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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) tips on longer engine life lets hear them

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) This is the last time

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission stack or not

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will looking into having a preoiler install I thanks thats money well spent

this is one you need to think over

look at your oil gauge at start up and you will see if you need one or not
 
i do an oil change every 5K. i use John Deere oil plus Lucas stabilizer it works quite well.



whatever yall use just remember we will be Cummin a hell of a lot longer than those Strokers could ever dream about. Oo.
 
I never really have considered AMSOIL systems, but reading through the literature they seem to have some pretty interesting units.



I remote mount my RACOR LFS 802 bypass system under the drivers side bed forward of the wheel well, LOTS of room. My RACOR is about 14 tall like the BP110 and there is pleanty of room. I mount mine on a 1/4" steel plate (16" h x 8" w) mounted at the top to the across bed strengthener and to running board support structure at the bottom (the other side of the steel plate holds the RACOR 690T fuel filter mount and manual ball valve fuel shutoff). Just have to run the plumbing back to there.



I tend to design overkill things. I think if I had it to do over again I would do the single or dual BP110 with the pre-oiler. That would be the cat's meow.



Bob Weis
 
Why would long idling be bad, don't the big rigs idle all the time? i know the EGT's sometimes drop below 300 and you don't get full combustion but what if you idle with a pac brake on????
 
I to have read about pre-oilers, but the question is:



What is the film affinity of 15w-40 motor oil?



I have learned about oils in other applications having a long film affinity, and therefore less need for protective application. So if the affinity is more than a few days, then are we not ok with just running it a few times a week?



Does anyone have data on this? I have nothing.



Thanks!
 
Long periods of inactivity also kill an engine. Oil drains away eventually & corrosion forms on the bare parts the oil left behind. Ever think about the fact that when your engine isn't turning some of the valves are open to the atmosphere?



How much engine life are you talking about here? 450k miles versus 500k miles? My truck sits over the entire winter and up to a week or two between starts during the summer. When I do drive it, it is usually a 40 mile trip minimum. After reading your post, I started worrying, but then I thought about all the farmers' tractors that live this very same life and they have thousands of hours on them. I know of one with over 20,000 hours and it hasn't ever been pickled. With the longterm inactiveness of my motor, would I be better off adding something extremely sticky like Lucas oil additive to my oil to help coat parts longer?



Thanks,

Dan
 
1. Synthetic oil for superior protection

2. Oil analysis to monitor engine wear or lack of hopefully

3. Exhaust + air filter upgrade

4. Fuel additive to improve fuel lubrication

5. FASS setup to keep the VP44 and injectors better lubricated

6. Bypass setup
 
Several years ago I read an article on OTR trucks where it was stated that extended idle time shortened the life of the ehgine by as much as 50%.



I don't run synthetic oil or any oil additives. The reason? Well ,we already have the toughest, longest lasting engine ever made. Since I don't have anything else to put this engine in, I spend all that otherwise wasted money on the rest of the truck. Hopefully, this strategy will extend the life of the body and powertrain to match that of the engine.
 
1. Respect your equipment.
2. Dont drive it like an idiot. :eek:
3. Reasonable maintenance - only use quality parts & the small details matter a lot.
4. Dont let it sit for long periods of inactivity. Thatll kill it fast. (almost as fast as number 2)
5. Get off the phone and drive.
6. Treat it like you want it to treat you.
 
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