Time for brakes!

[mrtrombley]

Ok, I'd like to hear some thoughts. I now have over 126K on my original brake pads. Not bad! But my right rear is starting to drag and squeaks while backing.



My dealer says I should do a whole job-new pads, new rotors and possibly emergency brake shoes. Of course his cost is high, almost $800. I know it's a lot of work because the rear axles have to be pulled! I asked why he wouldn't turn the rotors if necessary? His explanation was that the cost of labor to get them off, and then get then turned down, would end up almost as much as new ones and that in many cases when trying to get the emergency brake shoes off, the rotors get gouged and ruined. In addition, he said that old rotors with new pads tend to produce chatter.



Another place that does a lot of truck work quoted me about $500 to just do the pads. That of course doesn't include any extra for problems or turning rotors.



I just did all new ball joints. So what do you think, should I spend the extra money as the dealer recommends and have all new parts or take a chance on just the pads to try and save money. $800 seems like a lot for brakes, but it probably wouldn't take a lot to eat into that $300 difference. My dealer isn't cheap, but he treats me pretty good and does good work. I would say 126,000 miles on one set of brakes was pretty economical. Looking for your thoughts.



Thanks

 

[jelag]

Why would you replace the rotors until they are checked for dimension... All rotors have a discard dimension stamped on the side of the rotor... the same with the e-brake shoes... inspection and replace as needed... We've got several trucks and if the driver pays attention to the e-brake it could go 500K miles...

A rotor from the dealer might cost $100 but normal cost to turn it is around $15 and if the shop has good equipment its turned on the vehicle and the cost of labor is not a factor.....

If the e-brake shoes have worn into the drum the common practice is to back off the adjuster. . my guess is that the adjust has never been turned... its can self adjust but usually won't.....

There are a lot of good people out there that can check and service the brakes... . We use the phrase... lets test and repair as needed but not guess and waste money.....

Just my thoughts...

 

[Scooby]

I did the job myself (with some help from Jelag's instructions!)... . I replaced all four rotors and pads and flushed all the fluid. Everything together cost about $400. Now if you factor in the frustration of it being cold and raining outside and snapping the head off a bleeder valve (which I was forwarned of)... ... .

 

[steved]

Replacing rotors does not require pulling axles... you need to remove the caliper, the caliper support bracket, and three lock washers from the wheel studs... the rotors should slip off at that point.



I did the entire job myself, using aftermarket pads, rotors, caliper slide bushings, and shim kits for around $425. I changed them at 180k, and with 50k on these; I expect another 100k on aftermarket stuff.



I also flushed the brake fluid too... the calipers seemed ok.

 

[Scooby]

Depending on where your truck has spent its life - will definitely impact whether your rotors will "slip off"..... mine required some serious coercing. After spending two hours on the first one..... that learning curve kicked in and the second one took about 5 minutes to remove. While supporting the rear axle on jack stands, I used my jack to left up on the rotor while using an air chisle (with dull tip) to vibrate the thing loose. Worked like a charm on rotors that were otherwise dedicated to remaining one with the truck!

 

[steved]

Depending on where your truck has spent its life - will definitely impact whether your rotors will "slip off"..... mine required some serious coercing. After spending two hours on the first one..... that learning curve kicked in and the second one took about 5 minutes to remove. While supporting the rear axle on jack stands, I used my jack to left up on the rotor while using an air chisle (with dull tip) to vibrate the thing loose. Worked like a charm on rotors that were otherwise dedicated to remaining one with the truck!

That still doesn't require "the rear axles have to be pulled"...

 

[Scooby]

True -true, very true..... no need to pull rear axles to remove rotors!

 

[seafish]

It sounds to me like you'd better find another another dealer or mechanic to service your brakes... the one you are talking to simply doesn't know better or is actually trying to take you for a ride. Either way, it seems to me, that you DON'T want him working on your truck!!



That being said, you are smart to note how many miles you got from your OEM mopar brake pads and rotors. Like Jelag noted, the rotors might well be turned and still be within specs. I believe that you should stronly consider using the Mopar oem pads again, but NOT the mopar "value line" pads, because they are NOT the same as the high qulity pads that came on your truck from the factory. Make sure to go with the mopar premium pads... they have already served you well and will do so again!!



Just my . 02 !!

 

[Shadrach]

The rear axles don't have to be pulled to remove the rotors but to do the e-brake shoes you do. They are expensive from anyone. The rear caliper slide pins have a rubber boot over them. On my 03 the lower boots were ripped open which allowed the pins to sieze instead of being able to move freely. This caused the inner pads to rub all the time and wore out both the pads and rotors. Shadrach

 

[mrtrombley]

Thanks for all the replies. I'm not a mechanic so I can't answer technical questions, and I don't do the work myself, but I have gone to 3 locations for estimates and they have all said that the axles must be pulled! I really can't answer as to why.

Anyway, I believe in preventative maintenance, and my dealer said he could cut $100 off the cost, so I have decided to have him do the work. I know their work and know I will get a good job. I wish I was as handy and knowledgeable as most on TDR seem to be, but believe me, I am one of those guys with 10 thumbs. I will tackle smaller things but not a job as big as this.

Thanks again.

 

[seafish]

Anyway, I believe in preventative maintenance, and my dealer said he could cut $100 off the cost, so I have decided to have him do the work. I know their work and know I will get a good job.



Thanks again.

For your own satisfaction, and the longevity of your new brakes, do make SURE that he is going to use the Mopar OEM premium line of brake pads (like hte ones that came on your truck from the factory)... everyone here at TDR agrees that the mopar "value line" pads are a bad investment!!



If you want to double check, the part # for the "value line" brake pads are different then the part # for the premium.

 

[HOBrian]

My pads are getting low as well and I am hoping I can get the rest of the winter out of them before I have tear into them. I will have to do calipers as well because some of my bleeders are broken.



Mr. Trombley, where in Rutland are you from, my parents have a house on Lake Bomoseen. (across from Woodard Marine) I was planning on heading up for Christmas this year but I had hernia surgery so I am home in NJ.

 

[mrtrombley]

HOBrian, I am in N Clarendon, just south of Rutland. If you are familiar, it is just south of where the new Rt4 connects with Rt7 at the Mall. There is a good little RV park just about 1/2 mile from where I live.



Sorry to hear about your surgery. Too bad you won't get up, it is going to be a nice, white Christmas. Been pretty slippery lately, but Christmas eve is supposed to be a nice, sunny day.



When you say across from Woodard Marine, are saying across the Channel from their main location? E-mail if you get up and have time for a coffee.

 

[JCockerill]

i'm running porterfield r4-s pads now on original stock rotors and love them. no squeeks, low dust, and stop great, no fade... when time comes, i will be running ART rotors.

 

[HOBrian]

HOBrian, I am in N Clarendon, just south of Rutland. If you are familiar, it is just south of where the new Rt4 connects with Rt7 at the Mall. There is a good little RV park just about 1/2 mile from where I live.



Sorry to hear about your surgery. Too bad you won't get up, it is going to be a nice, white Christmas. Been pretty slippery lately, but Christmas eve is supposed to be a nice, sunny day.



When you say across from Woodard Marine, are saying across the Channel from their main location? E-mail if you get up and have time for a coffee.

I know exactly where you are. I went to Green Mountain College class of 96. The parents house is right across the channel from their main location. They are one of the four houses.



Back on topic:-laf I am looking at EBC brakes right now. I haven't looked anywhere else, but knowing I am going to replace the calipers I will be spending more than I want to but they are pretty important.

 

[Mhannink]

7 to 800 is about right for a complete brake job like your dealer is talking about. in fact its rather good i did the brakes myself on my truck granted they where all performance parts and it ran me around 800 and minus the labor since i did it thats actually not bad. however i think your dealer is wrong about needing new rotors. if the rotors are within spec and not warped new pads wont cause chatter and it will all be ok. the brakes are designed to just replace that pads when they are worn. if your hard on the brakes or do a lot of driving in the hills that could warp the rotors then its a good idea to either turn them or replace them. you will know if they are warpped though since that will cause surguring or chatter even without changing any of the parts.

 

[Kry226]

I am surprised to see so many recommendations for turning the rotors. I had thought that those days were gone, as I have had very little luck having them turned and remaining vibration free for anything greater and about 15-20K.



Granted, I admit that my 04 has 106K and nary a vibration on original pads and rotors, and still seems to have lots of pad life left too.



So are our rotors a different animal and made like they used to make them, and thus, successfully turnable and durable afterward?

 

[S.Morris]

On a dually you do have to pull axles and remove bearing locknuts and outer wheelbearing. The rear rotor is bolted to hub from backside.

If rotors look in good shape and not warped or at min thickness they are good to go with a quality pad.

I use wagner pads with less aggresive metallic.