Torklift Stable Load Question

[Dreamer]

Just opened the box and there are 4 metal frames with the stable loads. No idea where these go or what they are for. No instructions included. Anyone know?

 

[SnoKing]

http://www.torklift.com/products/stableload.php

 

[Dreamer]

Can't find anything on their site regarding these frames and they are closed today and tomorrow so I can't call. I need to put them on today as I am travelling.

 

[RBridenbaugh]

You don't need the frames for the Stable loads. You have two options on installing them on the '05 3500.

1.) Remove the wheel well lining. Remove the existing bump stops. Replace them with the Stable Loads.

If you want to engage the stable loads even earlier then use option 2 like I did.

2.) Remove the wheel well lining. Remove the existing bump stops. Spray a silicone lubricant on the existing stud in the removed bump stop and pound it out. Thread the stable load stud through the hole in the original bump stop and mount them back into the location of the original bump stops.

The bump stop to the rear with the Stable Load will look like this when the truck camper is not in the back:

#ad


The forward bump stop is more difficult to see.

Note: you can install the bump stop to the rear without removing the fender liner, but the bump stop towards the front is much more difficult.

 

[campertruck]

I have these on my truck also however I did't leave the original stops on. I may revisit this and put them back so they engage earlier. I am happy with how they work as is and the truck drops just a couple inches with an 11' 6" Lance on the back.
Nice simple idea that puts those helper springs to work instead of just sitting there ..

 

[JJPage]

Homemade version...

 

[Dreamer]

Thanks for those that clarified the "frames" were not necessary on a Dodge. I installed without removing the inner liners because my mud flaps have a lot of fasteners and it was too much work. I agree it would be easier without the fender liners. What was a huge hassle was the length of the bolts on the stable loads. They are 3 times longer than necessary and make it impossible to get them into the frame holes even after pumping my air bags to 90 psi to lift the truck. I ended up cutting 1 1/4 inches of thread off and still was not enough. Should have whacked at least 1 1/2 or more. After hacking the threads, it is a challenge getting the nuts on. This whole process could have been simple if the threads were shorter. If I had a jack and raised the truck it might have been easier but I'm at a campsite so tools are at a minimum. Pain in the as&$

 

[JJPage]

After hacking the threads, it is a challenge getting the nuts on.

Glad you got them installed Dreamer, worth the effort and you're sure to like them. Anytime you have to hacksaw a bolt to length, it is always wise to thread the nut on the bolt prior to cutting, then after the cut, simply unthread the nut and it will clean the "hacksawed" threads up..somewhat..

Jess

 

[Dreamer]

Good tip Jess. I also cleaned up the cut with a small file. I threw away the skinny nuts that came with them and replaced them with a stainless nut and a stainless lock nut on each stud. Don't want one bouncing down the highway like my factory one did.