TOP 10 FROM 2023 PART VII: STARTING BATTERIES

[TDRComm]

This week on the TDR we’re back to the editor’s Best of 2023 article list. From TDR Issue #120 is #7 on the list, James Langan’s article on purchasing starting batteries. James takes us along on his journey exploring, researching and pondering different battery brands, specifications, and price points.

He asks the same questions we are thinking about such as:

• How long can they last?
• How long should they last?
• Is it worth your money to buy the more expensive options?
• Is it worth your time to plug in your truck to extend battery life?

He then offers his detailed insights to help us determine the best answers. Ultimately, James has done the homework for us and helps us to make our own decisions. After reading this, you’ll be better prepared for the next time you need to replace your truck’s batteries.

Below we invite you to read this free “sample” article from the TDR (and perhaps be inspired to subscribe!).

The Editor’s TOP TEN:
“Reflections at 100K Miles/10 Years” – by James Langan, Issue 122, pages 76-83
“Jack and Jim Drive the Tesla Model Y” – by Jack Baruth/Jim Pantas, Issue 122, pages 104-110
“2023 Accessory Update” – by Robert Patton, Issue 122, pages 12-21
“Adjust the Bands” – by Moses Ludel, Issue 121
“Faster, Higher, Farther” - First Review Issue 120/ Second Review/121 – both by Robert Patton
“Clearances” – by Mark Barnes, Issue 121, pages 56-58

“Shopping for Batteries” – by James Langan, Issue 120, pages 86-91
--Click HERE to Read—

“BITW – Lots of Big Picture News” – by Robert Patton, Issue 120, pages 42-51
“Biodiesel (By Any Other Name)” – by John Martin, Issue 120, pages 96-99
“Cooling System Maintenance” – by Moses Ludel, Issue 119, pages 94-100
“SEMA Performance Parts Update” – by Robert Patton, Issue 119, pages 18-21

ABOUT JAMES LANGAN
James Langan has been the author of the Turbo Diesel Register magazine column, “Still Plays With Trucks” since 2014. As a writer for the TDR, he has the distinction of being one of the founding subscribing members, since 1993. He is a journalist and photographer whose technical automotive insights have covered not only Ram Turbo Diesel trucks but four-wheel-drive vehicles of all types, motorcycles, and other implements (!) of fun - on and off the tarmac. James has written for several publications including having been the premier journalist for 13 years for the Power Stroke Registry, and later, a technical editor for Overland Journal. Within his blog, www.RoadTraveler.net, you’ll find a wealth of useful information including his hands-on reviews of parts, accessories and tools; plus information, discussion, instructions and tips on 4X4s, recreation vehicles, motorcycles, travel, wheels & tires, and most certainly, Ram Turbo Diesel trucks.


If you’re a new visitor to the TDR’s website or a “lapsed” TDR member, we hope you’ll enjoy these articles and SUBSCRIBE to the magazine and join us officially.

As always, we’re glad you stopped by!
The TDR Staff

 

[Tuesdak]

Plenty of informative posts by members including myself already on The TDR.

I have been using AGM's since Optima made them in Colorado in the early 1990's. Dad proved them on air cooled single cylinder diesel light plants on a job site that ran all night 365 days a year. Those things vibrated like crazy and would ruin FLA batteries quickly. The AGM's outlasted the FLA's. Diesel engines vibrate more than gas engines esp. the higher compression ones so there is an advantage. When they moved their manufacturing to Mexico my experience is they no longer recover from being overdischarged as reliably as they used too. Today Optima is more likely to short a cell from being overdischarged. Yes, I went through core battery piles recovering overdischarged Optima's in the 1990's. Some light plants would run out of fuel and drain the starting battery flat dead. They got replaced and a majority could be recovered.

Now an overdischarged Optima is more likely to have a shorted cell causing a dangerous condition with a charger that doesn't check voltage before charging like modern ones do. You hear a battery hissing like this you go and throw the doors open and then trip the breaker far away from it! This is why a modern charger won't turn on at or below ~10V today.



Best not to overdischarge a battery in the first place.

If that corroded terminal on the battery was from an AGM it's a rare condition from a cracked seal. Spillproof that AGM's brag about is NOT leakproof. Here is a leaking unused top post while using the GM side terminals. I had several do this to me.

Because of the sulfur smell you may have experienced a rare "thermal runaway" battery failure that would have released many nasty gases corroding the terminals alone. Good call for the Fire Department. Too Bad they didn't suspect H2S gas!!! Yeah not well understood how they give this off during thermal runaway, but, they can.

One of the reason I pays my money for an AGM is not for longer life but avoiding replacing expensive battery cables from FLA, Flooded Lead Acid, that love to spew acid. Esp. with the higher charging voltage ~15V my 2003 RAM used. I experience nearly zero acid covered battery tops and corroded cables with AGM except for a few Red Tops that did leak.

AGM's charge faster (take higher amperage) esp. during the bulk phase of charging. This can give one longer life in some conditions if the AGM gets to a full charge where the FLA doesn't. Not getting a full charge often will slowly sulfate both kinds of batteries to death. I use Deep Cycle Lifeline AGM's in my RV specifically for the higher amps during charging as National Parks I boondock in have limited generator hours. Bulk charge for the limited 2 hours in the AM on generator and let lower amp solar top off the batteries all day.

Not all AGM's are the same. The cheap ones Generally and especially Deka can't stand the heat. Consumer Report's mild heat tests managed to kill the Deka AGM's. Can't take the heat Get Out From Under My Hood!

As pointed out by TDR members concerned about warranty: check out Batteries Plus who offer a 4 year warranty (recently down from 5 years) on their X2 Northstar relabel AGM's and the Odyssey brand ... oh wait Enersys owns both Northstar and Odyssey now.

Average life in years is a useless number to write about in a nationwide magazine without referencing the temperature it was used in. 5 Years old here, aside of being simply rare, is begging for a Tow Truck to go get them from battery failure. Here it's around 105F-121F in the summer... And two year battery life is doing good with some not making it much over one year. You replace them in the fall on year two to avoid battery failure sometime in the 3rd year. The heatwave that just cooked the west IS going to result in a bunch of starting battery failures this fall with people scratching their heads about sudden shorter than their usual battery life. I lost every single starting battery I had from the summer it didn't cool down like it usually does overnight. (And a record power bill to back the average high temp up with.)

I reference and quote The Lifeline Technical Manual under Temperature Considerations.
https://lifelinebatteries.com/knowledge-center/

As a rule of thumb, the battery life decreases by 50% for every 10⁰C rise in temperature. Thus, a battery that lasts 6 years at
25⁰C (77F) will last 3 years at 35⁰C (95F), 1.5 years at 45⁰C (113F), and 0.75 years at 55⁰C (131F).

Putting batteries in the hot under hood compartment really isn't smart for hot weather. Offhand the temperature of the A/C condenser is ~160F and radiator 205F. The battery blankets slow down that Heat Blast into the battery. They also keep the batteries warmer in cold weather slowing down their cooling. Don't overlook fan rotation blasting the passenger side battery hotter than the other should one want to test battery temperatures with and without blankets. Frugal or Cheap doesn't apply: The cost of new battery blankets is a rounding error with the cost of two batteries!

I do wish Odyssey would make an Extreme edition for my 2018 Cummins. The Performance line was cooked off, under warranty, during that summer that never cooled down. (Battery blankets in use.) The case bulge was impressive on both of em.

I currently am running the X2's in my 2018, it's 3rd set of batteries, and regularly top them off with a battery tender as suggested by a member of the TDR who had unheard of long life in Phoenix, AZ with X2's. (Prior the X2's were not in stock due to supply chain shortages and I was lucky to even find two of the Odyssey's at the time.) Other stuff I use Yellow Tops for their better tolerance of deep cycling and convenience. I won't set foot in an Autozone for an Odyssey after they fired a Veteran for stopping a robbery in their store aka "No Hero Policy" and Batteries Plus is too far out of my way to go often.

Omitted but important to mention replace both batteries at the same time if one fails. RAM's Warranty doesn't. The old battery will MURDER the new battery before it's time sometimes really quickly.

One last thing Lead Acid Batteries, although highly recycled, are troublesome, heavy, and obsolete vs. Li technology. Cheap is the only reason they are still used today.

 

[TDRGuy]

Always great to have TDR members add on to an article with their experiences.

Thanks "Tuesdak."

RP

 

[LorenStrodtman]

One last thing Lead Acid Batteries, although highly recycled, are troublesome, heavy, and obsolete vs. Li technology. Cheap is the only reason they are still used today.

You're on your 3rd set of batteries in a 6 year old truck; maybe cheaper is the better option in this case. I put lead-acid batteries in my truck almost 6 years and over 80k miles ago, starting temps from -20F to over 100F. I do have an onboard trickle charger/desulfator on the truck when it sits for a while - a lesson learned from Moses Ludel.

 

[Tuesdak]

You're on your 3rd set of batteries in a 6 year old truck; maybe cheaper is the better option in this case. I put lead-acid batteries in my truck almost 6 years and over 80k miles ago, starting temps from -20F to over 100F. I do have an onboard trickle charger/desulfator on the truck when it sits for a while - a lesson learned from Moses Ludel.

Good question. I look beyond just the cost the the battery itself. Otherwise a Hemi pickup would do the job, but, I spent the money for a HO Cummins.

I have only paid for one set of new batteries of the 3 sets. I buy a warranty and expect to use it. So my battery ROI is ~1-2 years after the warranty time expired and it's not the original but a warranty replacement. It's hard to wrap one's head around short battery life from the extreme heat. The heat is made worse by near year around A/C use keeping underhood temps higher and not cooling down so much overnight. Again the 30 day difference in longer life an AGM may give me is lost in warranty and NOT the reason I choose them anymore. I have had an AGM's go the distance of 7 years here and died in the body shop when the vehicle was totaled, but it was the exception being one out of 4 purchased that day. And again generally they don't make it that long here so I do not expect longer life in the ROI.

My 6+ year old Deep Cycle Lifeline AGM RV batteries not subject to underhood heat is lasting longer than FLA. Install thread from ~2018.
https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/rv-house-batteries-for-dry-camping.259757/

If I wanted longer battery life relocating them out from under the hood would clearly solve the problem. Move em in the bed, under the bed, anywhere but the high hot underhood area. With a Batteries Plus 5 (now only 4 offered) year warranty it's not worth the cost and trouble to do so.

Next cost is the battery cables and the electronic devices my 2018 has at the battery terminals. Cheapest flooded lead acid batteries have a regular habit of spewing acid all over those. AGM has a win for way better odds on not corroding them and the cables up. I don't need to clean the battery connections with AGM's. (Generally only when battery replaced.)

Last is the "performance" of AGM Vs. Flooded Lead Acid. AGM perform better with CCA's that are higher, available till the battery is overdischarged, and they charge faster. Starting a cantankerous cold blooded IDI that's down on compression and past it's best if rebuilt/replaced date one comes to appreciate the advantages of an AGM. If you ever experience a hard starting situation for whatever reason your odds are better if it can eventually start that the AGM will hold out long enough to get that last 2 RPM it needs to light off.

The trickle charger and extra charging in general is a very good idea! Online research indicates most batteries returned die from being sulfated: not being topped off on charge enough or the constant drain and sitting keeping the state of battery charge low. The sulfate builds up and isn't removed by charging. Eventually the battery is murdered by this. Top off charging is a way to reduce this problem.

Note: Trickle chargers have Re-Imagined specs that don't handle the 29F-121F temps we can see here. They cry "UNCLE!" at a mere 104F, a temperature a large part of The USA has seen in heat waves this past summer. (This brand no longer even lists an expensive industrial line that is rated for a higher ~120F temp.)

https://no.co/genius10

No. Not ANY Climate. Just any climate that's not 104F+ (or too cold.)

 

[Diesel85]

I am a firm believer in trickle chargers with high frequency desulphation modes.

I have been using the Schumacher SC1300 onboard battery charger/maintainer on my fleet for almost two decades. Because of this, I've had batteries last well over 10 years.

Best of all, they cost peanuts to operate.