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Throttle lever linkage problem

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I was replacing the TPS today and wanted to adjust the throttle linkage per the manual
to get the 1v (+-. 2). The ball end connector
on the pump end fell off in my hand. Also
from the picture in the manual it looks like my linkage is on backwards. The adjustment portion is toward the back (pump side) not
the front as in the manual picture. Also
the manual show a nice baering connector
on the pump side not a plastic ball socket.
Where can I get the parts to replace this linkage?

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95 2500 4X4 Auto TST 230,
K&N Filter,PacBrake,4" Cat Back,
EGT-Boost-transmission temp gauges.
128K+ miles. 36. 5' Avion 5th whl
 
Fulltimer,

You are missing at least one part if the ball came off in your hand. There is a very small wire clip that holds it on. There should be one on each ball end. It wraps around just under the ball and one end sticks thru the side of the ball parallel to the rod to prevent the ball end from comming off. The clip may have been ruined by someone in the past prying the ball off with the clip in place. That will bend or break it. If it's still in there it must be replaced.

The way the linkage is bent it will only fit one way. There is an ajustment on the front ball but there is not much change available there, more like a lock nut to keep the rod from turning in the ball end. The main ajustment is the threaded rod just in front of the rear ball end. It has a flat spot that can be gripped with a wrench or a small vice grip.

While you are at it check to see if the two little screws (8mm wrench) that attach the lever to the pump are tight. It's a good idea to put a dab of grease in the ball ends when you put them back on. Make sure you understand how the #$@%!&~@! little clips work before you put them back.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver
 
When inspecting my throttle cable I noticed the plastic socket on one end of the linkage was cracked all the way through. You can't order just the ends,it's a new rod with metal ends. It lists for $35, dealer charged me $28. Also bought a new throttle cable which was about $38. My linkage is also backwards from the pic in the manual.

Duke

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95 2500,std cab,4x4,auto by Dunrite,TST #4,AFC spring kit,Pier's gov spring kit, timing @ 15*, 215 injectors, Walker muff, 3. 54,Diprocol gauges in cupholder slot, K&N,Optima reds, Valentine One radar deflector,Diamond utility bed, custom 52 gal aux tank under bed.
 
Duke,

Your truck must have been made before mine since mine has always had the metal ends. The build date on mine was March 14, 1995 (couldn't believe it since that's my birthday) so it was pretty late in the model year. I didn't know about the plastic ends.
 
Originally posted by Joe G. :
Duke,

Your truck must have been made before mine since mine has always had the metal ends. The build date on mine was March 14, 1995 (couldn't believe it since that's my birthday) so it was pretty late in the model year. I didn't know about the plastic ends.

Joe G,
Thanks for your reply. My truck was made in Nov. 1994.
Since your has the metal ends does that
mean I should disregard your remarks about the little metal clip.
 
I have no idea how the plastic ends are assembled, but you probably still need to know about the clips since it's a good idea to get the ones with the metal ends as Duke suggested. The little clips work good, but can be hard to figure out when your hands are in an awkward position trying to deal with them. They are easy to remove with just your fingers if you know how they work. Putting them back is easy AFTER you get the end of the clip in the tiny hole.
 
I have the OEM plastic ball ends on my throttle linkage. No clips hold the socket on the ball. They just snap into the ball ends. A small step inside the ball socket has to pop over the ball.

Unless the dealer had the linkage apart for some reason never replaced the clips. Or maybe just the auto trucks have the clips?

I ordered the metal ball ends and throttle rod combo from the dealer. The throttle rod was way too long. Even shortened up to its max. Parts guys said thats the P# for the truck.

My plastic ball ends were still in good shape. Cleaned them up and filled them with grease.
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Bill R
94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust, Autometer Pyro, Boost & Water temp gauges, Bosch 215 HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7 º, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit, Scotty Air, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Optima Red Tops, Geno`s Exhaust Blanket,Espar Heater (won it!), Synthetic lubes throughout.



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 10-01-2000). ]
 
The plastic ball end on mine was split where it threads onto the rod. The dealer said the one I just bought was the fourth or fifth version of the original part.

Duke

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95 2500,std cab,4x4,auto by Dunrite,TST #4,AFC spring kit,Pier's gov spring kit, timing @ 15*, 215 injectors, Walker muff, 3. 54,Diprocol gauges in cupholder slot, K&N,Optima reds, Valentine One radar deflector,Diamond utility bed, Firestone air bags, custom 52 gal aux tank under bed.
 
I recently exchanged some e-mails with someone you was having linkage problems on a '96 and the ball ends were the same as mine. The little clip was causing some confusion in getting the ball ends off the levers.

[This message has been edited by Joe G. (edited 10-02-2000). ]
 
I went to the dealer today and got the part. Got the whole assembly (rod and both
ends). I had to screw the adjustment all the way in to get it to the right length.
I had my old one held on with a rubber band
to get to the dealer. Found the old plastic
end caps to be cracked. The one that fell off had a crack on the inner socket part
and the other end was cracked on the threads. The new part is all metal except
for plastic inside the sockets. Thanks for all the replies. Everyone should check this
linkage on their rig.
 
The wire clips are no longer serviced. The linkage now comes with metal ends with plastic insides-seem to work well. Also if you buy the rod package for a 91 to 93 and disassemble it ,it will replace the ends on the long rod (same parts) much cheaper
 
When I changed out my throttle cable I tried to get the ball sockets off and after removeing the clips I still could not get the ball sockets off any suggestions?

Paul

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'96 2500 ext. cab, LB, 4x4, 5 speed, 3. 54, TST 280 cam plate, AFC spring kit ,pyro and boost gauges mounted on A-Pillar, tinted windows, 16x8 Eagle alloys series 1219, 285/75R16 Durango A/T's, stainless steel rocker panels and alluminum stirrup steps
 
I just use a large screw driver and twist to pry them off. Yours may be pretty rusty inside the ball so be carefull about bending one of the levers. I put a dab of grease in mine when I service the truck now to prevent that.
 
Just got done replacing my frayed throttle cable with the newer version, and noticed that my throttle rod has the metal ends with the plastic insides. After sliding that little clip out I still had to pry off the end with a screwdriver, it had a bit of rust inside so I greased it before reinstalling. Just be careful prying it off though you can bend the lever quite easily(like I did)
Paul
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'95 2500 4x4 ext. cab ,5 spd. , 3. 54, Longbed, K&N, Mopar Nerf Bars, ARE 16" alum. rims, 255/85 Kelly AWRs, 4" BD catback, Amsoil by-pass system, SPA turbo boost/pyrometer combination gauge.

[This message has been edited by boathead (edited 10-08-2000). ]
 
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