Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Torque converter locking and unlocking.

[DavidGardner]

Been having trouble with my torqe converter going in and out of lock up. Tried the spraying of WD 40 on the TPS and working the throttle cable back and forth. worked for a short time. Need to remove and seperate the wires from the loom. I know at one time some one from this web site offered a kit to replace the wires (out side of the loom) (shrenden?). Anyway is it hard to seperate the wires? If anyone has done this is there any tips or words of advice as to what to do or not do?



Thanks in advance.

Dave Gardner.

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

Moving this to the 12v forum where it should be.

 

[fox]

Wrong product!!!

Use electrical parts cleaner instead. It most likely is the TPS but do a search on it and read some about this. Make sure you don't read about the 24 valve trucks. They have a similar problem but the answer is different.

 

[Howard Durand]

If your truck just started doing this, it is most likely the TPS getting erratic. I don't think the 94 and 95 trucks have had much of a problem with noisy wiring like the later ones do. Remove the TPS and soak it good with electonic parts cleaner then put a coat of silicone grease on the hub where it turns to keep moisture out.

If you have an ohmmeter, connect it between the middle terminal and each of the outside terminals one at a time. Rotate the hub and see if the meter moves smoothly. If it is erratic, replace the TPS.

Connect the meter between the outside terminals and you should read about 2400 ohms. The reading between the middle terminal and each of the end terminals will vary between about 350 and 2750 ohms as you turn the hub. The readings are approximate but the main thing is that the change is smooth.

 

[WBusa]

Been having trouble with my torqe converter going in and out of lock up. Tried the spraying of WD 40 on the TPS and working the throttle cable back and forth. worked for a short time.

You should also check the voltage output of the TPS. There've been several threads on how to do this, and how to rotate the TPS if the voltage is low. WD40 (or electrical contact cleaner, which would have been my choice) isn't going to help if your TPS is getting old, but rotation prolly will.

 

[Joe G.]

As fox pointed out, don't use WD40. It's a water displacement product, not a lube or cleaner. Contact cleaner is what you want.

 

[ABorchard]

Instructions for TPS adjustment here



http://dodgeram.org/tech/transmission/automatic/TPS_adjust.htm

 

[Howard Durand]

I read Bill Kondolay's comments on TPS adjustment. What he says about adjusting the voltage higher causing the TC to stay locked when the foot is raised is true.

I find that it happens when TPS idle voltage is at or above 1. 2 volts. For me, this is good as I can use the natural braking available from the engine or can engage the exhaust brake without using the mystery switch. If I know I will also have to use the foot brake on a long downhill, I lock the TC with the switch during that time.

 

[cramseyc]

I had trouble with my TC unlocking, it ended up being the brake light switch in the cab.

 

[Fordiesel69]

I took mine off and here is the best way to do it. Buy a can of CRC "QD Electronic Cleaner". You can get it at autozone. Fill the hub and use a srewdriver to rotate the sensor back and fourth. Fill the hub at least 10-15 times and keep rotating it. I rotated until the cleaner soaked in or evaporated before filling again.



When does, put dielectic grease all over the backside and in the hub to help keep water out, or spray some contact cleaner with teflon inside as a last measure.

 

[Joe G.]

That may or may not work. Some have opened it up with a dremel tool and cleaned it that way. The service manual adjustment instructions don't work very well and may mess up your idle. Others have disabled the TPS. See this thread:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...mission-1994-1998/156901-tps-myth-buster.html