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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) timing boxes for red line box

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Axle change out

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Redneck Motor Home all lite up

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I am going to be getting a red line box and i was wondering what timing box works the best for a set up sence the rd box does not do timing. Wondering which gives the most added power
 
the turbo is the same as a sledpuller 66 its just not from high tech

and as for egts i can hit 1800 ez if i dont watch it around town its from 700 to 1200

if you want someing cooler put a s400 on the bottom of that killer b
 
I just got some Mach 6 right now im running a set of jammer 5. Down the track the highest temps i see is 1400 pre turbo. Im not for sure how its gonig to run with the Don M. My pulling class wont let me run twins or i would have long ago
 
I heard through the rumor mill that the redline box by passes the ecm for added functions :confused:



I would be happy to supply a catcher for testing with a cc deposit and money back guarantee :)
 
FUL POWER said:
BoB what does the box cost and it will add the timing that the redline lacks





oh yeah it will add the timing but too much low end full could put out the fire .



There is a fine line to light the fire :-laf



I will call tomorrow
 
The cam is awesome! Lowered my WOT temps and now I have that elusive fuel pressure covered.



I actually did the cam just for the lobe, but after talking to Don, he got me headed towards a little added performance. There is a stage 3 for the all out truck, but mine spools much faster and harder, EGTs are down everywhere and I picked up a little milage as well.



Truck runs smoother, almost "electric", and still has lungs long after the old cam gave up. I am still running a little turbo as well.



Dave
 
did you install the cam if so was it hard to do did you fly cut the pistons and if you dont mind me askin what was the cost :cool: cuz i need more
 
Billywj said:
did you install the cam if so was it hard to do did you fly cut the pistons and if you dont mind me askin what was the cost :cool: cuz i need more





I did the install myself. This was the first time replacing the tappets for me though.



The install is very straightforward and requires a good mechanical knowledge to do. It is not brain surgery!



A few sticky points in the swap. You need the install/ uninstall tools. Basically, this is a tube with a cap on one end. It is used to catch the tappets and hold them in position for reinstall. You need a small rubber plug and some braided string. This is to pull the tappets up into the bore. Also, you will need some wooden dowels, tapered on one end and a slit cut in the end. The dowels are used to hold the tappets up in the bores while the cam is being pulled or you are positioning the tray.



You will need to press off the cam gear. It's very easy and an arbor press works in some cases. But, plan on a trip to a shop if you don't have a press.



I actually has an issue that makes everyone cringe. I dropped a tappet on the #5 cylinder. It fell through to the pan, but if it didn't, you can turn the engne over and make it drop out. I dropped the pan and did NOT have to jack up the motor. Just used a pen magnet and it came right out.



Basically, remove everything on the front of the truck, pull cam, reinstall.



Pricing? For that, you gotta talk to Don. He can get you hooked up based on your needs. I am going to add the heavy duty valve springs as well, but I have plenty of clearance in the current springs.



Dave
 
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