Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Tips for removing rusted U joints?

[A-bomb]

My u-joints need replacing and they are very rusted in place. Any tips for getting them loose without damaging or heating the drive shaft? I do not have a press, but are considering taking it to a machine shop to have them pressed out. Thanks for any help.

 

[jmeehan]

The first time I saw this I cringed, but it works, and I've never damaged a driveline.

Remove all the retaining clips, some hammering and a screw driver may be neccesary. Open your shop vice far enough to rest the u joint trunion or yoke on top of it. Take a fairly heavy hammer and, hitting the cast end of the driveline, drive the vertical needle bearing cap out of the driveline. Turn the driveline over and repeat.

I hope that makes sense, I could show you in half the time.

I like to dress the needle bearing openings with a round file if needed, or just a little emory. It helps the new needle bearing caps slid in. Then just press everything back together with your vice.

 

[Lsfarm]

One at a time

The problem with getting the old joint out is that you often have to drive the two bearing caps out together if you don't want to hammer on the yoke. .



The method used above by jmeehan has worked for me, but sometimes I cring too when I have to hammer on the yoke so hard.



So most of the time I take a torch and cut the X center or trunion out, leaving only the cap in each ear of the yoke, and then I can fully support the ear, and drive the old caps out without hammering on the yoke.



Then use your vice to press the new U-Joint in place. .



Good luck, Greg L

 

[DieselTweaker]

ok, a few tips that can help ya out, First off get a can of PB blaster and give your caps a good shot and run do this a couple times if you can it will help, most of the time I will use method like Jmeehan talks about, but if your still having problems find a ball joint press or go to your local autozone or advanced auto and rent one they work good for pressing joints out, and if all else fails time for the torch but try to cut the cross out and, not to get a bunch of heat in the yoke.

 

[A-bomb]

Is the object to smash the bejesus out of the casting in order to bend the Uhjoint out? I do have a cutting torch, but was concerned about ruining heat treat, but could wrap water soaked rags on casting. See photo.

 

[jimk]

u joint

The problem with getting the old joint out is that you often have to drive the two bearing caps out together if you don't want to hammer on the yoke. .



The method used above by jmeehan has worked for me, but sometimes I cring too when I have to hammer on the yoke so hard.



So most of the time I take a torch and cut the X center or trunion out, leaving only the cap in each ear of the yoke, and then I can fully support the ear, and drive the old caps out without hammering on the yoke.



Then use your vice to press the new U-Joint in place. .



Good luck, Greg L

That is the way I replace u joints. When you install your u joints be sure that they move freely, For sure dont install the u joint in so you cant grease them. I like to use a little anti-seize on the caps to help them go in. good luck Jim

 

[A-bomb]

I may try a cutting wheel from my air grinder on the yoke. It may not create as much heat, but I may go thru a few discs. I'll post results.

 

[towner]

The last time I took a driveline in to have it shortened the driveline shop charged me $8. 00 to replace each joint if yours is really rusted and don't want to chance bending the ears it might be worth the $$$ if you have a driveline shop close

 

[jmeehan]

Sorry but I'm not sure where your arrow is pointing.

With the horizontal axis resting on your open vise, hit on the casting about midway between the weld and the vertical cap.

There is no bending involved, the trunion will drive out the upper cap. It may take a few whacks with a hammer. I use a two or three pound hammer, and swing it like I mean it. Just make sure of where you're hitting.

You'd be surprised what a little shock therapy will do for rusty, press fit parts.

I've done dozens of u-joints this way, in the corrosive environment of Southeast AK.



Here's another tip, after you get the new joints installed, move them through there full travel. If one binds give the yoke a slight tap with a hammer. With the u-joint in place you can shock the cast iron to align with it. If the first tap doesn't work try the other yoke or other side of the same yoke.

 

[btanner]

you can also use a socket that is just smaller than the yoke holes and hit that or if you aren't so good with a hammer put an extension on it and hit the extension. Takes the stress off the yokes. If you don't have a press I think that's the best option



-ben

 

[CNichols]

Are these the stock joints?



I could be wrong but if they are the stock joints they probly still have the plastic holding them in... I know lots of trucks and cars use this from the factory now (I have never replaced or looked at mine yet). You will see two 1/8" holes in the yoke around the ujoint... . heat it up with a torch and the plastic retainer stuff should squirt out of the hole once its hot enough.

 

[vssman]

When I replaced my front axle U-joint, they were bound up tight in the yoke. After beating on the yoke for about an hour I finally gave up and took it to a machine shop. Well worth it for the couple of bucks I spent. Not to mention still being able to hear. :-laf

 

[A-bomb]

Thanks for the suggestions. After 4 hours of pounding and cutting with my air cut off saw they cam out. They were welded in with rust. I thurouhly clean the old rust out of the yoke and applied anti sieze then installed the new ones. They were the factory originals. My new ones have zerk fittings for future lubing. I did have to remove and install one twice because 3 of the roller bearings had sliped out of place and got pushed into the end of the cap. This kept me from getting the circle clip in, so I new somthing was wrong. I also filled my transmission and diff case with royale purple. Any one tried the stuff? I got a 5gal bucket from Karl Racing for $119 It was the best priced full sysnthetic I could find that was reccomended for the Diff and trannys on our trucks.