Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) tips/help removing old exhaust

[Diesel Gopher]

Got a 4" system from Rip sitting in the garage, but I am worried about removing the stock system. Truck is a 94 auto w/ 208K miles, and the stock bolts that hold the down pipe to the back of the turbo are very rusty. I have soaked them with several different types of loosening agents and they won't budge. I guess I am ready to possibly break them, but what will my next step be if I break them? How much would it be to replace the cast iron piece bolted to the rear of the turbo?



Thanks in advance for any and all info.



Matt

 

[JGheen]

Penetrating oil..... and lots of it... ... . let it soak for at least a full day spraying it over and over hour after hour. I never could get my bolts out of the piece your refering to as well. Try taking off the clamp on the back of the turbine and removing the exhaust and working on it out of the truck. Might have better luck and leverage out on a work bench.



Joe

 

[DTroy]

If you break/cut the bolts, you can take the cast piece off of the turbo and heat up the areas around the remainder of the bolts. (until it glows) Let it cool and you can get the bolts out. Some recommend wax or liquids after heating, but I haven't found it necessary.

 

[fortunate1]

Gopher - I hear ya! Did mine this summer, and I needed a few wd40 sessions. I also used a small torch to heat up the area around each bolt. I got the best grip/torque on the bolts from below with a looooong 3/8" ratchet extender. In the meantime while you wait for the opportunity to loosen the 2 downpipe bolts, now is a good time to sawzall off the rest of the exhaust & muffler. The 2 bolts are THE most time-consuming part of the entire removal & installation. Period.

 

[Dieseldemon]

If you get under the truck and use a long extension and a rattle gun 13mm they will give never had one not come loose

 

[keimmmo]

I owned a muffler shop in Illinois. When the bolts/studs are REALLY rusted, no amount of penetrating oil or even an impact gun will get them off without breaking. Heating the elbow around the bolt cherry red is the only way... and even with lots of experience I could bat only about 95%.



Vehicles that have spent their lives in central Mexico are another matter. Most have NO rust and a little penetrating oil is the most they ever need.



Steve Keim

 

[bmoeller]

I just undid the v-band clamp off the turbo connection, and dealt with it on the bench. Impact took the bolts loose, after heating with the torch. For the rest of the old stuff, SAWSALL.

 

[Diesel Gopher]

Thanks gents. I think I may remove the clamp and work on it out of the truck. I have an impact and torch, but feel more comfortable doing that work away from wireing etc. Hope to tear into it this weekend. Then I need a BHAF,3GSK, plate, 370's, delivery valves, bigger (better) turbo, new transmission,... ... ... ... ... ... .





Thanks again,



Matt

 

[sstefanini]

I put a Rip's 4" on my '94 with the same problem. It took 2 minutes to sawzall the old exhaust off and 3 hrs. and a 24" extension to break the factory seal on the 2 bolts. Just keep messing with them you'll eventually get ****** enough to break them. It's also is alot of fun trying to form the proper size dent in the down pipe so you can clear the hard coolant line going to the trans heat exchanger (you can also pry on the line itself and adjust the mounting bolts to get a little more play). Not a hard install though.