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Thinking of going to a 3rd gen

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AH64ID, don't forget about the C&C's in 06. 5 to present with the 305 HP, 6. 7 version of the C&C, I forgot what the TQ is, and are equiped with the G56 or the 6spd auto Aison trany's



They are 305/610. . and yeah I did forget about them! 6. 7L only, even with the 2006 release as a MY07 (Listed in the 06 catalogs as a MY07).
 
I had forgotten that the auto equipted trucks have the same hp or more than the manuals, this of course is the opposite of the 2nd gen trucks which is why I wanted nothing but a manual trans. Maybe I should look into an auto. Are these any good? Do they seem to hold up well in stock form or do you have to get them built? Does the 6. 7 come with the exhaust brake on an auto as well?

I drove a friend of mines duramax with an allison, and I have to admit that is a nice transmission, I wish dodge had that with the cummins.
 
Yeah all trucks have the same HP these days, just a difference in tq from 07. 5+ for auto vs manual.

All 6. 7's have the EB, its part of the turbo. 06+ 5. 9's are OEM authorized for an EB.

The auto's seem to do okay with non-abusive driving up to about 60hp over stock, same as the G56 DMF, and the NV5600 can hold about 100 (for a while).
 
If I hadn't attempted a 30psi launch in 4high, my transmission would still be running just fine.

The 68rfe is a good trans, and it'll hold up to a lot more than 60hp over stock. Stock is what, 350? My truck should be putting closer to 500hp to the ground and the trans was holding perfectly well, even with a 44k pound sled pull and 14k+ pound trailer towing.



Don't drink the kool-aid - the GM built trans (aka Allison 1000) behind the Duramax is no better than what Dodge built with the 68rfe.
 
When did they come out with the 68rfe trans? Is there any problem areas with these trucks that I should look for while I am shopping? I found a 08 with an auto that saids about like I want, might go look at it. An auto would be easier on the drivetrain than a manual, you can also build an auto to take more power, unlike a manual.
 
07. 5 MY, is when they coupled the 68rfe to the 6. 7 CTD. Do a title search on that 08 for any issue's, or for a lemon law buy back. The early 6. 7's had a lot of turbo issues and other related DPF issue's when D/C first came out the 6. 7 CTD.
 
If you do a delete kit on the dpf and egr does that seem to clear up the main problems with the 6. 7? I know you need a tuner as well for that and some people have had problems as I seen in tdr this month. I have a friend who has a 07. 5 with the 6. 7 and g56 and he is looking at unloading it for that duramax that he looked at. That Dodge has made him so made. He has had emissions problems, ball joints, rear driveshaft, it needs a real clutch in. When that truck is running right it tows a heavy trailer like it is a paper weight, and I like the redesinged cab and so forth. If I can find the right 3rd gen I think I will get one, even with the problems he has had I think they still are better than the durmax and ford.
 
Every Dodge I have owned has been trouble free, even my 07 C&C 6. 7 with the G56. The only thing I don't like about it, is when it was reflashed in 09, it changed the regen program, so now I have no power until 2000 RPM then it will take off like a bat out of hell until the regen is over, then its back to a good running CTD. I would buy another in a heart beat if they didn't cost 50K. :eek:
 
Ifound an 09 with the g56 at the local Dodge dealer. I also found a 07 5. 9, 07 6. 7, and an 08 6. 7 all autos at another local dealer not Dodge. Would the 09 have the emission flashes? I might do some test driving this weekend.
 
More than likely it has the new regen programing for 09, I never had any issues when in regen until that flash in 09. For what its worth my C&C only has 305 HP, so maybe its different with the regular version 350/610 with the G56?
 
Ifound an 09 with the g56 at the local Dodge dealer. I also found a 07 5. 9, 07 6. 7, and an 08 6. 7 all autos at another local dealer not Dodge. Would the 09 have the emission flashes? I might do some test driving this weekend.
The 48re is a good trany if taken care of and no programmers added on to the 5. 9 CTD, but I would not purchase it. Unless your willing to upgrade it with a lot of cash, I would go for a 09 or later 6. 7/68rfe if the auto is your preference, but the early 6. 7 had some issues. Cummins seems to have perfected the regen, and also run the EB all the time to help keep the VVT ring from freezing up due to soot building up.
 
How do you tell the HO motor from the SO motor in the 03-04 trucks. Found an 04 with 6 speed, going to go look at it. Also how do you tell if it is the 325 horse engine, I guess it could be that to?
 
The best way to tell which engine (ho/so) is to look at the tag on the drivers side of the engine.

"If you do a delete kit on the dpf and egr does that seem to clear up the main problems with the 6. 7? "


Pretty much. After that, it's just ball joints (ymmv, but I'm at 65k miles with heavy towing, sled pulling, drag racing, etc and mine are still fine) and other minor stuff.
 
Like it was said, on the left side of the valve cover (plastic part) it'll say ISB305... . Bla bla, and the hp will say Advertised HP @ 2900, "305", at least thats what mine has, I think also the 8th digit is a "C" on the HO truck Vin #
 
How do you tell the HO motor from the SO motor in the 03-04 trucks. Found an 04 with 6 speed, going to go look at it. Also how do you tell if it is the 325 horse engine, I guess it could be that to?



6 speed is HO, look at the valve cover to find if its a 305 or 325.
 
The HO @ 325hp came out in 2004. 5 models. Like said above, the data plate located on engine driver side will say "325 or 305". Hope this helped.

Mark
 
I finally got to go look at the 04 today. It is a 325 ho motor with the cat. Nice running truck, smooth and quiet compared to the old 12 valve. Has 94000 miles, 6 speed dually slt. Not to bad of shape, price seems high compared to blue book, $29000!!! Blue Book shows $24000. Dealer says they are hard to come by. Not the cleanest on the underside, has light surface rust, not bad but still for that money seems like to much. What do you guys think?
 
Not knowing all the options, NADA says it should be closer to $22k for clean retail.

If you like the truck, I'd get your financing in line and go in and make a reasonable offer. "My bank says I'm approved for $24k for that truck out the door, make the numbers work" or something along those lines. Would you be trading your truck in? Due to age and potential mileage (I don't remember what you've got) they may not want your truck, or they may WAY lowball you so they can turn a profit sending it to the auction. It might be easier to just be able to write a check versus hassling with them over the trade amount.
 
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