Torque convertor choice

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Please help, Lockup clutch just went again, need to replace convertor. Please advise what your recommended convertor is and why. Have 96 3500, TST 250hp plate, 4" exhaust, always pulling 8k lb trailer. May be upgrading to larger trailer, and/or adding slide in camper, so looking for best combo for towing.

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Rodney Brooks, 96 3500 Ext Cab 4x4 AT

 

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If you don't have it already, put in a 3-position lock up switch. Get in the habit of always manually locking it yourself under light load, and forget about the "as built" automatic lockup. Lock it up when conditions are right, and when you're able to let off the foot feed for a moment. I've gto 110,000 on mine, and have pulled a lot of heavy stuff with it, and so far it still feels like new, even with close to 250 HP. (I could have fried it in the first few months but never did feel safe letting lock up under load) Put your self in control of when & how lock up occurs, and you can make the TC last as long as the the truck does. The only time my switch is in the "stock" position is when my wife has to borrow it for some reason, and she's doesn't want to fool with the lock up switch... . DDG

 

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RBrooks,

I am putting in a TC by Sun Coast. I lost my trannie last week while on vacation in MT. I should get it back tomorrow and start breaking it in.

I'll let you know what I think.

I have a 94k on my 3500 automatic. I pull heavy often. Currently I'm pulling a 14k 5er in the Rockies. I pull other loads as well.


I agree about getting a lock up switch. I have a BD preasure lock and torque lock on mine, along with a BD exhaust brake.

You may want to talk to Piers at BD. I spoke to him the first time last week. Piers knows more about what his product do than anyone else I've spoken with at BD. Heck of a nice guy.

The folks at Sun Coast have been a real help too.

Hope this helps some.

Bill Cook

 

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RBrooks:

I own the same year truck as you do.
I recently replaced my stock torque
converter with a "Pro-Torque" TC and
a complete BD Valve Body. My stock TC
didn't fail but started to "shudder"
real bad on hills and sometimes on
takeoff.

I am not real happy with the take-off
performance of this new TC. The stall
speed is around 1600 down from 2000 on
the stock TC. When I punch it to the
floor there is about a 2-3 second delay
before the truck takes off. However,
once it gets going it pulls REAL hard
and smooth to redline with no slippage
at all.

What I am trying to say is be careful
of this stall speed with the aftermarket
TC'S. Have them "custom build" a TC with
performance like you want it.

I previously posted in "12 Valve Engine
and Drivetrain" on this subject under
the title "BD Pressure Loc Question".
Other TDR members posted to the subject
and helped me out alot. Two other TDR
members have had the same performance
problem that I have. Please check out
my post in the archives. (I hope it is
still their!)

Hope this helps you some. Good Luck!

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John_P.

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Red '96 4x4 2500 Auto 3. 54, TST #5, Pump Mods, Banks Exhaust, Prime Loc, Cummins Chrome Kit, Pro-Torque Converter, BD Valve Body, Sendel 16" Alum Wheels w/ 33" BFGs

 

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I concur with John_P. I too have the 1600 rpm
stall speed converter and have the same lag off the line. It's a great converter and if I didn't try to drag race it, it wouldn't even be noticeable. Also, I'm wondering about winter driving and the TC being "engaged" at low rpm while coming to a stop on ice or slick snow. Will the truck have a tendence to push or what... ? Just my $. 02 worth.


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97 2500, extcab,Auto, 4x4. BFG 295/85/16 AT, JRE Stage III plate, AFC spring kit, 230 injectors, K&N, 4" Edwards Exhaust with Dynomax straight through racing muffler & 5"tip, (Cat got "lost"), EGT, boost, oil& transmission temp. gages, Low Stall torque conv. & BD valve body, silencer ring "exiled", Grover Emergency air horn and a multitude of strobe lights and switches (Vol. firefighter)

 

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Dennis, I had been thinking about a switch to turn the lockup feature off. This would allow a split between 3rd and 4th, and allow locking only under correct conditions. Can you explain how you installed yours? I probably would not go 3 position as I don't yet see a reason to have a manual lockup. (No Exhaust brake etc. ) With just stock or unlock as the two choices, it seems that i could just tie into the signal to the relay.

My convertor has just started the shuddering, but this is the second convertor to do this, so I would like to upgrade. Would prefer to have as much automatic features as possible, as often do 1000 mile trips in the middle of the nite going to and from races. Sometimes with other people driving, so as little training as possible is good, plus eliminates chance of screwup.

 

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I mounted a long stem, black "On-OFF-ON" switch about 1" below the turn signal lever. Mine's a 97, and without going out & looking, can't remember for sure how it's wired. I found the diagram in an old TDR (issue #19 TOP of P. 55, "center off optional"). It was simple though, took about 15 minutes tops.

1. The full rearward position is "stock" and functions as delivered without a switch. (for when others drive it)

2. "Center" is off. If locked up, moving to center unlocks the TC, if driving in center off, lockup will not occur.

3. Full forward locks the TC, and it stays locked until you move it back to center or to the rear. You get the advantage of some engine braking, but remember to turn it "off" or to the stock position at about 1,000 RPM, or it wants to kill the engine when stopping, just like the 5-spd when you forget to push in the clutch.

 

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I do not have issue 19, can anybody scan that page and post it for me? Would be greatly appreciated.

 

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I used to have that same 2-3 sec. lag on take off from a standing start. My converter said 1425 stall on the box, purchased from TST. Since installing the 370s the truck takes off instantly as the trottle is being depressed. The 370s gave it the low end grunt needed to pull this converter. Doesn't matter whether I am starting up a hill or not. I was at 13000 lbs GCVW starting up a 6% grade and no problem. Don't know if the injectors will do the same for guys with the 3. 54, but if you have the 4. 10, I know it will eliminate that lag.

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1996 3500 Clubcab SLT, auto, 4. 10 limited-slip, TST #5, 370s, AFC spring kit, Psycotty, Dunrite converter, Trans-Go, Straight pipe, DiPricol EGT, boost & trans temp. gauges, 9 ft. aluminum flatbed and tool boxes with Venco dump. Custom front bumper, Hadley air horn.

 

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Koa Man:

Sounds like your gears are also helping your take-off. I dunno what the stall speed is on my BD extra-tight unit, but it's really lethargic when I have the camper loaded and the car on the trailer. It'll barely move, and almost WON'T move going uphill.

I put in some 230 injectors which helped a little, but still not significantly under those conditions, but I also have 3. 54 gears. I've been figuring that 4. 10s would be necessary, and then maybe add a GV box later. I am, however, wondering if the 230's were a bad idea and I should have instead gone with 370's. Hmmm.

To anybody who has the wiring info for the 3-pos lockup switch, PLEASE email me with it if you would. I can think of numerous times when I'd like to keep the converter unlocked to keep the RPMs higher so EGTs stay down, and this would be great of I can wire it up this weekend before I leave Colorado for Topeka.

Thanks.

Rob

 

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Ditto... I would like the 3 position wiring daigram as well ASAP.

 

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Here's the wiring info for the 2-pos. switch.
I think the only difference for the 3-pos is that instead of connecting the ground wire TO the pin 54/B11 wire, you CUT the pin 54/B11 wire, and run one end to the middle post on the 3-pos switch, and the other end of the pin 54/B11 wire to one of the end posts on the switch. the remaining end post on the switch connects to ground... ..... DDG http://www.tstproducts.com/tranny_install.html

[This message has been edited by Dennis Garrett (edited 09-07-2000). ]

 

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Koa Man:

Your recent post on how the 370 injectors
have taken care of your "2-3 second lag"
was VERY encouraging to me!! Thank you so much for the information! Man, I can't imagine how your truck must have been with stall speed of 1425!!!! I just got
off the phone with Joe Donnelly and am
about to order the 370 injectors. Did you
order yours directly from Joe or go to BD?

I realize your truck has the 4. 10 gears
and that may make a difference but Joe
felt they should help me too.

Koa Man, thank you so much for your
input, not only to RBrooks but to me
too!

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Sincerely,
John_P.


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Red '96 4x4 2500 Auto 3. 54, TST #5, Pump Mods, Banks Exhaust, Prime Loc, Cummins Chrome Kit, Pro-Torque Converter, BD Valve Body, Sendel 16" Alum Wheels w/ 33" BFGs

 

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TO: RobG:

Rob, I should have posted to you in my
last message with Koa. Sorry about that!

You mentioned in your post that you
put the 230 injectors in your truck
and that they "helped a little. "
Before you do anything, let me be
your "guinea pig" as I intend to
get the 370's on the way tomorrow.
Once I get them installed and have
my pump "recalibrated" I will get
back to you in a subject area or
I will e-mail you. Shouldn't be
more than a week or so.

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John_P.

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Red '96 4x4 2500 Auto 3. 54, TST #5, Pump Mods, Banks Exhaust, Prime Loc, Cummins Chrome Kit, Pro-Torque Converter, BD Valve Body, Sendel 16" Alum Wheels w/ 33" BFGs

 

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John P,
My truck before the 370s wasn't too bad on take offs even up hills AFTER the 3 sec. lag passed and boost was up. Then it would go like hell. Now it just goes like hell instantly! I got the 370s from Joe D. I was going witht the 215s at first because I was afraid my 180 pump would need delivery valves to run the 370s. Joe said it should work just fine and any stumble would be very slight. Well, I have no stumble at all. I was driving around between 1000 to 1500 rpms trying to induce it and nothing. I love the way the TC and truck performs now. Not afraid to pull out with small gaps in traffic. Before I would wait for a big opening because of that 3 sec. lag. I know you are going to love the 370s.