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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) To lube or not to lube.....ARP

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JGheen

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It's been a while since my last re-torque on my ARP studs, probably about 4 months and I will be doing one this weekend since I will be adjusting the valves. So I wanted to ask if anyone re-applies the ARP moly lube to their studs when doing a re-torque after such a long time? I know all the original lube has most likely washed off under the valve covers and some is probably gone on the rest of them from previous engine wash downs but should I go ahead and apply some fresh lube to each nut and stud when I do my line torque tomorrow? I would think it would be a good idea but I thought I would ask if anyone else does.



Thanks, Joe
 
I certainly would relube the nuts, stud tops and both sides of the flat washers. I didn't have any ARP moly lube leftover from the install of the studs, so I used some high quality chassis grease that contained moly:rolleyes:. Maybe next time I'll get another package of the arp moly.
 
I've read some guys torque to 100 ft/lb some to 125 ft/lb and now 130 ft/lb. What is the actual torque spec for ARP's? I have the 12mm studs. When you retorque, are you supposed to remove the nuts and washers, lube them and reinstall? Or just retorque as is? Thanks
 
When I have used ARP studs on gas motors, the instructions always included torque specs for 30 weight oil and with thier lube. I'd say call ARP if you lost the instructions.

30 weight oil always has a higher number than thier supplied lube.
 
The ARP specs are 122 ft-lbs with 30 weight oil and 90 ft-lbs for ARP moly lube. That will bring the bolt to 75% of yield. There are a lot of guys torquing the 12mm studs (myself included) to 125 ft-lbs with the ARP lube without issue.



When you re-torque, you should remove the nut and washer, re-lube, install and torque down. The lube helps ensure the lowest possible friction when torquing so that the torque values area accurate.
 
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