Here I am

to K&N or not to K&N?

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Cavitation erosion (Ford)

New PHORD???

I was given a K&N filter, probably because I bashed them too much (must be fate). Anyway, I cleaned it per dierctions. Now the interesting part, the "recharge kit" contaned a water soluable cleaner and a can of airesol (SP?) oil. The directions in the package describe a squeeze bottle and one squeeze per pleat :mad: WTF? Given the fact the directions dont match the contents of the package, how much oil should be sprayed on? Should it be allowed to dry for a few days after spraying on the oil? Advice please!
 
Ditto on throwing it away. I sold mine for $20 to a friend who just had to have it, after he found I took mine out. BHAF all the way.
 
Bill

I guess it's just you and me who can figure out how to make these things work. :rolleyes:



You guys need some help with the gas cap too?:D
 
I think I need to write something on the proper care and feeding of a K&N air filter. The "problems" I have heard about them could probably be traced to operator error.



The one in my truck works as well if not better than the OEM air filter in my Dad's '99... ... both have over 50K on the clock, and have the same oily buildup on the turbo compressor.



Two weeks ago, I cleaned and re-oiled my filter. At the same time I removed my IATS to see if it was dirty... ... not a spec of dirt or goo on it. Hmmmmm did all the dirt and goo get stuck in the intercooler? I do not think so.



Bottom Line!

K&N's work great if they are maintained correctly!
 
Use the K&N. Even if the turbo gets a little oily it shouldn't hurt anything. Remember, oil is more viscous than dirt! This is why you see dirt on the ouside of the filter, not the inside. A small amount of the oil that is applied to the filter element is being sucked into the turbo. Obviously, when the oil is applied to the filter, it absorbd through the entire material (front & back). Since the turbo is creating a vacuum, some of the air, flowing through the filter, picks up some of the oil from the backside of the filter (turbo side) which is clean oil. The dirt is stopped on the outside of the filter, by the oil and the filter. As far as oiling the filter, I always oil each pleat at the top, and let the oil soak down between pleats. Let it sit for maybe 30 minutes or so, re-oil and bare spots, then put it in. The only reason they tell you to wait is that the oil will spread out and soak into the different areas of the filter.
 
Originally posted by LarryB

Bill

I guess it's just you and me who can figure out how to make these things work. :rolleyes:



You guys need some help with the gas cap too?:D

Larry I believe you are right. There are many folks who should just stick with the OEM filter and have the dealer install it. Same guys who break their oil drain plugs when tightening and need a fancy valve on the pan.
 
here's what you guys that are stuck with a kn filter can do to make it more like the amsoil and oem filter. get a peice of 1\2" foam, then cheaply glue it to the air side or your kn. yeah you are going to have great filtration , for about a month. then, either the foam will seperate from your kn and stop the air flow altogether, or the foam prefilter will get so dirty that your truck can't breathe. unless you are plowing fields with your truck, the kn is an excellent filter. five million miles, and no engine problems due to filtration, on our fleet, is all the convincing that i need. i'm still waiting to hear the post that states, "engine fried, kn to blame" when that happens, i might change my mind, but until then simple common sense maint and oiling of the kn has saved us a bundle. i trust them and run them in every piece of equipment that we operate , when applicable.
 
Any guys trying to increase HP levels past the factory levels should shy away from the Amsoil air filters. They are one of the most restrictive filters for the Dodge Cummins you can get.



K&N has always worked well for me. No oiled down turbine blades. A little anecdotal data: I pulled my cylinder head off the truck a week ago and found the cylinders were still very round. The cross hatch patterns were still there. There was no top ring groove like you find in worn cylinders. The wear was so slight that I was amazed. I have done two oil analysis and found the levels of silicon to be 1 and 2 respectively. 1 and 2 hardly even count. No elevated levels of crap are getting by my filter.



Don~
 
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