2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission tie rod ends have just about kicked my butt

[Clinton]

Here's my story,

I've been doing the levelling spring swap in the evenings this week. The tie rods were a royal pain to get off during the prep and they're all that's keeping the project from being a job well done. I've decided whoever fiddled with these in the past put the castle nuts on with an impact wrench and boogered up the threads. I started with new nuts (not easy to find) as the stud threads look okay. They'll start, but it's not right. So I go looking for new rod ends (not easy to find) and if you can find them, you're gonna pay a lot. Then I go lookin' for a M14X1. 5 die to chase down the threads and that's impossible to find. What should I do? I've got the right nut (from an industrial bolt supply house), its a Grade 8 non-castle. I know I can get it on there, but it'll be a pain coming off. These rod ends feel fine; no slop, no binding. Its the stud threads. Somebody please keep me from making bad worse. Thanks.



On a good note, the spring swap was not at all bad to do. I learned a lot and everything (including the new DT track bar) went back on easy as pie.

 

[illflem]

I had exactly the same problem working on an Accord. Don't remember the exact size die I needed but it was similar. None of the places I'd expect to have one did, I gave up and went to Napa to order a new joint, told them what was happening, he said no problem, the correct die was there the next day.

 

[Bigramguy]

You can use the new nuts as a chaser to clean up the threads sometimes. Keep winding them on and off,little by little,along with some lubricant. If the nut gets buggered up,start with a new one again. Sometimes it works,sometimes it doesn't. Nothing to lose. You may need a bottle jack to put some pressure on the rod end to force it into the taper so it won't turn.

 

[Clinton]

I'm finding M14X1. 25 dies like they're going out of style. The M14X1. 5, on the other hand may as well be backordered from a manufacturer on the moon. This is weird. My best option for making my alignment appointment at 0800 tomorrow is a metric thread file. Coincidently, everybodys out of metric files, Napa, Northern, etc.

 

[Gizmo 007]

just curious, but have you tried places like Lowes, or Home Depot? They usually carry a large assortment of taps and dies. Worth a shot.

 

[M Barnett]

You can make a pretty good thread chaser with a nut as mentioned. If you have a small triangle shaped file, you can file a grove across the threads in the nut down to the root diameter. Then if you have the experience, heat treat and draw the nut. Try and be sure it starts straight. If the stud you are working on is long enough, cut the nut into crossway's and after deburring, clamp the two halves together on the stud and rotate back and forth to straighten the threads.

Michael

 

[illflem]

I've done what Michael is speaking of but instead of cutting the nut in half have just cut though one side and wedged it open with a screwdriver, placed it over the striped bolt as far as possible, closed it back down with vicegrips then used it to clean up the threads.

 

[M Barnett]

Bill, your method would be better.

Michael

 

[Joe G.]

Clinton,



If all else fails you can chase the threads with a needle file. Kind of a PITA but it will work.

 

[Clinton]

update

Went back to the industrial bolt supply house and picked up a couple more Grade 8 nuts (non-castle). Carefully worked on the studs with a small half-round file, small flat screwdriver and wire brush until they were as good as I could get them (to the eye). Then slowly turned the nuts down with lubricant and patience. The tops of the studs were the damaged areas, once the nut was down about its full width everything was fine. I reckon I'll purchase an M14X1. 5 die so I can clean them up proper before putting on the castle nuts (which I had to order at the dealer, can't wait to see how much $). I just needed to make my alighnment appointment this morning. Those non-castle nuts are on there now, torqued to spec, with the tops below the pin holes and pins in place. They'll be okay for a couple of days, won't they? Thanks for the help.

 

[Bigramguy]

Glad to hear it worked out.



They should be fine. As long as you still have a cotter pin over them they will never fall off. They may come loose but I doubt it. A lot of the newer cars don't use cotter pins at all.

 

[illflem]

Hold your breath on the nut price, I paid $12/ea. Think they make them the odd size so you're stuck with the dealer. Not quite as bad as a $8 Kubota o-ring though.