2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Tie Rod Replacement

[LandShark]

I need to replace the right tie rod (from the pitman arm to the right wheel) because the sloppy joints are causing wandering steering and I need advice on what brand to use and what special tools I would need. Is it possible to use a wheel puller to separate the joints? The joint for the left tie rod is good and I don't want to destroy the boot using a fork, or can I just buy a new boot? I see the service manual calls for a C-3894-A puller but I can't find one (even on the internet).

The guys at the local NAPA couldn't tell me if there was any difference between the two NAPA brand parts (one is twice the price of the other) or if either has zerks. Any thoughts on other brands that you know have zerks?

 

[Andy Redmond]

Which left side are you refering too? The joint that connects about 8" from the passenger side steering knuckle than heads over to the left front wheel? If so, take it to a good parts store and match it up. I think its the same one that is used on the track bar to frame connection? If so, available from Moog or the dealer. Ironically, Autozone usually stocks a good selection of boots. As a last resort find an energy suspension dealer and source a "track bar kit, which comes with a good quality replacement boot. $12+/-.

I usually use the pickle fork, which destroys the boot. The puller in the FSM is made by KD. . Napa s/b to order it. Geno's Garage use may have it?



I've also removed the cotter key and nut and turned the nut around and rethreaded it until almost flush with the stud. Take a two lb. hammer and smack the stud while supporting the back side of the bar with another heavy hammer. If its not to rusty, it will pop loose. Also find a small pitman arm tool. (import car size) usually the jaws are narrow enough to work well.



Good luck

Andy

 

[Gonehawkn]

i just got done doing this very same thing on my '95 Dually 4X4. the whole thing went very smooth. although, i replaced both inner/outter tie-rods on both sides, the track bar and installed Energy Suspension sway bar end link kit, and a DSS from Piers. all the up-grades made a HUGE difference in my ride. as for the tie rods and track bar, i just used TRW parts from Advanced Auto. they have a lifetime replacement and are all fitted with zerk fittings. just had my front aligned too. when removing the tie-rod, if your gonna re-use them, i would avoid smaking the stud with a hammer(try the next suggestion first. and make sure that the nut is on the stud if you do decide to smack the stud). instead, i would heat the stud with a torch and smack the tie-rod itself near the joint. just make sure to have a rag or towel to catch the joint when it goes to hit the ground. also, dont heat the stud too much, considering your trying to reuse the boot. good luck. i am sure you will do fine.

 

[AKAMAC]

The FE trick is to hit the knuckle not the stud with a hammer. A good sharp blow will drop it out. You can do the same with ball-joints. The only time I had to use heat was removing lower ball joints from Chevy A-arms (press fit). My pickel fork sits unused in my tool box. Being as I do own one there are exceptions. Mike