Tired of the pill bottle?

[Opz01]

Before installing my new 4" downpipe I had a Moroso weld in nipple welded in at the 1 Oclock Position. After installing the new exhaust I attached a Moroso checkvalve to the nipple. Disguarded my pill bottle and attaching hose. Connected a 4' long piece of 3/4" heater hose from the checkvalve to the cranckcase vent, clamped each end and added a couple of zip ties to aviod riding conditions and voila... No more oil smell, no pill bottle oil to change, no oil mist on the serp belt and the front of the engine stays clean. Total parts cost via Summit $29. 00, heater hose was . 80 a foot.

P/N's are as follows:

Weld in Nipple- MOR-97810 ($9. 99)

Checkvalve- MOR-97800 ($18. 99)

And yes I did test it out at high temps upto 1500 for short runs. As for too much vaccuum I ran upto 3400 rpm in second gear for a while on a trip to Spokane with no problems. As for passing emissions. I guess I will unhook it if it fails then rehook it after it passes.

 

[JRRacing]

just venting

I had sorta same idea but yours is better. The check prevents the exhaust from pressurizing the engine right?



Does the rubber get real hot? Maybe a long piece of copper if it does get too hot I guess.



Are there any concerns about the CAT?







Thanks for sharing the info.

JR

 

[JRRacing]

just venting

I had sorta same idea but yours is better. The check prevents the exhaust from pressurizing the engine right?



Does the rubber get real hot? Maybe a long piece of copper if it does get too hot I guess.



Are there any concerns about the CAT?







Thanks for sharing the info.

JR

 

[Mark_Kendrick]

???Pill bottle??

What is it???



I think i've missed something. . please draw me a picture

 

[dmurdock]

The "pill bottle" is cummins (probably dodge's) extremely lame attempt to keep the engine clean from blow-by. The 24v's don't have crankcase recirculation, the "fumes" from the oil are just vented into the atmosphere. Earlier 24 valves just had a hose which turned down below the valve cover and dumped crap over the front of the engine. After complaints from neat freaks, dodge put a vented bottle at the end of the hose to "catch" all the vented "smudge". The bottle is worthless, actually i think my 98. 5 which just had an open hose was cleaner than my current truck which has the bottle. If you want to see the bottle, just open the hood, and look down between the engine and the fan on the drivers side... you will see black hose which runs straight down into a bottle. The real ticket is to ditch the bottle and extend the hose aft of the engine...

 

[Mark_Kendrick]

Its probably full by now. . 32k and counting



I like the idea of venting it to the exhaust. . much cleaner.

When I put in my BMK15 I had to go to the car wash first, it was filthy. . After a good bath all is fine, but I'll check on the pillbottle

 

[RACE427]

Emissions test

Venting the crankcase pressure which are "blowby gases" through the exhaust system will not cause you to fail an emissions test. The smog test checks for "particulates of carbon" better known as "soot". Blowby gases are Hydrocarbons, not soot, so you will pass!!! This is a drag racing trick to vent the crankcase of drag engines of excessive blowby. It should work out mint and no one will ever know unless they check out your pipes!! Hey, Hey , Hey Hope this helps, Tony G

 

[RADdodge]

Great Idea, and welcome to the TDR!



p. s. It's great that you included the part numbers too. Great first post!

 

[drawson]

Opz01,



caution:



In order for this to work well you must also let some fresh air in. In a drag engine we don't let any fresh air because we are trying to get a vacuum in the crankcase which gives us free HP. If no vent is used it will draw the gaskets in and you'll have a bunch of oil leaks.

 

[Opz01]

Good point Eatmup,

Initailly I did give this some thought and was going to modify my oil cap with a air filter and still may. But after putting a T fitting in the hose there really wasn't much neg pressure. But this is a very good point of concern.

Well, I am a willing guinea pig on this one and its been a couple of weeks so far...

 

[me4osu]

Excessive Vacuum

Opz01

You are probably not seeing this issue with your 4" exhaust. A situation where you will see the greatest vacuum on a side tap is a straight piped system (muffler removed) with stock pipe. This case reduces the back pressure on the turbine, but increases flow velocity through the pipe. The velocity of the gasses passing by the side tap is what induces the vacuum. With your 4" exhaust you have increased the flow area which reduces the velocity of the gasses flowing thruough it.

 

[Opz01]

After receiving mass questions I decided to get actual vaccuum readings.



With the checkvalve side through the hose to a direct vaccuum guage:

At idle indicates 1/4 pd.

At 1000 rpm indicates 1/2 pd.

At 1200 rpm indicates 1/4 pd.

Above 1400 indicates 0 pd.

While coming off of idle to any rpm 1/2 pd then goes to 0 (null)when engine catches upto the rpm gas pedal is depressed to.

This was with truck in park.



With the hose to a "T" fitting (one side to check valve, one to crankcase and the other to vaccuum guage):

At idle 0 pds.

Actually indicated 0 at all rpm ranges.



Next I went for a drive with the "T" fitting setup listed above.

Indicated 0 pds while driving normally. However, I did see about 1/8pd deflection while pulling twards max boost. (37 pounds according to my boost guage. ) And yes I kinda felt like a dork driving around with a hose coming over the top of the hood while doing it.



Do to lack of time and intrest I didn't do the checkvalve to vaccuum while driveing as I feel the "T" fitting ride spoke for itself.



The guages being used arn't calibrated but I think this should dismiss many of the concerns with my setup at the top of this thread. This is the best way I could come up with to get rid of the pill bottle on a tight budget.

 

[me4osu]

Good one

I'll be doing that when I put on a Jardine ell and 4" pipe. I am tired of little oil splatters on my tailgate.

 

[Opz01]

For anyone else considering this installation read these tips/ideas.



1. Buy two check valves and put the spare in your glove box. If you don't most any hardware store will sell a ½" pipe cap for under $2. Which will suffice until you get a new one. (This cap can be used if you decide not to use this system as well. )

2. Don't let the check valve work in the open environment. I did this for a couple of miles in my car and it failed the next time I started the engine.

3. Use high temp antiseize on the check valve threads and only tighten it hand tight. (The hose works kinda like a jam nut when it is properly clamped and zip tied. )

4. Try to use someone who has welded/installed a scavenge nipple before. Use the check valve to make sure the angle the nipple is in isn't too much or too little. Too little and you can't get the check valve on/off. Too much and you will loose efficiency and effect exhaust flow. I even scratched a mark on the nipple to ensure it was clocked right in the downpipe.

5. Install the nipple right after the downpipe transitions from 3"to 4". Lower there will be less vaccuum. Higher and it may effect your EGT's. As you look at the downpipe from the front of the truck, I found that installation is best between the 1:00 and 2:00 o'clock position.

6. (Dry fit it. ) Be sure to thoroughly look things over first, as we all seem to have different installation obstructions.