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as said by everyone else stay with the "E's". You might not be hauling any weight in the back but with the Cummins you're already hauling a lot of weight in the front.
 
The worst thing I ever did to a Dodge truck was put LR D's tires on it. They had a higher # rating but even pulling a small 4000# trailer forced me to start using a a WDH because of the erratic handling.
Never again!
 
I have just about resigned myself to staying with the LR E tires. I like the idea of 10PR tires over 8PR that someone posted about earlier. My old 1st Gen has astulways had E tires, but, it was also used to haul stuff with, too. I will stay with E tires for this '06. Just going to change brands. I have never been able to get over 30K miles on any of the Toyo tires, and I am pretty darned careful about air pressures, rotations, etc. I do plan on jumping up one tire size though.... 285/75/17 was recommended earlier.
 
The 285/75/17 is a good jump in height, not so much width. It does come out to close to a 34" tire. For efficiency it helps but you will need to recalibrate the speedo. The 295/70/17 tires fit nicely, look good in the wheel wells and are a 33" tire. That is all the larger I would run if doing ANY towing. The larger the tire the harder it is on the stock auto transmissions so the trade offs become a bit more complicated. A 35" tire ha sbeen known to kill a stock trans. The 33 and 34 inch tires are not as bad but any of them require a speedo correction to shift right.
 
I have just about resigned myself to staying with the LR E tires. I like the idea of 10PR tires over 8PR that someone posted about earlier. My old 1st Gen has astulways had E tires, but, it was also used to haul stuff with, too. I will stay with E tires for this '06. Just going to change brands. I have never been able to get over 30K miles on any of the Toyo tires, and I am pretty darned careful about air pressures, rotations, etc. I do plan on jumping up one tire size though.... 285/75/17 was recommended earlier.

I used Cooper Discoverer H/T's got 80k miles oughta them. If the front end is aligned correctly 1/8*+ camber max on each side and 1/16>1/8" TOTAL toe-in you shouldn't have any problems. Correctly using these numbers does NOT mean "within spec" when they put it on the rack to align it. "Within spec" has way too much leeway...pretty much if the tires are pointing in the general direction of straight it's within spec. :)
 
I used Cooper Discoverer H/T's got 80k miles oughta them. If the front end is aligned correctly 1/8*+ camber max on each side and 1/16>1/8" TOTAL toe-in you shouldn't have any problems. Correctly using these numbers does NOT mean "within spec" when they put it on the rack to align it. "Within spec" has way too much leeway...pretty much if the tires are pointing in the general direction of straight it's within spec. :)

I would not suggest maxing out the castor, it will put the front drive line at a step angle and can wear the tires. 3.7-4.2deg castor and around 0.05 toe in usually works very well.
 
I would not suggest maxing out the castor, it will put the front drive line at a step angle and can wear the tires. 3.7-4.2deg castor and around 0.05 toe in usually works very well.

Caster angle has -0- affect on tire wear. caster angle is the vertical angle of inclination of the steering axis when viewed from the side. Caster angle has a bearing on steering effort (not so much on todays cars), the tendency for a vehicle to straighten up after a turn and to track in a straight line without pulling (i.e. directional stability). Thrust angle (not adjustable with sold rear axle), camber and toe-in (out) are the adjustments the affect tire wear. The MOST caster I have ever been able to put into STOCK suspension 4x4 2500/3500 Dodge/Ram is in the neighbor hood of 4.7(ish) degrees with NO ill affects on tire wear or front drive line. Been using these settings for 35+ years on solid axle 4x4's with no problems in the front drive line and tires that have NEVER gone less than 75k miles. For the most part averaging 85-90k miles from as set of tires. The BFG All Terrains that came on my sig truck now have 79k miles on them and still have 7/32nd's of tread on em.
 
Im with the stay with the 10 ply crowd. Buddy bought a 02 a while back and was fighting driving issues felt soft took almost a month till we noticed the 8ply tires swapped my tires on to his truck all the handling issues gone.......and my truck drove like Shi--never thought about it as it had new tires.

Hi, I have run both D and E tires over the years. Agree with the posts that the handling is softer with D. Weight ratings are close with D's in the different sizes. However - personally I run E range tires - you can modulate tire pressure depending on load, and with life you don't know what you may want to haul in the future. I personally like the NITTO Terra Grapplers, the G2 version is warranted for 50K mile in the E tire. I have run several sets of NITTO Terra Grapplers and have been very satisfied with ride, balance, towing and noise - The originals wore out in 35K or so, the Dodge in sig is now wearing 275/65/20 on Black BMF wheels, with the G2 grapplers. My Ford dually has Lt 265/70R 17 LRE on the front in the Nitto Terra Grapplers. I will put the LT 245/75 R17 LRE Nitto G2 Terra Grapplers on the back 4 when I need to replace on the Ford Dually.

I tow a flatbed gooseneck with 12K to 15K depending on which truck I use. I have been very impressed with the towing stiffness of the Nitto's as well.

Just my 0.02

Luke
 
Caster angle has -0- affect on tire wear. caster angle is the vertical angle of inclination of the steering axis when viewed from the side. Caster angle has a bearing on steering effort (not so much on todays cars), the tendency for a vehicle to straighten up after a turn and to track in a straight line without pulling (i.e. directional stability). Thrust angle (not adjustable with sold rear axle), camber and toe-in (out) are the adjustments the affect tire wear. The MOST caster I have ever been able to put into STOCK suspension 4x4 2500/3500 Dodge/Ram is in the neighbor hood of 4.7(ish) degrees with NO ill affects on tire wear or front drive line. Been using these settings for 35+ years on solid axle 4x4's with no problems in the front drive line and tires that have NEVER gone less than 75k miles. For the most part averaging 85-90k miles from as set of tires. The BFG All Terrains that came on my sig truck now have 79k miles on them and still have 7/32nd's of tread on em.

Im well aware of how steering geometry works, when you max out castor your pinion angle goes down and if you turn right it will put more force on the outside of the right tire and inside of the left, I have seen many sets of tires wear this way. A truck that does more in town driving will probably show signs of this much faster then one that does a lot of highway driving. I would still not recommend maxing out castor, glad it works for you but not good advice for everybody. It also puts more stress on ball joints and I have seen it create a steering shake on real rough roads where the suspension cycles quickly and the tires start trying to return to center too fast, yes im still aware you have never had any issues and im sure you get 30mpg pulling a trailer up hill too.
 
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Im well aware of how steering geometry works, when you max out castor your pinion angle goes down and if you turn right it will put more force on the outside of the right tire and inside of the left, I have seen many sets of tires wear this way. A truck that does more in town driving will probably show signs of this much faster then one that does a lot of highway driving. I would still not recommend maxing out castor, glad it works for you but not good advice for everybody. It also puts more stress on ball joints and I have seen it create a steering shake on real rough roads where the suspension cycles quickly and the tires start trying to return to center too fast, yes im still aware you have never had any issues and im sure you get 30mpg pulling a trailer up hill too.

well as you just stated trying to defend your position the crux of the issue is any vehicle that spends more time driving in town will NOT get as many miles from as the identical vehicle driven on the open road. Just the shear number of turns made in a day will scrub miles off of a tire. I don't care if you run -0- camber. Haven't had any problems you can believe as you wish. yeah that extra 0.5 degrees is a real deal killer for you isn't it. And no I get 50 mpg as my TRAILER pulls the truck up muddy hills, off road, in the snow. :) and that's after I let it idle for 3 hours to warm up.
 
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Hahahahhaahha oh god forums are great entertainment :rolleyes:

I will mention though that when you level or lift a 3rd or 4th gen it adds castor, so maxing out castor on a stock truck will not give you as much castor as maxing it out on a truck with 2" or 3" of lift, that does make a big difference.
 
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Hahahahhaahha oh god forums are great entertainment :rolleyes:

I will mention though that when you level or lift a 3rd or 4th gen it adds castor, so maxing out castor on a stock truck will not give you as much castor as maxing it out on a truck with 2" or 3" of lift, that does make a big difference.

got that right. too cold to do anything else! :) I agree with that about the lift trucks. Then it's time to dial it back a touch.
 
Well, I took the plunge this afternoon (1-30-2015) and put a set of Goodyear Kevlar AT tires on the '06. I stayed with load range E, and changed the size up just slightly. I put 285/70/17 on the truck. Time will tell how they ride and wear. They have to be better than those Toyo's that I took off. I don't plan to ever buy another set of those as long as I am driving.
 
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