Torque plate position

[azgearpro]

Were is the stock position of the torque plate in relation to the pump. The reason I ask is I have a tst plate in, and want to make sure it is in the right position, thanks for your input



P. S. go d-baks

 

[HoleshotHolset]

Somebody that has installed their plate using the template that came in the kit could let you borrow theirs and make sure that it's centered in the right place.



Matt

 

[radixr]

Plate Template

The template only facilitates locating the TST plate in the same postion as the original plate during installation. As far as I know, there is no way to go back to the original location (once the plate has been moved) without taking the pump off and getting it calibrated by a pump shop.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

O. -K. , that seems a little odd.....



Matt

 

[DBR]

The only way that I know to find the stock position of the factory fuel plate is to look at the lock washer marks on the original fuel plate, that is if you still have it.



Radixr is very correct about the use of the template.



What I personally do to set my fuel plate position is to adjust accordingly to the exhaust gas temperature. I reference 1300 degrees as max, therefore I set the plate so that during my hardest pull towing I don't go over 1200 (sea level) This allows me a margin of 100 degrees when I'm above sea level, which is needed. This doesn't provide the best set of the pants fun, but it does keep your engine within, what I consider, acceptable operation parameters.



This is when additional modification other then fueling show their benefit (turbos, exhaust, injectors, etc. ). It is very easy to increase the fuel in the 12 valve, which is also a very easy way to get into trouble with Egts. These additional modifications allow for the same fuel plate to be run a little further up the fueling curve before getting into trouble, but not a whole lot more. The fuel plates from TST are designed to be run in the stock location to provide proper EGT control, except for the competition plates which are noted when purchasing. DBR

 

[cumminsgetme]

It's nothing to be overly concerned about. If your having egt problems then slide it back a little. Have you checked to see if there are any existing marks from your old plate? I wouldn't worry about it to much... . is there any reason why you want the plate back in exactly the stock position?

 

[SlyBones]

Slide the plate all the way back, then all the way forward. Observe positions. Then start 2/3's forward. If you are not having smoke/egt problems move it up . 020" increments. If you are having egt troubles slide it back in . 020" imcrements.



When Piers did mine he put scribe marks at the front of the plate. I always know where stock was/is. On my truck its seems roughly 2/3 forward of the overall plate movement.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

That's a good idea... I think I'm going to scribe mine before the 'stocker' comes out. I have a new plate headed for my pump in the near future... .



Matt

 

[Todd G]

I have one of those template things if you need to borrow it.

 

[dieselburner]

I put a very light scribe mark on mine before I loosened the stock plate. Now that seems like a long time and many mods ago... I currently have my #4 plate slid BACK about . 020" from stock and that helps the exhaust temps a little. I have never tried it slid all the way forward.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

All this talk of doing the 'slide it forward' stuff has me remembering the pump gurus talking about how if the rack travels too far it's damaging to the pump.

They do not recommend running without a plate, or pushing it ALL the way forward for this reason... . as things can go sour and ruin $1k worth of governor parts down below.

Me, personally... . I say if you have gauges and can control the 'soot pedal' with a reasonable amount of self-control... . go for it. Do whatever you can to get more power... . Just watch the EGT's and pray your driveline holds up. And if the pump does fail... get a new/rebuilt one that will put out MORE fuel.



Matt