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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Thuren Track Bar findings/ report

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Should I sell the crew cab?

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Truck is Sold!!

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rmcnamee said:
The shaft is designed to telescope or slide, which allows it to collapse in a frontal collision, reducing driver injuries.

Hmmm... I have not thought about that. It would have to be a very serious wreck to move the steering box on the frame that much though. Any other thoughts on why it telescopes?
 
TMills said:
Hmmm... I have not thought about that. It would have to be a very serious wreck to move the steering box on the frame that much though. Any other thoughts on why it telescopes?

What rmcnamee said. Yeah, a bad accident. But if it's bad enough, the last thing you need is a steering shaft/wheel crushing your chest.



There was some talk about drilling/tapping a hole to put a set screw in - would allow it to collapse but take out the slack. I haven't done it (yet).
 
Pump the boot up with grease. Secure both ends with zip ties. Squeeze boot to fill up the slack. This works fairly well.
 
THUREN said:
I put 4 degrees "minimum" in every solid axle vehicle I ever work on. With some very large tire vehicles, less caster is easier on the steering when the vehicle is stationary, but on a Dodge with around 35" tires I say go with closer to 5 degrees.

Here's the thing... .

Caster, IMO, is one of the only specs that you can do yourself on a dodge that is up to what YOU want. It isn't about the "degree" but rather the feel and handling you get. Wider rims, different backspacing, and larger and wider tires all make a difference in "feel" so it's very hard to say what is optimal for ALL dodges, but stock caster is way too low a number.

If there was anything to worry about I would say take your truck into a shop to do this, but theres not... . If you can handle loosening a bolt and tapping the cam a half inch, you can do this yourself. The numbers REALLY don't matter as you cant go TOO far with the dodge cams, it's up to what YOU like... :)

Don... .


what caster do you recomend for 37s and what toe 00 or 0. 5" in?


ALSO- My cams have come loose before and are sort of sloppy do you know of any aftermarket source for new ones besides dodge? tryed Carquest not sure about NAPA.
 
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THOREN, still waiting on your recomendation before I have the truck lined up

Also on a truck like our is it better to find an oldtimer with strings or a young punk with a $100,000 machine that tels him every step and no REAL instinct?


Willys said:
On the subject of bad accidents, this is a good reason NOT to weld the joint(not to get too off-topic here)

http://turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=147595

YOU dodn't have to go gorilla welding the shaft with multiple passes and all just a few light tacks to hold the play out it sufficient and will break relativly easy in case of an accident.

DISCLAIMER: weld your steering at your own risk.
 
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rivercat said:
Also on a truck like our is it better to find an oldtimer with strings or a young punk with a $100,000 machine that tels him every step and no REAL instinct?





I have an old timer with a brand new machine, and I got to watch the whole evolution :cool:
 
rivercat said:
THOREN, still waiting on your recomendation before I have the truck lined up



Also on a truck like our is it better to find an oldtimer with strings or a young punk with a $100,000 machine that tels him every step and no REAL instinct?









YOU dodn't have to go gorilla welding the shaft with multiple passes and all just a few light tacks to hold the play out it sufficient and will break relativly easy in case of an accident.



DISCLAIMER: weld your steering at your own risk.



I will see if I can get a hold of him, he has been REALLY busy in the shop and has not had much time on the forums lately. If I can get a hold of him, I will tell him about this thread. Or good ol' Dodges keep him busy building parts... lol
 
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