enough more power to offset this?



What parts & money does it take to bump a P-pumped 12V to say, 300HP? 350?

 

[EBottema]

Get a 12v and maybe later to a 6spd conversion and stick with the 3:54...



Erik

 

[AHughes]

The one item the rest of the guys didn't mention check the block casting number. It's on the drivers side just above the oil pan flange. You don't want a #53 block if you have a choice although there are lots of #53 blocks out there without any troubles up to 600 hp. I have one and so far so good!!!

98. 5 QC LB VanAAken AFE F1 Mach1. 0 injectors Mag Hi Tech covers font & Rear DTT converter and VB 85K LovinIt!

 

[JFitzgerald]

Thanks for the tip. What is the problem with the #53 block?

 

[EBottema]

Blocks were made by some mooks in Brazil and the outside of the block would develop a crack in it. You would soon discover some leaking antifreeze under the truck... People have found that the block can't be fixed and you need to get a new one, stay away from them if possible



Erik

 

[JFitzgerald]

OK, thanks again.



Just put my truck in the classifieds.

 

[BNH4221]

Don't forget the KDP on the 12v...



Steve

98 12v QC 4x4

 

[tractorface]

Love hate with my 24v

I wish I had a 12 valve. 24valves have too many fuel related problems. If you are a former 12v guy you will be real happy with the 24v until your spending $$$$ for a tow and VP repairs. Just say no. Oh yeah, I have attached a pic of my truck.

 

[Neibe]

Get the 4:10 you can always go to a taller tire say a 235/85/16

 

[Mopar Man1]

Speakin for a buddy. He hates his Dodge. He loves the motor and transmission. Thats it. The rest of the trucks are worthless. Lets say he will never by another dodge. He ll by a CTD and put it in a Cevrolet. Hes tryin to sell his now. It needs all new front end stuff as tie rod, ball joints, shocks, stablizer, prolly more. The door is breakinroudn the hinge. It aint worth the hastle to keep a piece of crap up. Hed sume to pay more for gas than pull his truck with his dodge. For atruck with 140,000 miles it shouldnt be fallin apart. He says a gasser is the only way.

 

[BNH4221]

Speakin for a buddy. He hates his Dodge. He loves the motor and transmission. Thats it. The rest of the trucks are worthless. Lets say he will never by another dodge. He ll by a CTD and put it in a Cevrolet. Hes tryin to sell his now. It needs all new front end stuff as tie rod, ball joints, shocks, stablizer, prolly more. The door is breakinroudn the hinge. It aint worth the hastle to keep a piece of crap up. Hed sume to pay more for gas than pull his truck with his dodge. For atruck with 140,000 miles it shouldnt be fallin apart. He says a gasser is the only way.

Um, OK. Speak to your buddy and tell him to knock himself out.



Steve

98 QC 12v 4x4

170000 miles. Just broken in.

 

[JFitzgerald]

There are lemon stories with every brand. There are also trucks that are not well cared for, and people who are hard to please. When I was younger and more closed minded, I thought Chevy was the only truck I'd ever buy, and I did have a lot of them. Then I bought a '93 W250, mainly because of the CTD, and loved it. Since then I sold it with 150K, and bought this crew cab Chevy with CTD. I wanted to keep the Chevy out of the salt, so I bought a second truck last fall. Went looking for a good deal and found a '97 Dodge Club Cab SLT 1/2 ton 2WD, 318 auto. I have been nothing but satisfied with it. It has 144K on it now. This is one truck I have not had to work on. It just goes. Granted, it is not strong enough to do what my Chevy can, but it works for a daily driver. So, I think I'll be satisfied with a 2nd gen CTD truck if I shop for a nice one, as I would with any other used vehicle purchase.

 

[kess]

John,

Hey if I were you I would buy 12v. You can still find a good one that has been taken care of. Granted, you may have to pay a fair price but I think it is worth it. I know this is what I would have done, if I would have known about this forum before I bought my 2000. Not that I am not satisfied with my truck, it has been great, but I like the thought of no computer for the long haul. I have 60,000 miles on my truck, but if the chance came along to sell and buy a 12v, I may have to take it. Also, if you buy a 24v Jeremy (Case500D) probably will not respect you anymore.

Later,

Kess

 

[JFitzgerald]

Hi Kess, how have you been? I'm thinking along the same lines. And I'd hate to be frowned upon by Jeremy.



Once I sell my crew cab, I'll be looking hard for a nice 12V. They are out there, I just might have to travel a bit to get the right one.