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Archived Timing pin replacement

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Archived 53 Block

Archived injector help plz....

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As I was performing a valve clearance check on my 97 12 valve I discovered one needs arms of rubber to access the timing pin. I managed to find TDC. After checking the first set I was unable to pull the pin back out of the gear due to the exposed part breaking off. :{ #@$%! :mad: Not sure why it fell off so easily. Does anyone have sage advice for replacing the timing pin without dismantling the whole front of the engine... KDP already taken care of.

Turns out the valve clearances were fine. Dang Murphy
 
BSowers, from 96 service manual:

"The timing pin can be replaced without removing the assembly from gear housing. "

Removal

"1. Remove the timing pin by prying the retaining ring out with small screwdriver. Replace the retaining ring if damaged during removal. "



Installation

"1. If timing pin assembly is removed from gear housing, it must be precisely reset to obtain exact TDC.

"2. Install a new o-ring, lubricate the pin an position in housing. Install the new retaining ring to 1. 5mm (0. 059 inch).



There is also instructions for removal and installation of timing pin housing assembly. They are a little more complicated and more work.
 
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If you can use your rubber arm to get a sheet metal screw started... ..... You may be able to pry it out. Then all you need to do is dig the piece out of the gear, and install a new pin, oring and retainer. Joe G. has it right. Watch the #1 or #6 valves. When #6 valves overlap, or are rocking, then #1 is at TDC.
 
I had a timing pin break in a 92, and just left the end in there. I ran it another 50K and had no problems.



I mark the damper, then never use the pin again. I roll the engine to the line, and check #2 and #3 valves and see which ones are "loose" (i. e. , no pushrod tension on them) and do the appropriate step in the adjustment procedure.



DP
 
Mine is sealed in with black silicone sealer. It's easy to find TDC for valve adjustments. When you have it mark the damper for the next time. Don't worry about the little piece of plastic that protrudes from the pin into the gear hole. If it falls into the gear case it won't hurt anything.
 
If you break off the tip in the gear, you can pull the pin and hopefully get the tip out of the gear with a pick or screw. You can make up a piece of 3/8” pipe about a foot long, with a u shaped cut along the side wall at one end, so it will just slip over the wasp waist of the pin with the button end trapped to pull the pin out. If that end of the pin is what broke off, you are in trouble. To get access and see what you are doing, you need to remove the injection pump or the vacuum pump/power steering pump, preferably the former for good access. To get the tip out of the gear, you probably need to pull the pump also. As others noted, for setting valves, don't even bother with the timing pin. The easiest way is to check for either #1 or #6 to have lash on both valves, and the other cylinder has one rocker closing and the other starting to open (depending on which way you are turning the engine over)—if using the alternator nut you are running the engine backwards and the intake will be closing and the exhaust opening for #1 or #6 at TDC.
 
Thank you all for the advice. I'm not sure I want to just shear it off. The outside handle is what broke off so there is nothing to grab on to. Egads, this is worse than changing the fuel filter... . What WERE they thinking?:confused:

I am not gumby. I guess I'm looking at three ideas. one is to find a sticky mastic material I can put on a stick and try to stick it to the recessed pin in the pin housing to see if I can disengage it. If not, what is easier? Remove the injection pump or remove the vac/PS pump to gain access to the pin holder? If I have access with either removed to the gear, how much clearance is there between the gear and the gear housing?
 
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