Here I am

Thoughts on where to put FP isolator

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Seized the turbo!! MOVED - TDR Admin

48RE shifting into OD vibration 2003

Status
Not open for further replies.
I've got my gauges (hopefully) coming to me and one of my concerns is where and how to mount the fuel pressure gauge isolator other than buying a tapped fuel filter lid from Geno's. Surely there's other ways to do this.



Any thoughts will be appreciated.
 
On the third gen trucks I have been mounting them on the plastic lip of Batter tray seems to work very well. Also I have found the best place to take fuel pressure is a banjo bolt on the inlet of CP3 pump.
 
KYLE4 said:
Also I have found the best place to take fuel pressure is a banjo bolt on the inlet of CP3 pump.



Kyle,



I'm getting ready to do some work on that particular banjo. When you're changing it out, are there any particular "tricks" you can offer to help with cleanliness whilst working with the CP-3?



Ryan
 
I mounted my isolator on the lip of the firewall, right under the hood, with a fuel line to the injector pump banjo. I think someone posted a photo of their installation some time back (maybe 9 months to a year ago).



The fuel filter cap installation is for an electric gauge sensor, something you can remove the wire from before unscrewing the cap for a filter change. It would be very inconvenient for a mechanical gauge installation, in my opinion.



Before messing with the fuel system I wiped down the top of the pump and everything nearby and above it and around where I ran the line with clean rags. I was especially careful to clean around the banjo bolt and, after breaking it loose, I wiped it off again to remove any dirt that may have broken off that I didn't get before. My engine was pretty clean to start with. If it had been dirtier I might have washed it off first. I have no idea if that was enough cleaning but either it was or I got lucky because I've had no problems.
 
rbattelle said:
Kyle,



I'm getting ready to do some work on that particular banjo. When you're changing it out, are there any particular "tricks" you can offer to help with cleanliness whilst working with the CP-3?



Ryan

It won't leak alot of fuel when you change it out just make sure you prime it after you change and replace the banjo seals the metal washers with rubber seals.
 
Badunit said:
I mounted my isolator on the lip of the firewall, right under the hood...

Ditto. I don't like the banjo directly on the CP3, I had a wicked vibration. I moved the banjo to the bottom of the fuel filter and no probs since. I got the banjo from Geno's, somewheres around $7-9.
 
The UPS man got me in trouble with the wife yesterday. She comes in after work and said (I was asleep on the couch) "Why is the UPS man here? Did you order something? Of course, you can never lie to your wife, if you love her, AND get away with it. I simply said (rubbing my eyes) "I dunno, maybe I did. " Well, I told her about the gauge order, which was a partial order yesterday, hopefully the boost and pyro are on their way as well. I still am finding a super hard time telling her that I bought the downloader and intake kit. Maybe she'll never know, even when it's puking smoke and pegging out the pyro :-laf . I will have to eventually tell her about all of this, just not right now, NO, RIGHT NOW IS NOT THE TIME TO TELL HER I SPENT UPWARDS OF A GRAND ON MY GOODIES :-{} .

Anywho, thanks for the replies and as soon as my other gauges come in I will do the install, probably like the one in the pic (FP gauge).
 
Cattletrkr said:
Ditto. I don't like the banjo directly on the CP3, I had a wicked vibration. I moved the banjo to the bottom of the fuel filter and no probs since. I got the banjo from Geno's, somewheres around $7-9.



Wicked vibration where ??
 
KYLE4 said:
Wicked vibration where ??

The whole thing vibrated like mad, lines, iso, gauge. Annoying while driving. Had to replace the first gauge after about 2 days. Autometer said it's because I was using it on a diesel, too high of pressure, whatever :rolleyes: . Not sure if the vibe killed the gauge, but this one's still working. Sound/vibe went up and down with rpm.



Edit: Yes, I had it on the correct line.
 
I mounted mine on the tab that sticks off the top of the firewall. It made some really wierd noises, but I put some insulation double sided tape on it, and the noises are gone. So I think you just need to add a little dampner between it and where ever you mount it to keep the vibes to a minimum.
 
Due to space/clearance issues, etc. , I mounted the isolator to my diprotocol gauge off of the intake horn with a simple bracket that I fabbed from some left-over angle iron and 1"x1/8" stock. It bolts underneath the dipstick end. It was really easy to make, and to route the (short) 18"? hose from the vp44 to the isolator, as this spot was directly above it. It doesn't get in the way or vibrate either. Plus I painted it JD construction yellow & it looks great. This was the easiest solution for me, b/c I couldn't mount it vertically AND securely anywhere else with the shrader to 1/8" npt hose that I bought. This was on a 2nd gen. but maybe it will be helpful anyways.
 
Will the over sized banjo bolts that Geno's sells for the 24v's work on the 3rd gen engines?. . I am planning on completly redoing my fuel pressure gauge setup when I get the FASS from my friend... What r yalls thoughts on the Westach fuel pressure gauge?. . Right now I have the pressure line for my current FP gauge comming off the cp3 (see pic in readers rigs) but I was planning on moving it to the bottom of the fuel filter canister using one of Geno's tappend banjo bolts... Then running one of the 18" fuel pressure lines from the banjo to the sending unit for the Westach... Can n e one think of n e possible problems with this set up?. . Looking for opinions other then my own cause I just dont trust myself some times... Sry for hijacking



Moose
 
Beware the FASS eliminates the supply line banjo's; it plumbs directly into the CP-3 (bypasses the stock canister).



-Ryan
 
So then what do u do with the stock filter canister. . WIF sensor. . etc?. . Wont taking all that off or disconnecting it set codes in the ECM?. . Is there n e way to tell which pump the unit has on it?. . My buddy cant remember if its the 95 or the 150. .



Moose
 
Moose said:
So then what do u do with the stock filter canister. . WIF sensor. . etc?. . Wont taking all that off or disconnecting it set codes in the ECM?. . Is there n e way to tell which pump the unit has on it?. . My buddy cant remember if its the 95 or the 150. .



Moose

As far as I know, the FASS doesn't set any codes or anything because you leave everything like the fuel heater and the WIF sensor connected. But since there's no fuel flowing through that canister they'll be unused. I have no idea how to tell what size pump it's got.



[Warning: personal opinion follows]

I think the FASS is a great idea, but would like to see a few changes. It would be nice if they used the stock cansiter so you could keep that little 300w fuel heater and the WIF sensor, then mount their improved filter between the stock canister and the CP-3. That fuel heater is nice for a little "peace of mind" for those who live in cold climates.

[Personal opinion done]



-Ryan :)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top