2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Tires, Wheels, Lift ???

[SMadden]

I have a 99 Dodge, 2500, 4x4, Diesel, Quad cab, Shortbed. I am planning on buying tires, wheels, and a lift this week. Alot of money at one time and it's going to be tight. I am thinking of getting the American racing Atlas wheel or a Eagle 102 in a 16x10 ( both wheels have a 4 1/2" backspace) and 315/75/16 BF AT's. Will I have enough room if I install the D25 springs. I really can't afford the 4. 5 lift so I am going to go as big as I can with the 2. 5 coils. I have searched the internet for 2 days looking at this stuff and I just cant make up my mind on what I want. Some help sure would be nice.

Thanks, Dion

 

[JaMan]

Tires will probubly rub the control arms at full lock and the bumper if you bounce it very hard. A 8" wheel might let you squeeze by. I can rub my 33's at full lock at times but tire to fender clearance is good.







Jared

 

[SGoodman]

Have you thought about a body lift? I have one on a '97 1500 with a six in. skyjacker, but obviously don't tow with that truck. A 2 or 3 in. lift is much cheaper than a bigger lift and would help you pack what would otherwise be pretty tight. Also, I don't know if they can handle the weight of a diesel but I would assume so.

 

[SMadden]

I am not really that worried about the tire rubbing on the control arm at full lock, I can control that. I just don't want any fender or bumper rubbing. I really would rather not go the body lift route. Maybe I will have to drop back to 8" wheels instead. I hope not though because I really want the 10's.

Thanks, Dion

 

[WTBurke]

Hey Dion

I had the same thoughts a year and a half ago. I did the mod after looking around alot and driving some other guys rigs.

I do a lot of hi-way driving as I am a manufacturers technical field rep. and run between San Louis O Bispo CA and Seattle WA. Go all the way or you may not be happy.

I went with the WELDS rims and Goodyear MTR's because they balance and are smooth all the way to 105mph. All the other rigs I drove with less than this choice was pretty lumpy and two had just been balanced.

The lift is very cool and has no clearance problems at all.

Next was the gears... 3:54's don't get it with 35's or better. I just did the 4:10's in November and WOW now it's like it was with the factory "wimpy" tires.

Yeah... none of this was cheap but, damn it's very cool and I will say the old thang "you get what you pay for".

Be very careful with the choice of tires... . the "price-point" rubber is not cool. BTW I'm gonna get 40K out of these rock-crawler tires and yes I rotate every 5k... . at $239 a piece I wanted maximum return.

Good Luck and choose carefully



William

 

[outlawram]

I paid 1025. 00 for my coil spring spacers, 16. 5x10 centerlines with35 inch wild countries. I would not pay much more than that. They only rub when making sharp turns up into my driveway. they are only rubbing on the inside plastic fender liners so no big deal

 

[SMadden]

William, one of the main reasons I am wanting to go to 35's is to knock some of the edge off of the 4:10's. I drive on the highway, running about 72mph, pulling a lightweight Bullet bassboat most of the time. I would love to see them rpms drop just a little.

I love the way that Outlaws tires really fill up them fenderwells. Thats the look I am after without the rub.

Thanks, Dion

 

[DToy]

I'm running 315-75-16 MTR's on 16x8 Eagle wheels with only a leveling kit on my '99. I have no rub at all, control arms or fenders. And with 20K on the MTR's they still look to go another 20-30K easily... and they are wearing evenly even with the 8" wide wheels. I switched from 3. 54's to 4. 10's... you will definitely like the 315's with your 4. 10 gears.