Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Timing p7100

[MAllen]

Is it necessary to use the certain kits for timing the 12 valve or can I use an ordinary dial guage and gear puller?

I was curious if I could save the $200 that they are wanting for the kits. Other than not having that correct tool, I feel pretty confident about doing the timing. After the last 2 times of Cummins mid-west charging <$250, I figure it would be time to learn it my self.

 

[PRattenbury]

You'd be best off getting the kit. There's a special socket required fr the delivery valve holders, the dial indicator is made just for the application, oh, and a barring tool and 36" extension will make life much easier.

 

[Joe G.]

The dial indicator is metric. However, it requires an extension to fit into the pump with the #1 delivery valve removed. Better off to get the kit.

 

[JFaughn]

You can buy the kit parts independently , the gage holder from Cummins was at least $80+ , I got the gage holder from Snap On for $32 , the gear puller is so you do not have to take so much apart , most conventional pullers , you have to get the fan , fan shroud ect. out of the way , so you can save the money with more labor .
The tools are at the bottom of this page .

KRW200A, Tool Organizer, Removeable Trays, Red, 1,165 cu. in. (16 1/4" x 10" x 12 1/2")

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

I've timed several 12Vs, no need to remove the fan or shroud.



Barring tool is nice but not necessary, only used one once.

 

[JFaughn]

Vaughn , what puller did you use ?

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

The one in the snap-on timing kit I bought. It doesn't stick out far so getting to it isn't difficult with the fan in place. The main annoyance with the fan is when I'm turning the motor over with the crank pulley, it gets in the way a little then but not so difficult that it warrants removing it.

 

[Woodenhead]

Hey Vaughn,



Ever have any trouble with the timing slipping after setting it? Mines been done twice now by reputable shops. It slipped a couple degrees after the first one and I swear by the bad cold sputters I'm getting that it's slipped again. Is there a trick to making sure the gears stays put? Maybe they didn't clean the tapered fit good enough. Looks like it's time to quit paying the shop and just do it myself, could have easily bought the kit by now.



Mike (the thread hijacker)

 

[PRattenbury]

I had mine slip from being less than religious about a few important rules about doing timing. First, you gotta make absolutely sure the surfaces where the pump gear and pump shaft meet are spotless (as clean as possible, anyway). Any oil between them will result in slippage. Take a can of brake cleaner with the little straw on it and blast in between the gear and shaft liberally. Second, never re-use the lockwasher under the pump nut. Replace it. They're cheap. And C, make sure you torque the pump nut to the proper spec. I forget what that is now, make sure you torque it right! The barring tool, universal and a 3 foot extension will allow you to turn the engine either direction from right there in front of the pump. Not necessary, but much nicer. Timing isn't really an exact science. You'll need to set it a few different times to see what works best for you.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

I've never had one slip but then we're talking trucks not making tons of power (which makes them more likely to slip). I just blast it good with brake cleaner as soon as I separate the gear so it has time to dry thoroughly. Got to use quality brake cleaner that doesn't leave residue.



Vaughn