Tip for Prescreen Filter and O-ring replacement

[swamp rat]

After much procrastinating and tool hunting, I finally got my upper O-ring gasket replaced above the fuel heater. Just in case anyone has a need to replace the screen, nut, bottom and upper O-rings, at a minimum you will need a 17mm box or open end wrench, a pair of pliers for the nut, and an 8mm allen wrench or allen head socket to remove the heater retainer bolt. Since I had no idea what size allen wrench I needed, I had to experiment with various sizes until I found the right one. Next time I'm opting for the 8mm allen head socket in 3/8 drive.



This time I had to use an 8mm box wrench and a rubber band to get some torque on the allen wrench and to keep the allen wrench from falling to the ground while torquing the box wrench. It was slowgoing but effective. What can I say, Sears ain't open at 3:00 on Friday morning. D*%@ that SOB that stole my tools a few years ago.



BTW, it isn't nearly as difficult as it looks, and I've gotten so proficient at it, I don't scratch my arm so much! Just don't get in a rush, especially reassembling evreything and consider padding your right arm from the sharp edges around the brake booster.

 

[Bigramguy]

Been there,done that !!

It wasn't a fun job. I had a problem where the fuel heater smoked,and had to replace it. I finally got pi$$ed off after the milk crate slipped for the millionth time,I ended pulling the whole booster and master out,as well as the starter. Made the job much easier,as well as gave me the chance to get all the gunk out of the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir,and add my line lock.

 

[swamp rat]

I definitely agree, it was no picnic, but I've been trying to figure out what size wrench I needed to get to the top o-ring for about two months now. Lucked out with the 8mm. After I tinkered around with the allen wrench, box end wrench and rubber band, it didn't take but about 45 minutes or so to tear it down and re-install.

Not bad for someone my size with limited use of the right arm/shoulder. I just laid out across the intake and eased my arm into place slowly and carefully. Only thing I unbolted topside was the P-Loc plate & filter head.

 

[Cooker]

I get at it from the bottom. I find this much easier for me, my forearms just don't fit down there from the top worth a sh. .



I tore is apart to replace the parts with the Fleetguard "kit", but this did not include the upper O-rings. Should I have done this? How do I know if they are bad? What are the symptons?



Thanks

-Ryan

 

[Joe G.]

I've checked and cleaned the screen several times and never had to change any of the O rings involved with that part of the pump and pre-filter. No leaks there yet. I did have to change the O rings in the manual push button primer pump. I think I spent a buck and a half at NAPA for them. The whole business is pretty easy. I do it from the bottom with a long extension, U-joint, and 17mm socket. That way the diesel shower goes in the drain pan and not on me. The only time I had any access problems was when I fixed the leaking push button. I removed the starter for that.

 

[swamp rat]

Ryan there is one other O-ring above the heater which isn't included in the fleetguard kit. The O-ring only costs a few pennies more. Mine was like $0. 66 or something. Right at $8 for the kit and top o-ring. IIRC this is the Fleetguard part # 3834185-S or pretty close to it. I'll have ot double check my invoice to make sure.



As mentioned above, usually all that is needed is to just clean the screen and re-install, but for the money, I just replaced it all as cheap insurance. Besides now I have extra parts if needed for later.



You have to use an 8mm hex wrench (Allen wrench) or hex head socket. Stick it right up inside the hole where the hollow bolt in the filter bowl threads into the heater unit. The part that screws into the upper heater assembly looks like a round washer with a hollow threaded bolt attached. From best I could tell the flat washer looking piece helps fuel flow in a swirling spiral fashion around the heating elements then exits towards the lift pump. I guess that helps filter the fuel with a mini-centrifuge effect and and may help slightly with eliminating excess aeration in the fuel.