THIS is ree-gol-durn-diculous!!!

[boatpuller]

Grey Wolf,

You got the seal mount bolted to the back of the engine unbolted without removing the adapter plate?



Looked to me like you just put screws into seal and pulled it out.

I didn't like the idea of driving a seal in around the crank, I took the mount off so I could install the seal into the holder with a press and then slide the seal onto the crank and bolt the holder back up.



Caleb

 

[Grey Wolf]

boatpuller,



I cheated, I used my sons (works at Cummins) installer. I put the seal in place and the tool bolts to the crankshaft, as you tighten it the seal is sent home to the right depth

 

[boatpuller]

That sounds like a great way to do it if you have the tool, I'm just kind of leary of me a hammer and machined surfaces, I also only took my transmission back about 5" so didn't have much room to swing a hammer.



Caleb

 

[Grey Wolf]

I understand. The install tool that comes with Cummins seal looked a little flimsy to me and that's when I talked to him about using the tool that he has!

 

[btoscano]

What's the adapter plate? Does it allow the 727 to bolt up to the back of the Cummins? Will I need to remove it?



Am I correct in thinking the only seal or gasket I will "need" when doing the entire transmission swap job is the rear main seal since I hope to change it while the trans it out?



Thanks,

Brian

 

[PPeters]

Daniel:



Just a caution, when R&R'ing the seal, check the endplay on the crank. If you recall my recent seal replacement, my crank is . 006 over on endplay, and so far no leaks, but I'm holding my breath. Don't really know if too much endplay can cause the seals to fail, but I'm sure it doesn't help



Pat

 

[dpuckett]

Seal was dry; it WAS the cam plug, like boatpuller suggested. GOt it replaced easily enough. Now having fits with the transmission. AFter throwing a nice litle fit last night after failing for the 12th time to get the input shaft into the pilot hole, I gave up (besides, I had run out of daylight, and it was time to be escaping the skeeters that pick you up and carry you off after dark. ). Fixing to go back out to it. I figure I'll try attaching the bellhousing to the transmission, then lining the transmission up to the engine. Worst it can do is not work.



Daniel

 

[Grey Wolf]

btoscano,

What's the adapter plate? Does it allow the 727 to bolt up to the back of the Cummins? Yes



Will I need to remove it? Not unless you want to replace the seal like boatpuller did.



Do you need anything else, I don't think so unless you have a problem with the cam plug leaking... ... ... ...

 

[btoscano]

Well, I was figuring on replacing the rear main seal because I'm getting a weeping... but maybe its the cam plug that's weeping, I didn't think of that. All of my other engines have had overhead cams...



-brian

 

[cartman]

camplug

Originally posted by dpuckett

Seal was dry; it WAS the cam plug, like boatpuller suggested. GOt it replaced easily enough. Now having fits with the transmission. AFter throwing a nice litle fit last night after failing for the 12th time to get the input shaft into the pilot hole, I gave up (besides, I had run out of daylight, and it was time to be escaping the skeeters that pick you up and carry you off after dark. ). Fixing to go back out to it. I figure I'll try attaching the bellhousing to the transmission, then lining the transmission up to the engine. Worst it can do is not work.



Daniel

puck were your cam plugs loose at all, on the few i have done two of the plugs fell out

 

[banzaitoyota]

hmmmmm, cam plug leak? where are the plugs and is transmission removal neccasary to service? John

 

[Grey Wolf]

The cam plug is behind the trans adapter and there is also a smaller oil gallery plug in the same area.

 

[phillips5]

Amen to what bob said. I think I drove my old seal in with the new seal till it stoped and have no leak for 200k miles so far.

 

[MRickard]

Originally posted by btoscano

Am I correct in thinking the only seal or gasket I will "need" when doing the entire transmission swap job is the rear main seal since I hope to change it while the trans it out?



Thanks,

Brian

Might be good to change the transmission's input seal if it is out, just to have a new one in it, unless it is really new already

 

[dpuckett]

cartman-

the plug wasnt loose per se, but it didnt take much effort to get out with the drilled hole and a #10 sheetmetal screw, either. I put the new one in, and dented the middle just like the guy at Cummins said to (I know, I took chance, listening to them); with the loctite i put on the outer edge, and then the silicone I globbed around the sealing edge after the loctite dried (and was installed), it SHOULDNT leak for another 280K...



bonzaitoyota-

Unfortunately, yes, you have to remove the transmission; along with the bellhousing, flywheel, flywheel adaptor, starter (optional) etc. basically get to the bare back of the block. It is an all day job if all goes well; 2-1/2 days if not



Put the bellhousing on the transmission, then everything slid together like it should. I guess the T. O. bearing, input shaft, and clutch splines werent lining up just right or something. Got it back together and running. Now for the flexplate on Mom's truck- it has a rattle/ticking like a quiet lifter (for an old Ford) on an old Ford gasser.



-DP