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To BOMB or not to BOMB?

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Ok guys,



Let's just say for the sake of argument I wanted a little more umph from my Cummins, and I was only able to do one upgrade, and the two choices I was looking at were the 275 injectors or a Comp. What would be my best, or most sensible, route to go and why. Keeping in mind I'm not looking to be the biggest, baddest, quickest truck out there. I just want some improved acceleration and pulling power, along with reliability.



Your comments and suggestions are appreciated.
 
Gauges then BOMBS AWAY..... I don't have a over valved truck so I'm not sure which would be a better choice, but if you were going to do just one and if the Comp box is the equivalent to changing the torque plate in the properly valved Cummins then I would say go with the Comp box, but again just guessing..... so many more are much more knowledgeable hopefully they'll let you know which is best.



Darren
 
BOMBitis

Is just the PE EZ safe for running without gauges ?



You shouldn't consider gauges a "BOMB" They are definatly a MUST. You need atleast two gauges,, EGT and Fuel Pressure,, Boost pressure would be an excellent third gauge.



Don't ask why these didn't come from the factory,, to much Political correctness and penny pinching.



I'd say do a Power Edge EZ. It has a very low risk of slipping a standard transmission clutch, or frying an auto transmission. It won't require you to do Exhaust or intake mods to deal with Exhaust Gas Temperatures.



I have the Power Edge Comp and DD1's (comparable to 275's just 25 more HP) With my Dual 3" straight pipes exiting right behind the Quad Cab, and my BHAF and my stock HX-35 at 80 MPH, WOT I can peak about 1500* EGT with the Comp on 5/5. If I recall correctly Cummins Max EGT is 1200, or 1250* (I THINK) it's not higher.



The COMP is a Major fueling box (taps injection pump directly), and will push your truck to "Pay to play" limits a stock Auto transmission or a stock Standard transmission clutch cannot hold the power a COMP box can make your Cummins make.



The PE EZ is a "minor" fueling box, and is "Plug and play" It plugs right into data ports that are underneath your hood. It Is removable, most people report a ~1MPG increase with better low end response and more low-end power.

Even though it seems odd that more power can be more MPG, The EZ box changes the timing of the VP44 to the point that the Engine is making power more efficiently than stock.

Hope this helps ya out.



MerrickNJr



P. S. If you want to ask why the truck didn't come with gauges in the first place,, go ahead,, I just can't think of any other way to word the "Don't ask why it didn't come with gauges" statement.
 
DON'T BOMB IT'S TOO DANGEROUS!!!!

What if it went off accidently and you lost an arm or a leg. That would be terrible.



Why don't you just modify your truck instead. Say a Comp and some DD2's, BHAF and larger exhaust. Heck throw a larger turbo in there too. That would be a lot safer and wayyyy more fun.



Just my unsolicited opinion,



Garrett
 
I decided to go with the Comp box as my first (only?) power upgrade. I plan on running it as an EZ box for now. For about $100 more than the EZ you get inside the cab control and the ability to upgrade power at any time.



Dave.
 
Okay... I'll Jump In Here...

IMHO if your considering ANY performance mods... get the EGT/Boost/Fuel pressure gauges installed first. I know it's not as fun, and they won't give you an ounce of HP, but you'll know what's going on with your truck... Here is my logic for what it's worth:



1. Fuel pressure gauge: Do a thread search on failed lift pumps with the 24V's and you will see that this is a problem. You may get lucky, but if your not, and it takes out the VP44, you'll regret not having the gauge. Also, even if you put in just the Edge EZ, you will slightly increase demand on the lift pump.



2. EGT gauge: Even with just an EZ, there is a chance you could overtemp your engine if towing a heavy trailer. Again, the EZ will slightly change the fueling schedule, and if your boost isn't up to snuff, you can see higher temps.



3. Boost gauge: Ties in with the EZ/EGT. If you get a boost leak, you may not detect it without a boost gauge.



You've spent thousands of dollars on your stock truck. Don't penny pinch on the gauges. A complete set, with mounting, should be less then $300... . HAVE FUN... . ;)
 
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Dave, there was a big thread about it long ago but it's gone. I think the box was removed when the truck was towed in for warranty but the dealer was suspicious and found the owners TDR signature and used it as grounds for warranty denial. Good reason to not use your real name here, but if they want they can still track you down and apparenty will. Here's where the pics came from. The owner of the engine speaks in the last post. https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=28923
 
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illflem-



The pictures you posted above aren't from JNutters truck (VA only). He had a problem with #5. Vaughn was just posting them as an example. I don't know where they came from or what mods were done to cause that.



Dave.



p. s.

I think you're right about that warranty stuff. Isn't that when everybody stopped posting signatures?
 
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dziegler,



I noticed in your other thread that you also recently bought a 25ft TT to tow. You may want to limit your BOMBs to either 275's, stage 1's or an EZ box because that is all that your stock clutch will handle. The comp box will smoke your clutch.



EGT and boost gauges are a must.
 
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