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Took the HEAD OFF today..PICTURES*****

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Rail Pressure at 70+mph with EZ

Super Chips Engine Tuner

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nickleinonen said:
yep, that is very true on gas engines, but from what i have seen in 4 valve diesel heads, there is very little size difference [compared to gassers] between the intake and exhaust valves. .





this pic shows the valves in a ge fdl cylinder pack. in & ex. almost identical in size... the bore is about 9. 5"



exactly... he asked shouldn't the exhaust be bigger... no... it's already very large compared to most engines where the intake valve/valves are larger than the exhaust :D
 
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Dad blew the OEM head gasket in his 12-valve about a week ago (370's/022's, 21° timing, water/meth, 150k miles = :eek: for the head gasket :-laf ). The HG had spots on just about every cylinder where the fire rings were a bit leaky...



His pistons also had very minor impressions from the intake valves. He runs a PDR cam and had all OEM valve springs.



He got it fired off yesterday and he's now running a stock Cummins HG, ARP 12mm studs, HD springs, o-rings, and I told him to back off the timing a bit (to make it easier to start in the MA winters for snowplowing more than anything... ).



Matt
 
jwilliams3 said:
Yeah!! :-laf :-laf ;)



Hand held scotch brite pads and wd40.



jwilliams3 one word of caution on scotch brite I read once. Someone posted they used to build engines and had lost a few after doing head jobs. Finally figured out it was the scotch brite they were using to clean the block decks with. If you did use scotch brite you'll want to change your oil right away and probably again very shortly thereafter. Supposedly scotch brite fibers go right through filter media and are harsh on bearings. Not sure if there's any truth to this but just passing on something someone posted once.



Vaughn
 
Vaughn,

Thats good advice. I have already planned to change the oil after a very short duration after getting the engine back up and running.



Yes, scotch brite is hard on things and can clog the oil nozzle's but the good thing is that the filter will catch most particles and the oil has to pass through the filter before it gets to the bearings again.



Thanks
 
Forrest Nearing said:
I've always been a razor blade man myself :cool:



at work i use an air sander and 3" abrasive discs like below for grinding down gaskets on everything...

#ad




they work well, but headgaskets are never done on our current engines [the new gevo engines have a metal fire ring as the head gasket]
 
Nick- I wouldn't use them in any area that would let the debris into the oil. GM released a bulletin a few years ago about the 3M scotch brite type pads and the fact that the grit will pass through an oil filter and make short work of the bearings. They also released one saying not to use the "bristle wheels" that 3M also markets. I personally have seen two engines wind up with rod knocks from these pads. Take that for what its worth.
 
that the grit will pass through an oil filter and make short work of the bearings



on my own engine i would be careful.



but on the old beaters i work on at work, you should see what i find in the engines. . i have found flashlights, sockets, ratchets, main bearings, con rod bearing, nuts, bolts and even a hardhat once... i have taken those 3" discs and used them to clean up a damaged crank so it could be put back into service. the emd and ge engines i work on can take quite a beating. when those engines get a water leak that goes into the air box, the borate-nitrate we use in the water treatment drys into almost sand... that grinds the liners pretty badly. .
 
Yup - it's the guy who started the thread. Do a search on member xcumminsx here... you don't need soap operas and the comics (every day) after reading his posts!
 
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