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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) throttle cable

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Intake heaters

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission DSS Thanks for advice

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Today while pulling my trailer (ofccourse it has to happen while towing) I noticed the truck wouldn't return all the way to idle. It would stop at about 1200 rpms. I'd goose the throttle alil like you would to take it off high idle and it came back down to the right idle speed. drove a few more miles before I had to let off the throttle again. did the same thing except held at about 1500 rpms. Every time I let off the throttle it got worse and worse.



As of now when in park or neutral the truck wants to idle about 2300 rpms. In gear (doesn't matter which one 1,2,3, or 4) it wants to run about 1900 rpms. The truck accelerates by itself upto about 1900 rpms then slowly (I mean real slowly) drops down but never below 1500 rpms.



I checked all the cables over. The cruise control cable seems to have some slack in it and the cable running from the pedal to the pump is tight. But where the cable meets the pedal the cable just stays put and the pedal slides along the cable I can get out pop the hood and move the lever on the side of the pump and it well return to idle and stay there until I hit the throttle again. It seems the cable is being held or something not allowing it to return to idle.



Am I on the right track thinking it's either the throttle cable or cruise cable. Oh the cruise cable was replaced 2 yrs ago when I bought the truck because it was broke.



TIA

Nathan
 
Second that. Check for the cable to be getting caught on something or binding on itself somewhere between the pedal and the pump. Check the springs on the throttle itself make sure nothing is hanging them. Does it stick when you rev it manually with the lever on the pump?
 
I had the linkage on my '97 fixed (at 200. 000 miles) by the dealer for free because of that bulletin. If you can get it there, you may want to let them do it.
 
I looked around under the hood today. Everything looks ok nothing missing or pinched. The cable runs from the pump back to the master cylinder (kind of jogs around it and goes over it at about the 10 o'clock position if looking from the front of the truck) Started the truck and it went immediatly to about 1800-1900 rpms. I played with the lever on the outside of the pump. It well return almost all the way to idle on its own with the engine off if I move it. I didn't have anybody to help me watch what it was doing in the cab to the pedal. I looked under the dash again at where the pedal meets the cable. There was about 2-3" of cable sticking out past the cable (towards the rear of the cab). This was before I started it up.



TIA

Nathan
 
Yep. It has a jog in it. There should be a spring from the block to the lever on the side of the pump where the governor is located.
 
Mine did the exact thing. The cable frayed inside the housing. New cable and 10 minutes later it was fixed. Try taking the cable off the pump and make sure that is it.
 
It's the throttle cable. It stretched out right were it passes threw the firewall. Now heres my next problem. The block is a 96 and the pump and linkage are all 94. The dealership wants the block number so they can order the kit because there is a number break for which cable it gets? Should I just tell them its the lower of the engine numbers and go from there? From looking around on Fritz's site I have found that the 94's would take the lower number break.



The 96 block # is 56270026



TIA

Nathan
 
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Nathan, the part number for my '98 included a new ball stud for the pump end of things. I didn't need it becasue of the year of my truck. I think that if you ordered a cable for a '98 that you would at least get all the parts that you need even if you do need to change the ball. As far as I know that is the only difference.
 
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