Off Roading Tire chains

[jmbrowning]

I've always had 2 wd pickups until now and I'm wondering how bad does it have to get before you need chains on a 4x4. I'll probably be going to the snow and possibly on Forest Service roads this winter and don't expect 4 wd to be the fix-all, I realize that some preparation and common sense are required, too.



With many places offering to buy chains back if you don't use them is it worthwhile to get a set? Is is a good idea to just have a set to keep? Would you have front and rears?



Thanks in advance!

Steve

 

[AKAMAC]

I have a set of chains that I bought for my 90 150 4x4 (32/12. 50/15) and only used them once in 6 years. That was in a freezing ice storm in Portland and I had them on the front for 13 miles. If you know how to use the front power lever in bad conditions you will not need them. If you plow or pull heavy in bad conditions they will give you extra traction. They will provide steering traction on ice.

Mike

 

[jmbrowning]

Thanks for the feedback, Mike.

Steve

 

[TFlower]

Have owned and used 4x4 trucks since the early 1970's. Have always done a lot of off roading. Only four or five times did I ever need tire chains. But when I did, . . . I needed them bad. I currently have a set for both the front and the rear. I always put them on the front first. Then If I still need more traction, I put them on the back also.

So, to answer your first question, I my humble opinion, yes. Everyone that owns a 4x4 truck should have at least one set of good tire chains. Will you ever need them?? Hopefully not.

 

[SRadke]

I have to agree with all responses thus far. I carry two sets, one for the truck (power), one for the trailer (brakes). With the weight of a diesel on the front axle that's where my chains will be but I can't say that I've used them yet, knock on wood. Cheap insurance IMHO.



-Scott

 

[jmbrowning]

Thanks for the info, guys!



Terry, do you prefer an open diff?



Steve

 

[csevers]

I made my own

"Cheater" chains for the rear of the truck. I used light duty gate chain to make short chains that can be installed throught the man holes on the rear outside tires of my dually for short term use. I have had them for 2 yrs and used them once for less than a mile just to get up a hill were others had spun out and parked in the ditch.



Craig

 

[willyslover]

Steve. . I live and drive snow a bunch..... RARE to have to put chains on [once in 13 years] and that was because of a dumb assss highway patrolman who was new on the job.



on my snow plow I use them all winter season [on the rear only !!] because I'm pushing a huge pile of snow and need the extra grip [but it's a FJ40 and doesn't have the weight our rigs do] I spend about 1/3 the cost of new to do the repairs on them also each year [I put a bunch of miles on them each year. ]



you front end is very heavy and will pull you through almost all of it.



I would never install chains on the front unless I was in very deeeeeep do do... to much injury to the front end parts can happen, and 99. 9 % of the time your traction loss is from the rear end.



Less Schwab is a great place to find CHAINS [not those dumb assss cable things] in stock, remember you have torque that can rip a tree out so they [cable type] don't IMHO warrant our rigs.



also another place that has all the repair links and stuff is the link I include.



http://www.tirechain.com/235-85R-16LT.htm



ON EDIT... you must have very good snow tires for use in the snow. . need tread depth not smooth or 3/4 used tires... I just installed new XPS traction Michelins yesterday and my old ones have another 20K left in them , but not enough depth for this winters use. . I'll put the old ones back on in spring to finish them off.

 

[jmbrowning]

Thanks, Gary. I know what you mean about the CHP; I grew up & learned to drive in Pennsylvania, and never used chains until I was in California .



It sounds like if I'm going to keep the stock Michelin LTX A/S then it wouldn't be a bad idea to at least pack chains along. Even that once in a blue moon event would be easier to get through if I was prepared.



Thanks guys for the help.

Steve

 

[fkovalski]

I just got back from hunting atop the BookCliffs north of Rifle, and if I had chains I would have used them. It was snowing pretty good! I am going to look at a set today! I got by without them but my brother who was towing a pop- up camper put 'em on all four. Many others in the area had 'em on too. I would have liked the confidence factor they would have provided. Like othrs here said- hopefully you won't need them, but have 'em just in case.

 

[Hutchew]

I run these on my trucks: http://www.tirechain.com/VBAR.htm

We do a lot of railroad support work in the winter, keeping their dirt roads open into various locations. Lots of clay and caliche, which get slicker than snot when wet, add a little snow and no way will a truck get around without chains.

A few thoughts on my experiences:

1. Cheap chains break, resulting in body damage, broken brake lines, and getting stuck.

2. Dually chains are a PIA to put on, stick with singles for the rear if you have a dually. I usually run fronts first, then rears if needed, especially in ice and packed snow. Why? I like being able to steer.

3. It is advisable to put them on, if you know you are going to need them, BEFORE you need them. There is nothing funner than lying in 4" of mud topped with 12" of slushy snow or ice trying to get a set on. This is also done usually in the middle of the night, and/or in a blizzard. Carry a piece of carpet or vinyl mat with you. Lay out your chains on the mat, then drive up onto the chains. Or lay in the mud & snow, your choice.

4. Cable chains are a waste, as are light duty chains found at pep boys, autozone, checker, etc.

5. Chain sets with cam tighteners work great, but you still need to use bungees or the special tighteners to get them tight enough. Be carefull using bungees so that the hooks don't puncture your sidewalls.

6. Install them on your truck in good weather a few times so you know how and what to expect. Trim off excess chain so it doesn't smack your fenderwells or get tangled up in other components.

7. Carry repair links, cause if you break a cross chain on the outside, you'll have to fix it or take them off.

Hope my . 02 saves somebody a headache... ... ... ...

 

[fkovalski]

Hutchew- Thanks for the info and the link for the links

Seriously- I spoke with a rep at tirechain.com and he was most helpful. Thier wesite has applications for almost all tires and the prices with shipping are less than what I can get locally.

 

[Sticks]

Originally posted by fkovalski

Hutchew- Thanks for the info and the link for the links

Seriously- I spoke with a rep at tirechain.com and he was most helpful. Thier wesite has applications for almost all tires and the prices with shipping are less than what I can get locally.

That's because you live in the Price Gouging Tourist Capital of the world.

 

[fkovalski]

Very funny, Stick- How ya' doing? Ah, you must be jealous 'cause I live in a play ground paradise

Good meeting you at Toody's a while back. Are you going to make the ATS gathering next year?

Aside from the hich cost of living in paradise, the selection of chains at the local shops cannot compare with TireChain.com. -frank.

 

[Coalsmoke]

Originally posted by willyslover



I would never install chains on the front unless I was in very deeeeeep do do... to much injury to the front end parts can happen, and 99. 9 % of the time your traction loss is from the rear end.



[/B]

Could you please clarify for those of us who are new to chains. It seems a lot of guys use the chains up front to help with steering traction as well, but what kinds of things could you brake by putting chains up front? I really don't want to reck something just because of ignorance.

 

[csevers]

It is a lot easyer to catch the brake hoses, abs sensor wiring of course this would be with drum brake in back if a newer truck you would run the risk in front and rear.



Craig

 

[willyslover]

the statement I made is MY PERSONAL OPINION only...



however with that said ... my feeling after many miles of snow driving and many trucks... the front ends have many parts that are not fixed. . IE ball joints, track bars,all the steering components and the four link system... all these parts are subject to a tremendous beating with chains that needs not be there unless we are in big trouble. . our fronts are very heavy and do a reasonably good job staying hooked up



now in deep ice storms all bets are off. . heck in that situation you may need all four corners chained... but I'm going to try to be in front of the fire place / wood stove drinking a hot toddy and not put myself in harms way unless it's an emergency



the snow plow I drive on steep off camber very twisty hills where I live has never seen or needed front chains. . even in ice conditions



again snow tires with deep tread v/s half or more worn, is top importance for some traction control... and of course without saying foot control means the difference between stuck or wrecked outcome.

 

[Ol'TrailDog]

the statement I made is MY PERSONAL OPINION only... However, It is the right one!



Chains go on the rear first as has been eloquently stated before with more diplomacy. Of course you added weight to the bed earlier in the fall, right?



Driven in MT and WY all my life. Chains are rarely needed, but when you need them - you need them in a bad way. Chains are an essential part of the "emergency gear box" which folks who live in snow and cold country carry, e. g. jumper cables, tow strap/chain, shovels (snow & folding ET), atlas or gazetter, MREs, sleeping bag, candle, flashlight w/ batteries separate, and etc. . (You have one don't you?) If you don't you just haven't had you *$$ paddled by ma nature as many times as I have. Da#m, wish I wasn't so ignorant.



However, you may substitute all the above for one small cell phone

 

[Sticks]

Originally posted by Coalsmoke

Could you please clarify for those of us who are new to chains. It seems a lot of guys use the chains up front to help with steering traction as well, but what kinds of things could you brake by putting chains up front? I really don't want to reck something just because of ignorance.

Kind of the same rule that you would apply to driving in 4 low on dry pavement. You have a lot of weight on the front. You know when you try to turn real tight in 4 HI? Well that thumping is one or the other tires breaking traction because the drive system got bound up and one wheel is trying to rotate more than the other. At least that is how it was explained to me. With chains, you have increased the amount of traction, and it makes it harder for the front end to release that binding. There are just a lot more moving parts on the front end that the rear. More moving parts = more chances to break something.



You really only want to put chains on the front when you know that you are still going to have some slippage. I. E. Deep mud, ice, deep slush, deep snow, or any combination of the four.

 

[Coalsmoke]

The reason I ask is here in BC canada, we can get some pretty good snow. Usually down in the valley, we are fine and I have never needed chains, but now that I have a truck, my girlfriend and I go exploring in the surrounding mountains. Now I'm not planning on going out in a blizzard, but things can change really fast with no more than thirty minutes warning, like some of the stormy states I've heard guys talk about. Blue sky to helll in less than an hour. We do have an emergency kit w/ flares, tow straps, jumpers, first aid, atlas candles flashlight, etc. and have a cell phone, but I really don't want to have to use it



What I was trying to figure out is if I find myself stuck in 2 feet of the white stuff, can I chain all four corners to get out of it or would that hurt the suspension, drivetrain, or other critical function part.