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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Torque wrench for pinion seal change

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My shop manual calls for something like 400 ft lbs torque on the yoke: I don't have such a wrench; none of my friends have such a wrench; none of the auto parts stores I've tried have such a wrench; - what do you guys do?
 
Just mark the nut before you remove it and put it back the same or slightly tighter to make up for wear. That's what I did on my Dana 80 about 25K ago. Unless you have a wrench made up to hold the pinion, it's about impossible to torque anyway. You'll need a stong impact to get it loose. None of my 1/2" impacts would do it. Borrowed a 3/4" from work to get it. You need to fill in you're truck info so we know what you're driving.



Kim
 
Mine was leaking quite a bit at only 67k when I got the truck. I also marked the nut/shaft and used a 3/4 impact. You may also need a puller as the yoke is a light press fit. Mine has run fine since for probably about 190k or more.
 
Extend a breaker bar to 4 feet in length with a cheater pipe, apply 100 lbs of force to the pipe at 4 feet from the nut and you have 400 ft lbs of torque.
 
Most shops use an impact gun. You are not supposed to reuse the nut, but if you do (and lots do) use some blue locktight on it. You will need a 2 jaw puller to get the yoke off the splined shaft. Make sure and use sealer around the new seal and check level on diff after you are done. I just did mine a couple of month's ago and it took me about 45 mins, and 2 beers on our hoist while BSing and watching TV. :)
 
Gun it down with an impact gun, or if your close to Mountain Home, you can borrow my big torque wrench, goes up to 1000ft/lbs.
 
I've got a 3/4" that maxes out at 400 ft. lbs. and another that goes to 600 ft. lbs. I wouldn't think that it would be that hard to find someone that owns one.



Gus
 
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