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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Timing help

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 53 block

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rear of truck sits to low

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JGheen

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Ok, so I am pretty sure I got this timing procedure down pat except for a few things I am unclear on. I will finally be doing my first ever timing adjustment on the truck this weekend since I will be installing my EDM'd injectors and now is the time to finally advance it for the extra fuel.

So my questions are when you go to press the gear back on the pump shaft, what prevents the pump shaft from turning and messing up the new timing set point? Is it really hard to turn over and I shouldn't have to worry about it turning as I am pressing the gear back on? Also, which way do I turn the gear as I am pressing it back on to take up the gear lash, I can't remember?



One other thing, I will be leaving the #1 injector out of it's hole to better find TDC, and I was going to just drop a long "T" handle in there and stop turning the engine when the piston reaches TDC. Do you guys think this is an inaccurate way of finding TDC?



Thanks for the help on this guys, I may have some more questions if something else seems confusing but for now I just need assistance with these Q's.



Joe
 
When I always helped with timing trucks at my former job we rechecked the timing after we torqued the nut down to insure it hadn't slipped (9 times outta 10 it stayed put). The only time the engine is hard to turn over is when your coming up on a compression stroke and even then it's not to bad.



We always used the valves to get close to TDC but the "T" handle will get you close enough to use a dial indicator to find exact TDC.



Theres a pretty good write up about setting the timing in the FAQ section.



Nathan
 
Thanks Nathan, I am definatley going to double check the new timing set point after I torque the nut back down. So as I am putting the gear back on the pump shaft, it shouldn't move any right? The Pump shaft I mean, not the engine. I obviously will be holding the engine with the barring tool as I torque it down.



Yeah, at my work we use a T handle in the spark plug hole to find TDC, works very well and easy to find the top. I just figured since I was going to have the injectors out I would just leave #1 out to easily find TDC. Cool, I was afraid someone was going to say it is very inaccurate to find TDC that way for some reason.



I read the write up on the FAQ section, good stuff, just didn't answer my confusion about the pump shaft turning any and screwing up the new timing set point while trying to press the gear back on.



Joe
 
Would be hard to turn engine with inj pump nut while touqueing. Even if it moved, recheck lift, and will probably still be where you put it.
 
I will be installing my EDM'd injectors and now is the time to finally advance it for the extra fuel.





Leave all the injectors out to set the timing. It makes it much easier to turn the motor over. when I went to set mine the Injection pump jumped when it poped off the gear, the tension between the puller and bolts in the gear, and I had to spin the motor over alot to get it back.



One quick question what to do when the gear won't come off. Went to set a buddy's timing and bent my puller. Got a brand new one, and when it streched the bolts I stopped and gave up. His was cruising with a load at 900 to 1000 post turbo driving by the EGT guage. 40MPH over hills with spikes of 1200.



Good luck on your timing and Injectors. Oo.
 
Well, I am gonna use the barring tool just to put a stop on the engine when I torque it. I thought I read that somewhere in the service manual, have to check.

What I am really asking is once the pump gear is removed from the shaft of the pump, when I go to put it back on after setting my new plunger lift and am pressing it on by hand in the counterclockwise? :confused: position to take the lash out of the gear set, can the pump shaft move at all and mess up the newly set plunger lift? I hope I asked that correctly. :confused:
 
Heepdriver said:
when I went to set mine the Injection pump jumped when it poped off the gear, the tension between the puller and bolts in the gear, and I had to spin the motor over alot to get it back.



One quick question what to do when the gear won't come off. Went to set a buddy's timing and bent my puller. Got a brand new one, and when it streched the bolts I stopped and gave up. His was cruising with a load at 900 to 1000 post turbo driving by the EGT guage. 40MPH over hills with spikes of 1200.



Good luck on your timing and Injectors. Oo.

Well that's just great.



Bending the puller, that is even better. That would ruin my weekend. #@$%!



Thanks for the advice on rotating the engine over, and you pretty much answered my question, the pump can get bumped from the newly set plunger lift as your pulling the gear off or probably putting it back on. Any body have any tips for preventing the pump shaft from rotating, screwing everything up and making the entire job longer than it should be?



Joe
 
Is anyone using the special bearing and thrust washer kit called out in the service manual procedure for setting the pump timing?

-john
 
I've set my timeing a few times messing around with different settings. When I torque the nut on the injector pump the timing usually moves a little. I allowed a little for the movement to get it right where I wanted. I use a barring tool and the taper on the pump shaft is clean and dry like it is supposed to be, but it always moves about a half a degree when I torque it up. I use the bearing and thrust washer kit. Maybe if I didn't do that the timing would stay put.
 
I think there is an issue with the later models, your 98 being one of them, where the pump rolls back when the gear is removed. I am not sure how they dealt with it.

My 94 stayed put so wasn't a problem.
 
OK..... Here is what I have found.



Finding TDC. Take off the number 1 valve cover. Crank down the intake valve 3 turns. Roll the engine over SLOWLY till it touches the valve. Find a usable place on the gearcase and mark it. Back the engine up, 0 the valve, then go past tdc. Crank the valve down 3 turns again. Back the engine up till it touches. use the same marking place. Reset your valve lash. Measure exactly half way between the marks. That is TDC.



When I have pulled the gear off many trucks to set the timing... . Do not remove the lock washer and nut. Just back the nut off till it is flush with the shaft. Then use your puller. I have not had one "spring back" since I started doing that.



Set your timing about . 5 degree low and when you tighten the nut down it'll pull up into the area you want it.



Always recheck your timing.



Josh
 
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