Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Torque convertor lock-switch

[Dallass]

I have installed the lock-up switch per instrution in Issue 19, page 54 for my '98 Ram by connecting to the B11 (orange/black) wire to single on/off toggle switch. The switch works as it is suppost to. Then John Holms on page 56 said to cut B11 and use a SPDT. Then someone else on the forum said to use a single pole/three position toggle switch and cut the wire attached to PIN 54. Also installed the lock-up light that was in Issue 24, page 22. but the light works just the oppose. The light is on when the torque converter is not locked up and goes out when the torque converter locks up.

 

[mjoppie]

sounds like you got a little fancy on yours, i did the same to my 98 and belive it is the only reason its still driving, just used a simple on /off toggle switch and grounded it. works great, but it sounds like you might have sompthing backwards, not for sure but i was bored and figured id give my . 02

 

[Howard Durand]

I don't have the TDR issue you refer to so have no idea how they say the lockup light is supposed to be connected.

If you have a 12 volt light connected between the orange/black wire and ground, it will be on when the TC is off.

I use a multi pole 3 position switch so I can have the TC locked, unlocked or normal. One set of contacts controls the TC. Another set turns lights on and off using 12 volts from any switched circuit.

 

[Dallass]

Can you tell or show me how you hook up your 3 position switch and how you use it? Dallass

 

[Joe G.]

I think I understand what the confusion is after reading the article in TDR #24. The "on" side of the switch the writer refers to is the wire to the transmission. The red wire of the LED is attached to a positive voltage source. This should be the ignition on circuit. The other wire of the LED is attached to the wire to the transmission. When the TCC is not locked both wires will have 12 volts on them. When the TCC is locked the wire to the transmisson will have ground on it thus lighting the LED. This LED will be lit when the TCC is locked regardless of the source of the lockup control.

 

[Dallass]

Thank you, Joe G. That solved the problem with the LED to tell me that the TCC is locked up. Now how would the 3 position switch work different or better that the SPST switch that I now have installed?

 

[Joe G.]

The three position switch is better because it lets you force the TCC to stay unlocked. That is important in some situations where you have high EGT towing. Actually, the first version of the "mystery" switch was a SPST switch to force the TCC to stay unlocked to prevent lugging on pulls. Grounding the circuit with a switch to force it to stay locked was the next bright idea. The original circuit to do that used a SPDT with center off. With that switch you can have forced lock, forced unlock, and let the CPM do it. I use that plus a floor mounted push button (dome light switch) to force unlock for shifts or stopping.

 

[CATCRACKER]

dallass,



my switch works like your does. as you know this is just a reminder i have to tell myself this all the time dont leave it on

 

[Dallass]

How do I wire the switch? Do I cut the B11 wire and put the transmission side in the center and the PMC on one side of center and the ground on the other side of center? And how did you wire your floor mounted button?

 

[Joe G.]

That's the way to wire it. I put the floor button on the ground wire so that if I step on it the ground will open. It is for use when I have the TCC force locked. So if I stop I step on the button instead of flipping the switch. After I'm back up to speed I take my foot off the button. If I am in OD with the TCC locked and want to shift down I step on the floor button and press the OD lock out, let it shift, and then let off the floor button to lock up again. There is a picture of it in my Reader's Rigs gallery. The floor button is quick and handy if I slow down and forget to turn off the lockup switch.

 

[Crowhurst]

I find it dificult to tell when I have lock-up for e-braking, so I wish to fit the lock-up warning light. I have now obtained back-copy of issue 22, so I now know which LED to buy. From Joe G's posts ( Thank you, Joe, for your help on this forum) I know to connect the red LED wire to switched positive. ( The back of the cigar lighter?) The orange/black wire from my PCM has been cut, and the ends connected to yellow and blue wires for a BD Autolock. Does this affect the installation of the LED yellow wire? Can it still go into the orange/black wire close to the PCM, or should it be on the orange/black wire after the Autolock connections? Or is there no difference? A connection under the dash would save running wire to the PCM. Nick.

 

[Joe G.]

What you want to know is if there is a ground on the wire to the transmission. So you would hook up the LED wire to the connection to that wire. That is the orange/black wire going to the transmission instead of the orange/black wire from the PCM.

 

[Crowhurst]

Joe, thank you, that's just what I needed to know. Nick.

 

[LDPetersen]

I found a little grey box relay at work and got a old style dimmer foot switch. I mounted the relay, which has a small red indicator light on it , to the dash next to the steering post, near the turn signal lever area. When I step on the dimmer switch, tc locks up and red light comes on. I got sick of the toogle switch. Also the wife wanted a light to tell her when it is locked up. Those long trips when she has to drive ,she had a hard time remembering to shut if off for stop signs. I always liked the foot switch for dimming the headlight. I'm old enough to have had several cars and trucks that had them.

 

[Crowhurst]

LDPetersen, I agree entirely. With the left foot dimmer switch one could dip the headlamps while keeping both hands on the steering wheel. My 1959 Bedford CA Dormobile and my 1960 Morris Mini and all my fathers 1930's and 40's vehicles all had this. We have gone backwards in this respect. I wonder why. Nick.

 

[Dallass]

I have my switch wired up like do except for the foot switch. To be able to keep the TCC unlocked with the 5th wheel was god send going up hills. But when you can't start off in 1st gear is not. Do you think that the solenoids in the VB are giving me all the this trouble? Before they put in new governor solenoids this week, the transmission would work fine going thur the gears until I hooked up the 5th wheel trailer.

 

[JBlock]

I bet few people know what an old grey dimmer switch is. , my 42 packard has one too.