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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Tired of replacing ball joints!!!!

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Guys, is there a ball joint out there that will truely last on my 2001 4x4 cummins trucks? Carli only makes them for 2003-2009 . eventhough they are on warrenty its not fun replacing 4 ball joints every 3-4 months! help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
I use the NAPA lifetime ball joints and haven't had problems. They can be lubed, are you lubing your prior to install if they are not able to be lubed after?



It looks like you've got steering/wobble issues, was your alignment done to the "Dodge Spec" or something more useful (3-5 degrees castor)?
 
What do I look for to know if things go bad? I have heard many folks talk about bad ball joints, as well as other steering components and I'd like to know what to watch out for.



I have yet to replace any steering components in over 135,000 miles. My tires wear evenly, after 3 alignment shops tried to get it right. I did install a DSS, I like the reduced wander. I have checked steering joints almost every time I have changed my oil. My trailer isn't especially heavy and I tow infrequently, but I use my truck all the time for a wheelbarrow.
 
I've replaced mine with Moog about 75000 miles ago and haven't had a problem. They have the ability to be lubed like Napa ( which may be the same ball joint knowing how Napa usually contracts out their production of in-house parts to reputable companies).
 
I've replaced mine with Moog about 75000 miles ago and haven't had a problem. They have the ability to be lubed like Napa ( which may be the same ball joint knowing how Napa usually contracts out their production of in-house parts to reputable companies).



We have had excellent service from the Napa Chassis Parts ball joints. Napa told us that their cheaper ball joints, the Master Ride Chassis Parts line, are made by Moog.



Scott
 
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Dynatrac should find a way to make replacement KINGPIN housings and knuckles an affordable replacement and end all balljoint problems once and for all.

Maybe a complete, lockout, solid-axle shaft, kingpin, tapered wheel bearing, TRUE Dana 60 replacement front axle that would bolt right in and not break the bank. What dodge was too cheap and stupid to do.
 
SRath! thats a great idea, about that king pin type replacement for those ball joints, i don`t doubt what the guys are sayin about those NAPA balljoints but i have terrible luck with them,i accually took 1 apart and they are only made of some sort of plastic inside, and after some time the plastic squezes out with the weight off the cummins, i guess.

Those Carli joints look really good , too bad they don`t fit our trucks!

Love that Don Henely Quote too, thanks.





"An honest mans pillow is HIS peace of mind" john mellencamp.
 
Since Dynatrac makes complete custom front axles, I'm pretty sure they could actually do the custom kingpin setup, Gregg. The price tag might make your toes curl, though...

The lockout/solid shaft/tapered bearing stuff is already available from them, too. For a hefty price.

Another route might be to find a Ford kingpin (real) Dana 60 and carefully cut off and weld the dodge spring and control arm mounts to it. The later-model Chevy boys who were stuck with the torsion bar and independent front suspension crap have been easily and happily using those Ford front D-60s for years to do leafspring/solid axle conversions on their trucks. I wish we could... what a terrific truck the dodge would be then!

Note: I just emailed Dynatrac to ask about a kingpin conversion or replacement kingpin axle for our trucks. I'll let you know how they respond.
 
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Not all balljoints for our trucks have the plastic bushing in them. My friend at NAPA had a cutaway set of display balljoints he showed me. the NAPA versions are indeed built that way, and I have my reservations about the durability of that design on a heavy truck.

I don't think the Moog balljoints have plastic bushings and I have not heard any complaints about them here. Maybe I missed it. . ?
 
I think the last set (moog) I put in had a picture of some plastic crap in them on the box. in 13 years I've put in 3 or 4 sets 220k on the truck I know other trucks wear better but every 3-4 years for a few hours work aint that bad.

I am actually started greasing lowers AND UPPERS this last set. I am curious to see how long they last now. I have been bad in the past and ofetn skipped the uppers due to having to find the zerk fitting in my garage and install / uninstall to grease em
 
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Some friends of mine have the old 1992 dodge cummins trucks with the front leaf springs and we sometimes compare front end part that we have bought but there is no comparison the 4 link suspension is a disaster period!

My brothers and me own a logging company are using our truck on logging roads we really get to see just how weak the dodge front end now is we have 8 off these trucks from 1997 to 2006 and eventhough the newer ones have a beter trac bar the old toyota that our father drives makes the dodges look stupid.

Has anyone ever tried to put the complete front axle and leafs off a 1993 or newer truck? i wonder how big a job that would be?
 
Careful Gregg!

There are those here who would condemn you as a troll for even suggesting that leafsprings are superior to coil springs on a heavy-duty truck despite all the evidence proving that to be true.

Those guys don't actually NEED a HD truck and just want a cushy ride and I wish Dodge would just put a Cummins in a '70s sized New Yorker for them so those of us who need a really tough truck could maybe have one...

But, alas, the coil-link fake dana 60 front suspension was such a HUGE success for parts profits that Dodge has now extended their idiocy to coil-link rear suspension...

What you ask is what I have brought up many times here. My old leafspring K30 Chevy, based on suspension AND ride AND steering alone is 10 times the truck the dodge is. Ten times less expensive to maintain, anyway.

I have a feeling that I will never be satisfied until I put the Cummins, NV5600, (keep the Chevy's NP205), and possibly swap the Dana 80 rear as well (the Chevy's corp 14 bolt is mighty tough and already has a detroit locker) into that Chevy and sell the dodge carcass for scrap. Right now, we are dropping a killer new 454 into the Chevy, so maybe the dodge becomes the secondary beater. I do love the Cummins, though...

End of mindboggling front steering and suspension expenses .
End of headlight problems.
End of wiring and headlight switch problems.
End of parking brake design problems.
That old Chevy has no weaknesses beyond a propensity to rust and drink gas.

I ran across an add for a camper yesterday that a guy is selling with the dodge it is on. I chuckled when I read his description of the truck: "The Cummins is great but the steering on the dodge is deserving of a class action lawsuit. "

Gee, I wonder why dodge is going belly up...
 
I can honestly say the 14 bolt is indeed a stout rear axle. My old Chevy 3/4 ton had this axle and with 40" tires and 4. 56 gears and a 'welded' diff',that supposedly weaken the unit,lived for several mud hop passes. The transmission,front axle,motors and even a 203 X-case was replaced once... . but the venerable 14 bolt stayed together through all of that abuse!I never had a big-block installed but had a very torquey 383 stroker that dynoed 375ft. lbs. to the rear wheels. I know 375lbs doesn't sound like much by todays standards... . but for a small block built in the late 80's,that was pretty good.



Many of the rock crawlers are still using these but have been replaced by some... . not because they're weak,but because they are big and heavy and weight is a strong consideration.



My truck has a 70 rear and fake '60' front and I have had all of the ball joints replaced about 50K ago,so i'm expecting trouble soon..... and I don't even carry a snow-plow OR an aftermarket steel bumper!!



I would go back to leafs in a minute and if I had the knowledge and experience to install a real 60 in,I would do it. The pumkin is stout enough,it is the outers that too weak for our heavy Cummins.



Alan
 
The following is the very speedy response from Dynatrac to the inquiry I emailed them yesterday about a cure for our balljoint problems and about having a kingpin front axle built for our trucks. :



Subject: Dodge front Dana 60 assembly



Hello,

We members of the Turbo Diesel Register (TDR) are familiar with your tapered bearing hub and lockout and solid axle shaft conversion kits to fit our Cummins Dodges. Those are very desirable upgrades.



Several of us would like to know if you offer anything to eliminate the remaining weak link: The balljoints.



Can you modify a Dodge Dana 60 balljoint front axle to be a kingpin front axle, as well as a tapered-bearing/lockout front axle or do you offer such a replacement front dana 60?



Any details and pricing would be appreciated!



Thank you!



Scott





Hi Scott,

Yes, we do! Our new heavy duty Pro Steer Ball Joints are available for:



- Ford ’92-08 Ford SD 4x4’s



- Dodge ’94-99 2500/3500 4x4’s



- Dodge ’00-08 2500/3500 4x4 versions are expected to be out by November.



The are rated four times more durable than factory ball joints and are over twice the strength. They are also re-buildable for lower cost of future maintenance.



Give me a call if you have any questions and/or to place an order. I can also mail you our catalog with all the details on our products if you send me an address.



As for modifying a stock D60 ball joint axle to be a king pin, it can be done, but it will be very costly. We offer complete brand new Pro 60 axle assemblies with king pin or our new Pro Steer Ball Joints. See attachment for option/pricing details.



Thank you,

Dan





Dan Seldon

Account Manager

Dynatrac Products Co. , Inc

Office: (714) 596-4461 Ext. 216

Fax: (714) 596-4449



-- email address removed --



Dynatrac



"CONFIDENCE to EXPLORE"
 
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Crap I just did ball joints a couple o months ago what was the pricing on the joints I don't see them on the Dynatrack website
 
The attachments he sent I cannot copy and paste, but the price of a complete, bolt-in Pro 60 front axle with kingpins, solid shafts, premium lockouts, etc. looks to be around $6500. You can add many options like high pinion rock housing, posi, lockers, super-duty competition axles, etc. , etc. , etc. if you have the need and money.

It would be a heckuva a truck with that axle and all the right trackbar, DSS, control arm, T-style linkage, and other steering mods.
 
The Pro Steer balljoints are a $499 upgrade on that Pro 60 axle, so that gives you an idea of what they might cost. I am about to replace my balljoints, so I will be giving Dan a call and find out the price for sure. They have done group buys for us TDR members before and maybe we could swing another...
 
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