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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) total brake failure!

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Computer won't Scan

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) still no power

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Ok I was towing my 5000 pound trailer when I noticed the brakes were starting to feel a little bit spongy. By the time I got to the bottom of the hill I had totaly lost my brakes. The only thing that stoped me was the trailer brakes and the E-Brake. I nursed It Along and by the time I got home the brakes were back to normal. They seem to be fine Now. Any Ideas Would be very welcome. Thanks
 
Check your wheel hub bearings. When they wear they allow the caliper to wiggle open causing the pedal to go right to the floor when depressed. To get brakes back you have to pump the calipers closed just like after changing your pads. It has happened to me before and is definitely a possibility.



Junior
 
Thanks for the response. I Suspect THe abs Also. The brakes do come back when I pump them, eventually. The Brake Light and The Abs light came on during the problem. But now that the brakes work again the lights went off.
 
When was the last time your brake fluid was changed?

Brake fluid attracts moisture, when the brakes get hot such as on a long downhill the water boils basically acting like air in the lines.
 
Definitely flush out the old fluid if it's the original. If the problem was in the ABS system it would set a code that would illuminate your ABS and brake warning lights. The warning lights will stay on for 50 engine on/off cycles or until the code is reset. It's DC's way of making sure you take care of an all important brake problem.
 
The ABS and BRAKE lights came on during the problem. After I shut the engine down then started it back up the lights were off. Will there still be a memory of the code or do I need to wait for the lights to come back on?
 
I'd start with what illflem suggested. The problem probably was you overheated the brakes and boiled the fluid. This will turn on both the brake and ABS lights.



Old fluid full of moisture or a dragging caliper will contribute to this type of failure. The factory Dodge pads are pretty good, for replacements I use the Carbon Metalic brand.



Cheap pads will cause "brake fade" which is an overheating of the pads. This causes the pad material binder to give off gas and this eliminates the friction between the pad and rotor. The pedal might feel a little spongy but the brake lights don't light up.
 
Can anyone tell me what size thread the brake bleeder is on the 96 Dodge Ram 2500. I am thinking about changing all of the bleeder to Russel Speed Bleeders. And I'm to lazy to look it up in the Manual.



I am going to be changing my brake fluid real soon, I had a real hard time depressing the brake pedal the other day after some stop and go driving. After the truck sat for a couple of hours all was good. I suspect the fluid has absorbed some moisture.



Thanks



Don
 
I have personally boiled my fluid once. I was up on a Mountain, letting a girlfriend and her kids coast down a very long road that went to the bottom. I was unloaded, and apparently had my foot on the brake for most of the time. At the bottom of the hill, after loading the bikes, I went to put the truck in drive and the pedal hit the floor.



Pretty freaking scary. I crawled out in 4x4 low, and after about an hour all was fine. I replaced the fluid the next day and haven't had a problem in at least 4 years. (knock on wood)

Rich
 
The threads on the front axle bleeders are 10mm - 1. 50 pitch, The rears are 1/4" 1. 25 pitch. The reference I found on Russel Speed bleeder at Summit Racing had the rears at 8mm -1. 25 pitch.



When I was attempting to bleed my brakes I had to completely remove the bleeders because they where rusted, and the bleed holes, where filled with rust.



Don't let your brake fluid go to long, I had great brakes until, about a week ago, and they got spongy. From now on I'm doing mine every two years.



Good Luck



Don
 
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