Thread Connections for Installing Frantz Filter

[Axion]

I have just acquired a Frantz By-Pass Filter off of eBay. I would like to start trying to figure out how I'm going to mount it in my truck. I am most likely going to build some sort of bracket that will attach to the battery box on the passenger side.



The biggest question I have is how do I figure out the threads I need? The filter did not come with any instructions so I have no way of knowing for sure. I think the two ports on the filter base are 1/8 NPT. On the engine's filter housing one of the two plugs on the top is accessable, is it 1/8 NPT as well? I have looked through the electronic service manual I got from Geno's, but can not find anywhere that states what the threads are. The return line will go into one of the Amsoil billet filler caps with the swivel already installed. I am hoping the swivel also requires 1/8 NPT. I am going to use 1/4" ID Aeroquip hose. Will that provide for enough flow?



Thanks very much in advance for any and all help. I will add to this thread as the install moves along. Hopefully some pictures will help anyone else that has yet to do an install like this. I will also post oil analysis results as time goes on. I have been doing oil samples since new (except for when the tech at the dealership forgot to fill the bottle for me! Twice!).

 

[rbattelle]

The ports atop the filter are 1/8 NPT. I can't speak to the Frantz.



Pipe fittings are pretty easy to get and come in a billion combinations. You shouldn't have any trouble adapting to what you need. Based on your questions I assume you have little or no experience with threaded connections. That's okay, there's plenty of opportunity to learn.



Without going into too much detail, the 4 most common American National Standard Taper Pipe Threads (NPT) sizes for use with small diameter pipe and tubing are 1/8-27, 1/4-18, 3/8-18, and 1/2-14. Note there is also Dryseal American Standard Taper Pipe Thread (NPTF) which is sized the same as NPT threading but is a higher-quality thread that will seal pressure without the need for any sealant.



To help you identify the threads you have, a rough rule of thumb is that an 1/8 NPT port will be 1/4" in diameter; a 1/4 NPT port will be roughly 7/16" in diameter; a 3/8" port will be roughly 9/16" in diameter; a 1/2" port will be roughly 11/16" in diameter.



As I mentioned earlier, there are a lot of adaptors out there to adapt just about any pipe thread to just about any other pipe thread. One place to find them is www.swagelok.com. Other options are McMaster-Carr and even Summit Racing carries a selection of them.



When you say "I'm going to use 1/4" ID hose" I assume you mean you'll use hose that already has fittings attached, or that you're going to use push-on hose barb connections.



This is not hard stuff, but there's a ton of information out there and it's worth very carefully planning your plumbing before starting the installation so you don't find yourself stranded waiting for different sized fittings. You can find most of what you need online, or if you really want details try a copy of Machinery's Handbook.



Ryan

 

[radar doctor]

Thanks Rb, I Needed That Info Too... does Anyone Know Where You Can Find One Of These Filter At A Good Buy? Doc

 

[Nate]

eBay is a good place. I paid around $120 for the Marine version I have on my truck.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fran...ryZ50442QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem



If you go with this fellow, ask him to check the canister to make sure it's not rusty. Mine was pretty rusty, and another member on here PMed me and said his was rusty as well. I sanded the rust out, after waiting about 3 weeks for a replacement canister I was promised by the eBay seller. Still haven't received it.



Also the older Frantz units have a smaller tube than the newer ones. The Scott 1000 in the single pack fit it. I couldn't find any single pack Scott TP, so I had my brother machine me a sleeve to fit over the Frantz tube and be the proper ID for the TP roll.



As for the install, I got a piece of steel brake line, I don't remember what size off the top of my head, but large enough to fit over the bolt for the battery hold down. I welded the brake line to the corner of the Frantz bracket and that was it really.



For the lines, I just used the stuff in the Frantz kit. Last week I had it apart and I put new lines, just because the Frantz lines had me worried being 25+ years old.

 

[Axion]

Thanks for the info Ryan.



I took a look at www.wefilterit.com and it would seem the ports on the Frantz base are indeed 1/8 NPT. The hoses I looked at were 1/4" ID with crimped 1/4 JIC fittings. Another option the hose guy showed me used barbed fittings but I kind of like the permanence of the crimped ones. I will be using some old lengths of rubber tubing I have to mock up the installation to ensure I get the right lengths.



My carpentry teacher taught me to measure twice and cut once. When I worked in aviation manufacturing the rule of thumb was that if the weight of the paper needed to make the part met or exceeded the weight of the part, it was probably OK. With enough homework done ahead of time things should work out. Will keep everyone posted as I go.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

It's a loooong read - and covers lots of peripheral issues - but DOES include a possible battery mount and location for the filter down on about the 4th page.



Check it out:



http://turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98863&page=1&pp=40

 

[Axion]

Thanks Gary. The "Anatomy" thread is where I learned the most about Frantz filters!



I really like the way you mounted your filter. On my truck, the battery tray and the airbox have swapped locations. And the battery tray does not have an over-the-top bracket and bolt to hold it in place. Mine is held in place by a small wedge with a bolt at the base of the battery. Even if I could retro-fit the same over-the-top system the routing of the new intake system will not allow anything at the middle of the battery. I need to mount it closer to the aft end of the battery. I also need to be low enough so that I can still pull the dipstick for my automatic transmission.



I have yet to pull the battery out but am leaning towards just building a bracket that will bolt to the side of the battery box. There seems to be enough clearance between the battery and the box for a couple of bolts. I am hoping to get the time this weekend.