Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) tools for gov lever adj

[bd450]

Anyone know what tools are required or best for a Gov lever Adj?



Had my AFC housing off today and my lever definitely rides just under my #8 plate. Could not even begin to get the P7100 rear cover bolts out. Whats the deal here? Is a thin wall socket required or am I missing something? It it 10mm head even?



I was quickly running out of daylight and wrench time so I just slid the plate forward ~. 060 (for now) to see if I can get back the 6psi of Boost I lost after puttin in the Gov springs (many moons ago).



TIA

 

[Jim Fulmer]

On my pump the screws on the back are flat heads so I take a pair of vise grips and clamp on to and loosen them, If you use a 1/4 drive 10 MM to loosen the nut you will be better off then just turn the screw and watch the arm by advancing the throttle with your other hand. Be dang sure you don't loosen the nut or screw too much as they will fall into the pump and make sure the cover gasket is on when you button it up.



Jim

 

[Dave Remillard]

The bolts on mine are round head bolt's with straight blade screwdiver slots. I have yet to try this, but I intend to try a 1/4" socket that has the flat blade screw driver on it. Not much room in there is why I would opt for the 1/4" drive. I really don't need to adjust mine as the govenor arm is in proper alignment with my cam plate. Good luck.

 

[Joe G.]

no-strokin,



That's exactly what I did. I got a socket out of an old cheap 1/4" set I had laying around that would fit over the screw head. Then sawed a slot it in for a blade. That worked fine.

 

[JJW_ND]

#11 Plate no need for adjustment!

I finally check mine and did not have to adjust.



Has any body with a #11 plate needed to?



The design of the plate allows for lots of leaway. This plate does not have the "V" nose that some of the other plates have.



jjw

ND

 

[LHallmark]

Gov. lever adj.

bd450:

Mine also a 96..... The screws holding the backplate on the rear of the gov had round screws with screwdriver slots, and there was also safety wire locking the two screws together. After removing the safety wire I used vice grips to break the screws loose, then stubby screw driver to remove them. These two screws went into the trash once removed, and were replaced with 10mm hex heads.

A deep well 1/4" drive socket to loosen the locket nut, then use a pair of vicegrips to hold the socket on the locknut while you adjust the lever. (that takes a small blade screwdriver). I slipped a piece of 1/4" plastic tubing onto the shaft of the adjustment screw, then slid the deepwell onto the tubing and the locknut. Then the small bladed screwdriver went inside the tube and made the adjustment soooooo much easier.

As someone else mentioned, be careful of the gasket under the back plate cover..... If it comes out... :{ :{ :{ . A mirror and a LOT of patience required to get it back in. (Thats experience talking)

Take your time and good luck.

 

[JGK]

JJW-ND,



I have the Bully Dog equivalent of a TST #11 plate and I had to adjust the lever on mine. Made a big difference.



JK